Question about Hino 338

Tobster317 · Apr 15, 2017

I had my done. By a Hino only shop. Be careful. You will find a lot of post on here with mechanics TRYING to work on Hinos that had no success. To be honest I DH to Greasy shop about 2 times a year. I've DH 600 miles just to get to VA. It will cost you an easy 2-3K depending on what else you do. I did. Injector cups and O rings, fuel return line, rocker box gasket, valve cover gasket, oil cooler o rings and adjusted the valves. There are some crazy screws and other screws/gaskets that have to be replaced they shouldn't be reused. My Hino is a 2007 338 w/820K miles. Yours is newer so I'm sure it's a little different.

Hino123 · Apr 15, 2017

I have been working on Hino's for 30+ hours a week for almost 10 years. I have replaced 1 water pump for a coolant pushing issue, I cant count the # of headgaskets I have replaced. It could also be Injector cups but.... I always replace the cups when I replace the headgasket. I know you probably don't want to hear this but...99% its the head gasket.
As greasytshirt mentioned re sealing the oil cooler would also be a good idea if you have the headgasket replaced Its probably leaking at the top Lh corner anyway. Its an extra hr or two labor, 3- orings and some sealer. You will need to remove the turbo, and essentially the complete rh side of the engine to get to it, so a re-seal while you already have it off is good insurance.
I might also add take it to a shop who knows how to work on hinos. If they dont know what there doing, or have axcess to the correct info you mind as well light some $ on fire. Torque on internals is absoloutley critical, to make it more confusing the original service manuals have incorrect torque specs littered througout the manuals. Finally ...REPLACE the fuel return line under the valve cover. This the "squiggly" line that returns fuel to the tank from the injectors. You may be tempted to re use it cuz "it looks fine" but dont. It is extremly flexible and if it leaks you just lost that engine. Its easy for me to spend your $ but thats my 2 cents. Good luck.

artice · May 7, 2017

I have a 2012 338 and the running light on the passenger rear works but the drivers side does not. All other functions (turn signal, brake, and hazard) work on both sides. Is this most probably a relay problem or a broken wire? (I have read that the power crosses over from the right light to the left in earlier models...Is this true for the 2012?)
Thanks in advance.

greasytshirt · May 7, 2017

artice said:
I have a 2012 338 and the running light on the passenger rear works but the drivers side does not. All other functions (turn signal, brake, and hazard) work on both sides. Is this most probably a relay problem or a broken wire? (I have read that the power crosses over from the right light to the left in earlier models...Is this true for the 2012?)
Thanks in advance.

Yes, the wiring does cross over. You're going to want to look for corrosion in sockets and connectors, for bad previous repairs, and for breaks in wiring anywhere. If you're not sure if the bulbs are good, swap them side to side.

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artice · May 8, 2017

Thanks for the help GTS ...as it turned out there WAS power on the drivers side as well...it was the wrong Trucklite replacement that was installed (by the dealer, would you believe?)...they used an 'H11' which is 'stop and turn only' according to the text right on the part...the original part is an 'H13' . I am all good to go now...Thanks for your speedy reply...great to have you around to bounce stuff off of...It makes working on my beastie a lot less intimidating...

artice · Jun 3, 2017

Can anyone tell me the recommended gap between the ABS sensors and the rotor on my beast (2012-338)?
I had a lot of rust on the rotor and was getting an ABS light once in a while...I have cleaned the sensors and most of the rust...
Thanks in advance.

Hino123 · Jun 3, 2017

FLUSH is the spec, If you have juice brakes just tap them (sensors) lightly on the back of the sensor with a rubber mallet until they bottom out. If your rotors get rusty you can remove the two bolts for the sensor bracket and clean the tone ring with a wire-brush and a pick. This will buy you some time from replacing the rotors. I see you have done that already.
Driving these with the ABS light on overheats the transmission and causes your fluid to get burnt/thin and a host of other transmission problems. Extensive driving with the ABS light on is not recommended (if you have an Allison transmission). If it is just the sensor gap setting a fault code the light should go out when the truck is driven over 20-25 mph. FYI

artice · Jun 3, 2017

Thank you, I will tap them in...
On the subject of when the light goes on... it does almost always stay off at higher speeds and will come on once the speed drops to 20-25 mph. I knew about the tranny issue so I pulled over and shut the engine down...but since I needed to get back to the shop, a few minutes later I started it up and the light was off so I tried to drive it...as long as my speed was over 40mph it stayed off, but if I had to stop at an intersection it almost always came on again...so I shut it down and repeated the process till I got back to the shop...I will admit that a few times when I restarted it, the light would still be on, but would go out once I was going about 10mph...but as before, once my speed dropped, I would have to shut down/restart to get the light to go off...I did limit my driving time with the light on...hopefully I did not do too much damage to the Allison tranny...I will check the tranny fluid...
Thanks again 123

artice · Jun 5, 2017

Tapped them in with rubber mallet...ran it all day with no ABS light...NICE!
I only run this truck 3-4 days a week on average...could this be a contributing factor to the rust formation? What are the things(if any) that I should be on the look-out for on a truck that is so lightly used? I bought it in 2014 with 36,000Miles on it (2012-338) and it now has 84,000 Miles ...
Thanks again.

greasytshirt · Jun 5, 2017

artice said:
Tapped them in with rubber mallet...ran it all day with no ABS light...NICE!
I only run this truck 3-4 days a week on average...could this be a contributing factor to the rust formation? What are the things(if any) that I should be on the look-out for on a truck that is so lightly used? I bought it in 2014 with 36,000Miles on it (2012-338) and it now has 84,000 Miles ...
Thanks again.

It's time for a burner maintenance. It needs a minor service every 75k and a major one every 150k.

Hino123 · Jun 6, 2017

I attched a recommended maint sheet for your vewing pleasure

artice · Nov 9, 2017

Hello again...Newbie here...My parking brake needs to be tightened on my 2012 338...I searched the forum for related posts and found the 2007 338 posts...is the adjustment to be found in the same place as the 2007? If not can you please tell me where it is and any recommended steps to adjust it properly?
Thank you.

greasytshirt · Nov 9, 2017

artice said:
Hello again...Newbie here...My parking brake needs to be tightened on my 2012 338...I searched the forum for related posts and found the 2007 338 posts...is the adjustment to be found in the same place as the 2007? If not can you please tell me where it is and any recommended steps to adjust it properly?
Thank you.

If it doesn't have air brakes, it's first adjusted at the parking brake drum, if there's an adjuster present. There are a number of cable/drum/handle combinations out there. Is the parking brake drum on the back of the transmission, or the front of the rear end?

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artice · Nov 9, 2017

Thanks for the speedy reply.
Hydraulic brakes...and the drum is on the front of the rear end.

greasytshirt · Nov 10, 2017

artice said:
Thanks for the speedy reply.
Hydraulic brakes...and the drum is on the front of the rear end.

Ok. There's an adjuster at the brake drum. If the cable is adjusted correctly, the drum adjustment is the only one you'll have to do. Same for the handle adjustment.

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Hinohino247 · Feb 24, 2020

Hello, I own a 2008 hino 338 and I am trying to do a force Regen. I am looking for a code reader that can help me with that. I have tried the Nexas code reader but it says it is not supported. Is there a device that works with J1989? Thank you

boxtruck5 · Feb 5, 2024

TruckAllOver said:
Hi, I have been reading this thread about Hino trucks in search for a solution to a engine problem I'm experiencing with a 2008 Hino 338.
I'm directing the inquiry to greasytshirt.
The low coolant alarm will sound when two things occur, drive for at least 50 miles at normal highway speeds, make a turn to the right, like going on an interstate off ramp that makes a 180 degree turn on to secondary road. The alarm will come On during the turn and then go Off when the truck is no longer in the turn. Engine temperature has remained normal and there has not been any over heating issues.
I have replaced the alarm sensor and radiator cap, cleaned the radiator and tranny cooler fins of any debris and the problem still occurs.
In an effort to continue looking for a solution to the alarm problem, I tried doing the following.

I topped off the radiator by pulling coolant from the coolant reservoir till the radiator was completely full.
I placed a mark on the coolant reservoir tank at the level of the coolant after topping off the radiator. This is what I have observed about the alarm and coolant level. If I drive short distances, 5,10,15,25,40 miles the coolant level comes back to the mark I placed on the reservoir tank after the engine cools completely.
If I drive a greater distance like 50 miles and up the alarm will sound on the right turn as described above, and the coolant reservoir is about an inch or slightly more after the engine is completely cool.
Ultimately I believe this alarm problem is a hint to a bigger problem developing , do you know what that might be? Thanks for any help you can provide.

What was the solution to your problem ?