Murraycroexp
Veteran Expediter
I've heard this can be as little a problem as a deteriorated O-ring on the oil pump assy. Even an EO guy had this issue.
Putting a Isuzu diesel n Chevy cube.
- Thread starter takemall
- Start date
I've heard this can be as little a problem as a deteriorated O-ring on the oil pump assy. Even an EO guy had this issue.
Both Billg27 and I had this problem. It was an O-ring and small gasket that got brittle on the oil pick up tube. Mine was the 6.0 with 600,000 some miles. I believe Bill has the 4.3.
Guys it was knocking pretty bad. Pulled oil pan and changed the o ring around the top of the pickup tube. Put back together and still no oil pressure. So I could go ahead and pull the whole front of the body off and change the oil pump and hope for the best or just go ahead and do the heart transplant.
KickStarter6
Veteran Expediter
That's a sign of a good healthy engine lol
Mine is the 4.8 and I did replace the O ring and gasket at about 330,000 miles. My tech also found that the oil pressure bypass relief valve was stuck partly depressed. That was allowing oil to dump back into the pan and keeping the oil pressure low. As far as the knock, a lot of these newer GM engines have some piston slap. Never heard yours but it is common even on low mileage engines.
mugurpe
Seasoned Expediter
here are the issues I see with this:
I have two trucks, same basic truck, one has a SBC the other the 4cyl isuzu, the isuzu engine sticks out farther behind the cabover cab, and looks a good bit taller. that could cause major fitment issues in a cutvan engine bay. V8s tend to be wider and lower than straight engines, though ford was putting straight sixes into van engine bays well into the late 90s I think, just measure twice before you start cutting.
the cost of engine swaps is rarely the actual driveline, it's all the collateral damage. re-routing things, making stuff fit, fabricating linkages, etc. If you've swapped drivelines before, you probably know that, if not, this doesn't sound like the one to start on. Lots of odd things that may or may not work right out of the box could kill you. Fuel pump? fuel tank? Brake booster? ABS?
getting it inspected is going to be a nightmare unless you know someone. And then you'll still have to worry about some crafty trooper noticing the swap. In the state of MA you're required to have the truck inspected by a trooper for re-titling after an engine swap that isn't just an "insert part #XXXXX here sort of swap. Determining and PROVING the swap is safe where it's going to be hard. Any DOT people are going to want proof.
I doubt you'll get 20mpg, We get 12 or so with our small isuzu cabover.
There might be unanticipated wiring and electrical issues. Modern computer controlled cars can be a bit crazy. There are lots of electrical gizmos all over the truck that might need the ecm plugged in... lots of subsystems. Many are going to be required by law to work as they where orig equipment. AC, ABS, etc. They may sound simple, but if they're computer controlled at all, it could be a battle. Newer powerplants into older vehicles is easier than older powerplants into newer vehicles due to the computer stuff.
But... if you pull it off it'll be an epic swap, no doubt about it. Make sure you take lots of pictures of the process, it'll be cool.
I have two trucks, same basic truck, one has a SBC the other the 4cyl isuzu, the isuzu engine sticks out farther behind the cabover cab, and looks a good bit taller. that could cause major fitment issues in a cutvan engine bay. V8s tend to be wider and lower than straight engines, though ford was putting straight sixes into van engine bays well into the late 90s I think, just measure twice before you start cutting.
the cost of engine swaps is rarely the actual driveline, it's all the collateral damage. re-routing things, making stuff fit, fabricating linkages, etc. If you've swapped drivelines before, you probably know that, if not, this doesn't sound like the one to start on. Lots of odd things that may or may not work right out of the box could kill you. Fuel pump? fuel tank? Brake booster? ABS?
getting it inspected is going to be a nightmare unless you know someone. And then you'll still have to worry about some crafty trooper noticing the swap. In the state of MA you're required to have the truck inspected by a trooper for re-titling after an engine swap that isn't just an "insert part #XXXXX here sort of swap. Determining and PROVING the swap is safe where it's going to be hard. Any DOT people are going to want proof.
I doubt you'll get 20mpg, We get 12 or so with our small isuzu cabover.
There might be unanticipated wiring and electrical issues. Modern computer controlled cars can be a bit crazy. There are lots of electrical gizmos all over the truck that might need the ecm plugged in... lots of subsystems. Many are going to be required by law to work as they where orig equipment. AC, ABS, etc. They may sound simple, but if they're computer controlled at all, it could be a battle. Newer powerplants into older vehicles is easier than older powerplants into newer vehicles due to the computer stuff.
But... if you pull it off it'll be an epic swap, no doubt about it. Make sure you take lots of pictures of the process, it'll be cool.
KickStarter6
Veteran Expediter
He said there wasn't a computer, so that won't be an issue. Also a cube is smaller than a cab over, weighs less and possibly more aerodynamic. Not to mention its possible the existing computer could still operate that abs and etc. The engine management system is different that the entire computer system. If not there are aftermarket companies that build units that would work for this application. Size could be an issue but the other points you mention don't seem applicable for this swap
Got the engine bay ready to go today. Everyone I've talked to said that the original ecm will still control the major operating systems. The Isuzu diesel will fit the height of the engine bay. This engine only requires 4 wires to run. I've done many v8 conversions from ecm cars to the older small block chevys and everything worked out. This swap should be done by the 2nd week of Feb.
KickStarter6
Veteran Expediter
Cool. I'm looking forward to the results once that suckers on the road
Other than fit I would check the weight. Most diesels are almost twice as heavy. You might need to upgrade the front end. DEFINITYLY, REPLACE THE TIE RODS, AND UPGRADE THE BRAKES!!
In most cases you wont win a drag race, but I'm sure the torque will give it a nice punchy feel.
Diesels are built to work in the low rpm range so by 1500 - 2000 rpm you're done. If mileage is an issue you can put taller gears in the rear axle or even better swap the rear axle so you know the diff can handle the torque. Whatever you do keep the axles until the truck is certified by your state DMV and especially the drive axle in case the one on your cube goes Chernobyl on you. I also suggest if you keep the original Chevy axle you install a temp gauge so you know the drive axle is happy, excess heat will destroy the drive axle.
Scrap is down again I would say you will make better money parting the carcass out if you don't want to DIY the part out you can always work something out with a mechanic. The truck box might make for good storage shed or man cave. 15-16 ft in working condition can bring in 1 to 3 grand depending on condition and specs.
rest of truck depending on its condition. LKQ truck parts has a website so you can have an idea of what the parts are worth so you can make a few bucks and offer a decent deal.
Good luck
Bob Wolf.
So what's the verdict?
Sent from my flying circus ....
Sent from my flying circus ....
zorry
Veteran Expediter
He's behind schedule. Just a hunch.
Driveshaft is being cut and balanced at the machine shop. This thing has really been a lot of work and fabricating. Had to make a tranny support as the Isuzu mounts from the top and the gm mounted on the bottom. More work than I thought it would have been but its going to get done. I have a pic of the engine bay but don't know how to post it. Plenty of room left in there also.