Problem found

[RETIDEPXE]

Nice job. Thats as good as a duct tape repair. Im sure you limited how much you used but where you not concerned it would travel thru the rest of the air system?
How did you get into or keep it in just the sleeper side of the system?

Granted it was a pin hole of a leak. I pulled the spring out, couldn't find a replacement without ordering one, so I thought I'd give it a try. Squirted straight into the top, hooked the air line back up and shot some air into it and rolled it around to the hole. Plugged it right up. Disconnected, poor out the excess and mounted it up. I have done away with the sleeper leveler valve because it was causing my air pump to run too much with todays rough roads, I found it kept airing up and releasing air as we traveled, the valve did not leak at a stand still. I have a manual air switch on the dash along with the switch for my Donvel airsprings on the front. The Slime has never come back up stream or showed up anywhere.

AS a side note, I tried patching a hole in one of my Donvels and the hole wouldn't patch as it was just a bit too large.

Not a permanent fix but had me going in a tight, and still going.

 

[layoutshooter]

We used wire ties to finifh the load and get to a shop.

 

[Doggie Daddy]

It blew out. No "slime" for me. Don't think it is a good idea. I am all for fixing a problem once and be done with it.

Like those AMU's, sorry....couldn't resist.

Sent from my DROID BIONIC using EO Forums

 

[RETIDEPXE]

Like those AMU's, sorry....couldn't resist.

Sent from my DROID BIONIC using EO Forums

Good one Doggie D.

Some shade tree fixes are better then new, 'course, using Slime may not be one of them, and I'd never recommend Slime in a CMV tire. But the use of a carpenters clamp on the bank of AMU's when reinstalling has seemed to fix mine, I just researched and it's been 295K mi.s/2 yrs since replacing my last one, and that was the brake light switch (no air leak). The last air leaking AMU (barking brake AMU) was changed out 465K mi.s/3 yrs ago, which is the first time I tried clamping them when installing.

Here's another fix for all you FL owners with pwr mirror motor mounts cracked to pieces. Pull the glass from the housing (small pry holes for this). Get an $8 can of Bondoglass from Wally world and plant that motor in it's proper place with a nice glob of it being careful not to clog up the motor stop on the back of the motor and the wheel's movement. Mix a little more and work it behind the corners of the motor for new screw mounts. Let it dry, drill out the holes and install screws. Reinstall glass. Hey, doesn't look real nice, but since it's inside the housing, can't see it with the glass on anyway. Walla, better then new in my book. My wife always said I was cheap, but $300 mirrors, I'm just sayin.

Disclaimer; Use advice at your own risk. Regardless of what it sounds like, our truck is not held together with bondo, carpenter clamps and Slime and we take pride in the appearance and working order of it. You can eat on the motor and inside our box, you would want to square dance on the floor. I use Zainostore.com products on the paint, best there is. Just wanted to make that clear 'case ur wonderin.