Big Truck Please help with dpr issue

Yaazza · Aug 1, 2019

P141f is the code i keep getting since i started working on the hino 2012 truck..i changed the dpf filter after i saw lot of dark and sometimes white smoke coming out of it.,the igniters are new and so is the nozzle and flame sensor..it worked fine when i changed the dpf but now it's back with failed regen and the code stated above plus another code p2030 under BCU..today i even changed thermo sensor and gas sensor and temp sensor to no avail..i tried the regen and stayed the wole time like that unfinished..i also could erase the codes but 141f is back.
Upon forced regen using the dx2 i noticed dpr exhaust gas temp [in] was stuck at 32f when i changed the sensors today and attempted regen it was stuck at 152f ..i know something is wrong when i amell some fuel burning time to time ..
I really hope you guys gonna help me figure this out..
Thank you very much..

Hino123 · Aug 2, 2019

What codes other than the P141F, and P2030. Am I correct in assuming you have a copy of DX2. Have you ever performed a 150k burner maint.? How many miles?

Yaazza · Aug 2, 2019

Thank you for the reply Sir,
The odometer reads 97600 and yes it went through a burner maintenance already and all components were replaced..i use hino dx2 indeed..i can send you all the pictures if you want ..i already tried posting them here but the forym days they are too big of a size to be uploaded..
Thanks a lot again

Hino123 · Aug 2, 2019

Ok so reguarding the sensor reading on the 11-13 models the burner outlet sensor does not read correctly. In 2014 they fixed the issue. I honestly never look at individual temps other than flame temp because I use the graphing macros. It basically imports all the regen data and generates a graph. I may have you graph a regen and send it to me but let’s start simple. Have you cleaned the burner orifice and checked the mantle? See attached pics for the orifice. It gets gummed up with goo and creates regen issues due to low air flow in the combustion chamber. Remove the orifice, clean it and the hole on the burner. Then stick a poker screwdriver or similar tool I. The small hole until it hits the metal stop. That is the mantle. The spec for mantle depth is 3/4 of an in or 22mm from the face of the orifice. It should be SOLID and make a tinging noise when you hit it with your screwdriver. Depth is not as critical as it being solid. If all this checks out. I may have you create a PDF of your burner event log and send it to me. Inspect the mantle and let me know if you know how to access the burner event log in dx2.

Yaazza · Aug 3, 2019

The orifice cleaning is what i could not do because even though i tried to heat the area with torch trying to unscrew it i still could not get the screw to unmount the hose..i felt it would snap or break..i honestly do not know how to get a burner event and i would appreciate if you can help me Sir ..i heard that the injectors might be faulty too especially with the injection quantity at 7.33 mm3/st but i would wait on that while it is a costly job..
Thanks a lot again for your time and for the help

Yaazza · Aug 3, 2019

Yaazza · Aug 3, 2019

I took this shot after 30 minutes of dpr regen..the dpr exhaust temp is not ok nor is the injection quantity

Hino123 · Aug 4, 2019

Ok a few things I need. In need you to 100% verify the mantle is not cracked and the orifice is not plugged. The 1 3/8 adapter fitting is tight, but it will come out. I use a 1 3/8 deep socket on a breaker bar and a cheater pipe to get them out. They are stiff,but you won't break anything. That orifice has to be clean and the mantle checked. The injection quantity.. I never perform regens like that, and personally do not use the data to make a diagnosis. Not to say that you cant, there are just better ways. With a set of new fuel filters on warm the engine to at least 176 degrees, Monitor the injection quantity at idle 780 rpm for 1 min and record the inj quantity. Then run the engine at 980 rpm (exhaust brake off) and record the inj quantity, then with the engine still at 980 rpm pull on the exhaust brake until the reading stabilizes, and record. Send me the 3 readings. If your injectors are injecting more fuel at idle than at 980 then your injectors are over fueling. You SHOULD in theory use less fuel at idle then at 980. Burner event log. When connecting to the truck select BCU, when connected to truck in in the BCU menu select "inspection menu" open the menu and it should show 2 options atomization test and "Burner event log". open the burner event log and it will start reading data. this sometimes take s 5 min or so. Then once the green bar graph has moved all the way to the right it will say "complete" or something like that. Close the window, then go to the 3 hyperlinks on the rh side of the screen. Select print,and this will open the event log. It is usually 28-40 pages. If you can, save the file as a pdf and send it to me. If you do not have a PDF writer you can get one for free on the internet. I use Cute pdf righter. If you can get me this data I can help. I also would like you to send me your vin.

Yaazza · Aug 6, 2019

Hino123 said:
Ok so reguarding the sensor reading on the 11-13 models the burner outlet sensor does not read correctly. In 2014 they fixed the issue. I honestly never look at individual temps other than flame temp because I use the graphing macros. It basically imports all the regen data and generates a graph. I may have you graph a regen and send it to me but let’s start simple. Have you cleaned the burner orifice and checked the mantle? See attached pics for the orifice. It gets gummed up with goo and creates regen issues due to low air flow in the combustion chamber. Remove the orifice, clean it and the hole on the burner. Then stick a poker screwdriver or similar tool I. The small hole until it hits the metal stop. That is the mantle. The spec for mantle depth is 3/4 of an in or 22mm from the face of the orifice. It should be SOLID and make a tinging noise when you hit it with your screwdriver. Depth is not as critical as it being solid. If all this checks out. I may have you create a PDF of your burner event log and send it to me. Inspect the mantle and let me know if you know how to access the burner event log in dx2.

Yaazza · Aug 6, 2019

I finally got the hose out and i cleaned the orrifice..it was clogged indeed ..i used pressurized air to clean the hose and brake cleaner sprayed through the orrifice and brushed good..i even checked the mantle as you said..i drove a screw driver through it and it was solid while it made a solid noise upon hitting it..what i noticed is the igniters were still drenched wet with fuel when i took them out and also the flame sensor was wet also..i cleaned them all and put them back again..tomorrow i will attempt the regen again and i hope it goes well..i will pm you the vin number and i would like to immensly thank you for the great help and support you have given so far Sir..
Thanks a lot

Hino123 · Aug 6, 2019

Ok great, did you ever get a chance to look at the burner event log? I got the vin and will check a few things tomorrow on my work laptop.

Yaazza · Aug 7, 2019

I will try tomorrow..thank you for reminding me..
So i did forced regen today..the first one took about 40 minutes ..finished successfully but with a check engine on..the dtc was p141f and p2030..i did a reset to dpr settings..urea..and attempted another regen after i cleared the codes..this time the forced regen ended in about 11 minutes successfully with no check engine light on..what are your thoughts please..
Thank you again..

Hino123 · Aug 7, 2019

The P141F is a generic code for a burner issue. The P2030 code essentially could be anything with the burner system, AIr, fuel, spark.i t needs all 3 or it will misfire. Get that burner event log and it will hopefully give me a little more to go by than just a P2030 code.