Overhead Windows leaking

Slo-Ride · Mar 1, 2011

It took a lil less then 4 years of service but they finally started to leak..I am talking about the tear drop shaped windows on top of the Aluim-bunk sleeper. Nothing really visible or obvious from the ground looking up at them..L/window is leaking near L/bottom,,R/window is leaking near R/bottom corners inside,,the wall covering is soaked in those areas only..
I have kept all seals treated with Armour-all since day 1,,,I dont see any dry rot or shrinkage in them.

What I wanna know is if anyone has come up with a repair for this without just smearing a bunch of caulking around the window seals . Is there a way to inject a sealant up inside the rubber seal and glass edges?
Im cheap and cant afford a flat tire right now so I dont wanna take it to a glass shop..

(I did somewhat a search but only came up with the topic of sleeper floors,carpet and dog pee

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layoutshooter · Mar 1, 2011

I have found NOTHING that will keep an Alum-I-Junk sleeper from leaking for more than a couple of years. They don't only leak around the windows. They leak where there is nothing to leak through. I had roof more or less stripped, resealed and repainted a little over two years ago. It is starting to leak again.

Slo-Ride · Mar 1, 2011

You always have such good news bout these alumni junk sleepers

Just sitting here looking at it from the inside thinking Ill have to strip the interior trim off to actually see where problem is. Its either the window leaking or the metal panel the window is cut into??

layoutshooter · Mar 1, 2011

Slo-Ride said:
You always have such good news bout these alumni junk sleepers
Just sitting here looking at it from the inside thinking Ill have to strip the interior trim off to actually see where problem is. Its either the window leaking or the metal panel the window is cut into??

I don't have those windows on mine. Mine leaks everyplace that something was cut into the fiberglass AND where the fiberglass cap attaches to the aluminum body.

Don't forget all of the flaking paint caused by the lack of proper prep and primer work.

Look at new seals. I doubt you can fix it any other way.

greg334 · Mar 1, 2011

Apparently no one has read my article on rebuilding Bentz sleepers.

You have two options, one is a quick fix and the other works for a long long time.

Here is the other one that works for a long long time ...

1 - remove the window. Clean around the window.

2 - use GE Silicone II Paintalbe Caulking - the FLEXIBLE one.

3 - put a thin bead about 1/4 wide on the window and another on the sleeper then install the window. PUT the hardware that holds the window on and tighten it down - let it sit for at least TWO hours and then test for leaks with a water hose or a bucket of water. If it leaks (I doubt it at this point), take some caulking and seal it with a Popsicle stick.

4 - reinstall everything.

While you have the panels off, you should re-insulate the sleeper, get rid of any wet wood, crappy fiberglass batten or cardboard used in the paneling to prevent mold from growing.

THIS is as much a common problem with AB as it is with Bentz but Bentz junk is what I own and I have done maybe 50 windows to fix leaks.

Slo-Ride · Mar 2, 2011

No Greg, I didn't read or see it,Sorry
I searched leaks,,windows,,sleepers,,and a few other words but kept coming up with the topic of the old smelly dog living in the sleeper.

I think my windows are held in place by the gaskets only.I don't think there is any fasteners? I have put in countless amounts of these windows in redi-mix trucks and never enjoyed it,not fun to get that gasket & glass in place,never enjoyed that job.
What your describing is kinda what I wanted to avoid.I'm sure its the best fix. I'm thinking if there is a way to inject a sealant into the glass & gasket area without making a big smeared up mess, it maybe worth a try.Not worried about getting sealant on the glass,it should scrape off,I worry bout possible paint damage. Ive been thinking of this for the last 650 miles and need to come up with something the size of a hot glue gun, Something I can lift-up gasket and lay a clean bead down.Im sure with a big old caulking gun I would have it smeared everwhere.

What was the quick fix? Or please point me to the thread if ya remember where it is.Thanks

cjmitch · Mar 2, 2011

I don't know a lot about those type sleepers but why could you slightly pull back the out side of the gasket and gently squeeze some chalking and just seal it up that way. It may not be able to work but just a thought. Like I said I dont know much about fixing window leaks. If I did I would not have one leaking on the door of my truck.

Slo-Ride · Mar 2, 2011

cjmitch said:
I don't know a lot about those type sleepers but why could you slightly pull back the out side of the gasket and gently squeeze some chalking and just seal it up that way. It may not be able to work but just a thought. Like I said I dont know much about fixing window leaks. If I did I would not have one leaking on the door of my truck.

Without knowing what Gregs quick fix is,Im thinking that is what he is talking about. With this size of glass and kinda floating in place inside the rubber glass I can see why it can only a temporary fix..I dont believe a regular caulk gun or squeeze tube will force it in far enough to fill any voids to make it a more ridged mount.There is two sealing surfaces if I am looking at it correctly. Sealant needs to get to the outside metal frame and also inside the glass area. This style glass and mount is meant to be very tight to keep glass from moving inside the gasket and the gasket held tight to the rough opening. Maybe a regular caulk gun will work??I was looking for answers as to what ppl may have tried in the past. As soon as I get to the house and my ladder I will try something. Just don't know what yet and how temporary it will be??
Maybe it will be as easy as a caulk gun or squezze tube of something,,as long as it works and a clean repair I will be happy.
Seen to many windows out here with sealant smeared everywhere and they look like crap

wannatruck · Mar 2, 2011

Duct tape? Seriously.....you can get it colored so it doesn't stand out so bad, and throw it on there? I don't know. Replacing the gasket is a pita, but would do the job right.

greg334 · Mar 2, 2011

Slo,
You can still use the same process, the tube is sealed and you have to cut the end off, just cut the end small and as mentioned pull the rubber up slide the tip under it, slo and steady when putting the sealant in.

I did a few like those but I always removed them out of the sleeper top.

By the way Layout, if you have seem leaks like where the top meets the bottom, you can seal it up with this stuff too. It takes about two days to do the work with the top right.