Noob Tire Rotation

Ragman · Mar 23, 2019

brokcanadian said:
Nope. Process? I jack up one side and swap tires, then do the other...

No criss cross ?

brokcanadian · Mar 23, 2019

I don't. I had a reason years ago but forgot what it was...directional tread maybe

guido4475 · Mar 24, 2019

brokcanadian said:
Just remember to zero your torque wrench after. Really does make a difference over time

Its amazing how many dont check the torque on their lug nuts on a weekly basis. I do check the air pressure in the tires as well with a good tire gauge.

dalscott · Mar 24, 2019

Moot said:
I agree. I always tell them when I check in that I run 60 psi front and 80 psi rear. I think no matter what they tend to go by the manufacturer's rating. Also that I want them to use their little magic wizardly thing to reset each tire because my Transit's TPS doesn't reset after driving. Slight inconveniences but in my opinion still the best national tire chain.

I feel sorry for the workers there. They open the doors first thing and they are open all day. Even if it’s ten degrees outside. At least when I was a tire buster in my younger days, we’d open the door, pull the vehicle in and close the door. At least we were reasonably comfortable.

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Moot · Mar 24, 2019

brokcanadian said:
Nope. Process? I jack up one side and swap tires, then do the other...

Jacking up one side at a time never occurred to me. Do you jack up the front, insert jack stand and then do the rear on the same side? The Transit being a unibody has specific lift points and none are on the outside, center. Also to get enough clearance to remove the tires seems like a tall van would be close to the tipping point. My Transit has two starting batteries, two 6 volt house batteries and a 25 gallon fuel tank all on the driver's side.

brokcanadian · Mar 24, 2019

Yes and I use a fullsize hi lift jack (not the factory crap) and the sprinter jacking points; its a unibody as well with the problems that brings

My other jack does not fit the jacking points, but I resorted to front: lower control arm and rear: strongest point of differential with wood block to spread load and prevent galling (forward of differential cover it bends!)

I place jackstand in recess in front control arm, and near to outside wheel on differential as a safety in case it falls off the jack

(Ok I admit; on the road I use my lighter normal jack that doesn't fit the lifting points, and use the logic, if it holds the body up normally I can jack it higher)

guido4475 · Mar 24, 2019

brokcanadian said:
Yes and I use a fullsize hi lift jack (not the factory crap) and the sprinter jacking points; its a unibody as well with the problems that brings

My other jack does not fit the jacking points, but I resorted to front: lower control arm and rear: strongest point of differential with wood block to spread load and prevent galling (forward of differential cover it bends!)

I place jackstand in recess in front control arm, and near to outside wheel on differential as a safety in case it falls off the jack

(Ok I admit; on the road I use my lighter normal jack that doesn't fit the lifting points, and use the logic, if it holds the body up normally I can jack it higher)

I carry a telescoping hydraulic jack. Short, but has alot of height when all 3 sections are extended. The shortness of the jack body makes it easy to get under the front I-beam, or rear axle, when the tire is flat.