new Sprinter
- Thread starter STORMS
- Start date
Well, first thing you should do is insulate it like crazy. Plan on about 5 days to do it. Yeah, I know.
Then consider a Fan-Tastic Fan Vent or some other type of air vent.
Then concentrate on the freight side of things. E-Track, plywood deck. Do you want e-track on the walls? Carry a couple of moving pads or blankets. Make sure you have the e-track ratchet straps, a couple of 12-footers and a couple of 16-footers should get you started.
Next would be a bed of some kind. And storage. And other living comforts, like lights, refrigeration, power inverter and aux batteries, etc.
Then put nitrogen in the tires.
Read back through the posts here and look for posts about vans. Some have pictures which will give you more ideas.
Then consider a Fan-Tastic Fan Vent or some other type of air vent.
Then concentrate on the freight side of things. E-Track, plywood deck. Do you want e-track on the walls? Carry a couple of moving pads or blankets. Make sure you have the e-track ratchet straps, a couple of 12-footers and a couple of 16-footers should get you started.
Next would be a bed of some kind. And storage. And other living comforts, like lights, refrigeration, power inverter and aux batteries, etc.
Then put nitrogen in the tires.
Read back through the posts here and look for posts about vans. Some have pictures which will give you more ideas.
RLENT
Veteran Expediter
I used plywood on the floor of mine - I spent alot of time cutting and fitting it, screwing it down with countersunk screws, and coating it with some really good polyurethane (gloss Varathane, oil-based, 5 or 6 coats)
Unfortunately it has gotten chewed up pretty bad - largely my fault because I never located and purchased pads to set under my freight so I could slide it around on the plywood when loading and unloading. Nor did I put a piece of aluminum angle on the back edge (to prevent pallets and skids from catching on it)
The other day when I was picking up at shipper (a plastics supplier) I inquired about plastic sheets to use on the floor, in lieu of plywood. They seemed to think it would work well in this application (of course they were selling it
)
They had two different types High Density Polyethylene (HDPE) and Ultra-High Molecular Weight (UHMW) The UHMW is heavier and more durable of the two (and more expensive) - it is used in the food service industry in a variety of applicatons, I think largely because it can be easily cleaned and kept sanitary.
The HDPE is a somewhat cheaper (although still more expensive than a good quality plywood) and it would probably be fine for the application - they felt I'd probably never have to replace it. About $120 or so for 4' x 8' x 1/2" sheet. FWIW.
Unfortunately it has gotten chewed up pretty bad - largely my fault because I never located and purchased pads to set under my freight so I could slide it around on the plywood when loading and unloading. Nor did I put a piece of aluminum angle on the back edge (to prevent pallets and skids from catching on it)
The other day when I was picking up at shipper (a plastics supplier) I inquired about plastic sheets to use on the floor, in lieu of plywood. They seemed to think it would work well in this application (of course they were selling it
)They had two different types High Density Polyethylene (HDPE) and Ultra-High Molecular Weight (UHMW) The UHMW is heavier and more durable of the two (and more expensive) - it is used in the food service industry in a variety of applicatons, I think largely because it can be easily cleaned and kept sanitary.
The HDPE is a somewhat cheaper (although still more expensive than a good quality plywood) and it would probably be fine for the application - they felt I'd probably never have to replace it. About $120 or so for 4' x 8' x 1/2" sheet. FWIW.
I was thinking in the appliance business we used throw carpets and slid the fridge across the floor(material side down close weave)...end of roll are cheap.
I've found that, for the most part, you really don't want the freight sliding around all that much. hehe
I was gonna use plastic for the deck, but I've seen plastic get pretty chewed up, too. A small pebble or piece of metal that falls under a skid, for example, can make a real mess out of plastic. And when that that HDPE gets cuts and grooves in it, the ridges are like razor sharp, so be careful.
Plywood is cheap and easy to replace if need be. And it's relatively quick and easy to repair chunks or gashes with wood putty or bondo. Sand it down and yer good to go. I used a Minwax poly acrylic instead of polyurethane. Basically the same thing, except it takes an extra coat or two, but it's slightly harder when dry. Main thing the poly coating is for is to keep splinters to a minimum, and to keep a coating on there to make it easier to keep clean.
When I put this deck in here I failed to coat it like I had always previously done. One time when changing my oil I let some oil drip from the filter onto the deck, and it immediately soaked right into the wood. When I did the shelves and stuff I then coated the deck. Net oil change I had some oil drip again, and it wiped right up clean with a paper towel.
When I have two skids back there, to get the skid that's furthest forward out, I use a long ratchet strap (without the ratchet, tho) with a flat hook. Usually I can run the strap around a board on the skid and hook the flat hook end over the strap, then tie the other end of the strap onto the crossbar of the forklift. Tie, as in not much more than how cowboys tie their horses when they arrive at a saloon. Forklift backs up and pulls the skid to where they can get to it.
http://www.uscargocontrol.com/ratchetstrap2x27wflathook-pi-18.html
And, STORMS, I cannot overstate the importance of insulation. Get anal about it, too. Insulate as if your life depends on it. You'll thank yourself many times in many ways if you do. The panels that are on there are not insulation. Well, they are, but it's akin to wearing a coat in -20 degree weather, and not buttoning up the coat, and not wearing a hat or gloves. You've got a coat on, but you're still gonna freeze your hoo-haa off.
Some people take the van and have spray on foam insulation done. It's a mess to get neat and cover up, but works well. What I would recommend is, remove the wall panels, insulate with foam board, fill in all open cracks with canned foam (plan on, oh, I dunno, 40 cans, probably more, buy a case to start). Then use that silver bubble pack and cover everything up, and be sure to seal each and every seam with the silver foil tape. Get a couple of rolls of that. Insulate the walls and ceiling, the wheel wells, doors, everything.
You should also take some pictures of the "bare" van with all the panels removed. That way you'll have a better idea where the beams are, where you can use screws for e-track and whatever.
Once fully insulated, it'll stay cooler in the summer, warmer in the winter, and quieter all year 'round.
I was gonna use plastic for the deck, but I've seen plastic get pretty chewed up, too. A small pebble or piece of metal that falls under a skid, for example, can make a real mess out of plastic. And when that that HDPE gets cuts and grooves in it, the ridges are like razor sharp, so be careful.
Plywood is cheap and easy to replace if need be. And it's relatively quick and easy to repair chunks or gashes with wood putty or bondo. Sand it down and yer good to go. I used a Minwax poly acrylic instead of polyurethane. Basically the same thing, except it takes an extra coat or two, but it's slightly harder when dry. Main thing the poly coating is for is to keep splinters to a minimum, and to keep a coating on there to make it easier to keep clean.
When I put this deck in here I failed to coat it like I had always previously done. One time when changing my oil I let some oil drip from the filter onto the deck, and it immediately soaked right into the wood. When I did the shelves and stuff I then coated the deck. Net oil change I had some oil drip again, and it wiped right up clean with a paper towel.
When I have two skids back there, to get the skid that's furthest forward out, I use a long ratchet strap (without the ratchet, tho) with a flat hook. Usually I can run the strap around a board on the skid and hook the flat hook end over the strap, then tie the other end of the strap onto the crossbar of the forklift. Tie, as in not much more than how cowboys tie their horses when they arrive at a saloon. Forklift backs up and pulls the skid to where they can get to it.
http://www.uscargocontrol.com/ratchetstrap2x27wflathook-pi-18.html
And, STORMS, I cannot overstate the importance of insulation. Get anal about it, too. Insulate as if your life depends on it. You'll thank yourself many times in many ways if you do. The panels that are on there are not insulation. Well, they are, but it's akin to wearing a coat in -20 degree weather, and not buttoning up the coat, and not wearing a hat or gloves. You've got a coat on, but you're still gonna freeze your hoo-haa off.
Some people take the van and have spray on foam insulation done. It's a mess to get neat and cover up, but works well. What I would recommend is, remove the wall panels, insulate with foam board, fill in all open cracks with canned foam (plan on, oh, I dunno, 40 cans, probably more, buy a case to start). Then use that silver bubble pack and cover everything up, and be sure to seal each and every seam with the silver foil tape. Get a couple of rolls of that. Insulate the walls and ceiling, the wheel wells, doors, everything.
You should also take some pictures of the "bare" van with all the panels removed. That way you'll have a better idea where the beams are, where you can use screws for e-track and whatever.
Once fully insulated, it'll stay cooler in the summer, warmer in the winter, and quieter all year 'round.
Actually, Rino linings are more rubbery, things don't slide all that well on it. A Line-X lining is harder and slicker, and things will slide around on it much easier. Rhino’s Tuff Stuff goes on cold/low pressure and will have that “cottage cheese†or “rain on the windshield†look, and things will stick to it very well, not slide around at all. Think fly paper. Line-X’s high heat/high pressure system gives it a more consistently applied texture, it’s sort of like an orange peel. The dealer can vary the texture from smooth to very rough. The smoother the dealer makes it, the easier things will slide.
Line-X is a little less prone to being gouged or cut, but neither will gouge or cut very easily. A protruding nail or a pebble underneath an 800 pound skid, and either liner will gouge or cut quite easily, however.
Rino linings are warranted by the dealer who installed it, only, and Line-X liners are warranted nationwide by any and all Line-X dealers. Neither company will give a warranty for commercial use.
In either case, for a pickup truck, it would cost somewhere between $350-$500 for a 1/8" thick lining up and over the rail, add a couple hundred for a 1/4" thick lining. For a Sprinter I'd guestimate more than that, $600-$700 or so.
Armacoatings is another option, more dense and harder than either of the above. More expensive, too.
Line-X is a little less prone to being gouged or cut, but neither will gouge or cut very easily. A protruding nail or a pebble underneath an 800 pound skid, and either liner will gouge or cut quite easily, however.
Rino linings are warranted by the dealer who installed it, only, and Line-X liners are warranted nationwide by any and all Line-X dealers. Neither company will give a warranty for commercial use.
In either case, for a pickup truck, it would cost somewhere between $350-$500 for a 1/8" thick lining up and over the rail, add a couple hundred for a 1/4" thick lining. For a Sprinter I'd guestimate more than that, $600-$700 or so.
Armacoatings is another option, more dense and harder than either of the above. More expensive, too.
Maybe a dumb question, but why not use the flooring and tie downs that come in the sprinter? The tie-downs work great with nylon web strapping and the floor is designed to haul (and slide pallets in and out) cargo. These trucks have been in use in Europe for a long time and my German friends tell me they use them as is.
So you think the line X will work but it's kind of costly. Do you think the cost would be worth it? I was thinking (here I go again going to get a headache) fit all the wood in it. Then take the wood up and take over and get it sparyed and then put it back in. I know my buddy has got it in his truck and it is so slick he puts a rubber mat over it, so things don't slip around. My new 07 sprinter has a soft rubber topping on the floor, looks nice. I was just worried about sliding across it. I'm with you on using what came with it. It has the D rings in it all down the sides. I just don't know if it will hold up. I was reading back in some of the older theards and one guy said the D rings bent pretty quick. Boy I like the pics that one guy did with the insulation and the Etracks I think that is I will do to this one. Thanks for the info
RLENT
Veteran Expediter
Storms,
The factory D-Rings are rated (at least for 2006 and earlier model years) for 3687.158 foot pounds of torque (500 decanewtons)
Spreading the load over two rings (with a single cargo strap) would yield a max load securement value of 7374 lbs.
Spreading the load over four rings (using two cargo straps) would yield a max load securement value of 14748 lbs.
If ya wanted to be safe use half the value - which is still probably more than you should ever put in your Sprinter. I went around and round on this with my carrier (small company) who wanted me to put in cast eyelets thru the floor because they deemed the D-rings "inadequate" and I was unable to locate any data about the ratings of the rings at the time. Eventually I found the data here, at the bottom of the page:
http://www.whnet.com/4x4/sprinter_crashtest.html
I think the only way you will bend anything (likely the metal that the bolts for rings screw into) is by way over-torquing a ratchet strap beyond what you need to to secure your cargo - provided you are not overloading the vehicle.
On using the stock floor, on 2006 and eariler models, the flooring is fairly thin, with some insulation or sound-deadening material underneath it. It has a non-skid type surface and is attached to the vehicle floor pan with aluminum pop-rivets - and it would be easy enough to shear off the rivet heads by dragging stuff - like skids/pallets/bins across them. Therefore I chose to put down plywood (you want 1/2" thick to match the height of the floor E-Track if you put E-Track on the floor) - so that when I eventually disposed of the vehicle I could pull up the plywood and have a nice floor underneath it. I used outdoor rated screws similar to a drywall screw, and countersunk them into the plywood. Be sure to sink them a little below the surface, otherwise if a skid/pallet/bin digs in they will get ripped out or bent.
I would follow Turtle's advice (wish I had) and use the foil bubble insulation in addition to foam insulation (which is all I used)
The factory D-Rings are rated (at least for 2006 and earlier model years) for 3687.158 foot pounds of torque (500 decanewtons)
Spreading the load over two rings (with a single cargo strap) would yield a max load securement value of 7374 lbs.
Spreading the load over four rings (using two cargo straps) would yield a max load securement value of 14748 lbs.
If ya wanted to be safe use half the value - which is still probably more than you should ever put in your Sprinter.
I went around and round on this with my carrier (small company) who wanted me to put in cast eyelets thru the floor because they deemed the D-rings "inadequate" and I was unable to locate any data about the ratings of the rings at the time. Eventually I found the data here, at the bottom of the page:http://www.whnet.com/4x4/sprinter_crashtest.html
I think the only way you will bend anything (likely the metal that the bolts for rings screw into) is by way over-torquing a ratchet strap beyond what you need to to secure your cargo - provided you are not overloading the vehicle.
On using the stock floor, on 2006 and eariler models, the flooring is fairly thin, with some insulation or sound-deadening material underneath it. It has a non-skid type surface and is attached to the vehicle floor pan with aluminum pop-rivets - and it would be easy enough to shear off the rivet heads by dragging stuff - like skids/pallets/bins across them. Therefore I chose to put down plywood (you want 1/2" thick to match the height of the floor E-Track if you put E-Track on the floor) - so that when I eventually disposed of the vehicle I could pull up the plywood and have a nice floor underneath it. I used outdoor rated screws similar to a drywall screw, and countersunk them into the plywood. Be sure to sink them a little below the surface, otherwise if a skid/pallet/bin digs in they will get ripped out or bent.
I would follow Turtle's advice (wish I had) and use the foil bubble insulation in addition to foam insulation (which is all I used)
" Maybe a dumb question, but why not use the flooring and tie downs that come in the sprinter?"
You can, certainly. But the flooring will, absolutely, get torn up, and it's easier to replace (or repair) a sheet of plywood that has been laid down on top of the factory sheeting than it is to replace (or repair) the factory sheeting.
"The tie-downs work great with nylon web strapping and the floor is designed to haul (and slide pallets in and out) cargo. These trucks have been in use in Europe for a long time and my German friends tell me they use them as is."
True enough, some Sprinter drivers use the factory decking and tie downs. Some don't. It all depends on the type of freight they have to haul, and to where they are hauling it. In Europe, you can't throw a rock without hitting a Sprinter. Been there, seen it. Over there, the roads, and the traffic, and the distances traveled, are much different than in North America. For example, if the Sprinter were designed from the ground up for North America, I guarantee you it would have at least a 35 gallon fuel tank. But in Europe, a 26 gallon tank is considered a rather large one even for a freight hauling van.
If you like messing with nylon webbing, then tie downs are for you. If you like messing with tie downs at all, then tie down are for you. But if you like it quick and easy, and just as secure, then e-track and ratchet straps are the way to go. They are much easier and faster to put down and take off. Nylon webbing is good for barrels, and for loose cargo, but generally speaking, it's more of a hassle to deal with in expediting.
In fact, because of the way most shippers secure their cargo to the skid, the vast majority of loads in expediting can be handled with 2x4 e-track brackets and a single 2x4 laid on the floor in the brackets - a load bar on the floor, in other words. Some cargo is secured to itself, but not to the skid, and in cases like that a 2x4 will keep the skid from sliding forward, but it won't keep the cargo from sliding forward and right off the skid. In those cases, either a 2x6 load bar would suffice, or simply strap them down. Just keep in your mind, "What will this cargo do if I have to slam on the brakes?" and secure accordingly. You want it to move very little, if at all.
Tie down rings also limit where you can tie things off to them, whereas e-track gives you many more positions with which to secure the load.
Some people like tie down rings. More power to them. I left my tie down rings accessible in case I wanted to use them, and in every case it was more efficient to use e-track. I've since removed the rings and have never once wished I still had them. Use whatever you like, whatever works best for you.
" So you think the line X will work but it's kind of costly."
I've seen both in action, in a cargo van in expediting, and if I were going to get Line-X or Rino, it would be the Line-X. Either will work, but neither will stay in relatively pristine condition for very long at all. In every case, every owner of an expediting van with a spray-on lining has said next time they'll just go with plywood.
The only thing that I've seen that will take a beating and keep on ticking (other than a Timex watch) is diamond plate steel, as you would have in a van that has been converted as a refer unit. I've run into a guy several times who bought a used refer van (fresh fish on ice delivery) and now uses it for expediting. It's a beautiful thing to behold. Entire cargo area, floor to ceiling, boxed around and over the wheel wells, all pure diamond plate. It rolls its eyes a pebbles under a skid. A protruding nail? Ha! Child's play. A rough forklift operator? Yawn.
But, it's heavy. Very heavy. Not suited for a Sprinter at all. And the cost is out of sight.
"Do you think the cost would be worth it?"
Rino or Line-X for an expedited cargo van? Nope. Not worth the cost. Under the very worst of circumstances, you'll replace a plywood deck once a year. Even if you do that once a year for 5 years, you will still be far behind the cost of a spray-on lining. Not even close. More likely, though, a plywood deck will last at least three years, probably five, and if you keep the larger nicks and gouges repaired with bondo or wood putty, it will very likely last the life of the van.
"I know my buddy has got it in his truck and it is so slick he puts a rubber mat over it, so things don't slip around."
There's a fine line between wanting something to slide easily and something to stay put. You want the freight to slide easily when you want to load or unload it, but you want it to stick when hauling it.
The best compromise is a hard plywood deck coated with a polyacrylic (or failing that, a polyurethane is a close second, just not as hard). A poly coating serves a dual purpose. One, it helps keeps the deck clean, as oil and other spills won't soak into the wood. It also acts to hold the skid in place under a run, but at the same time allows the skid to be moved with less effort when you want to move it. I've had countless runs where a skid has been placed in the cargo area, and I've placed the 2x4 load bar an inch or two in front of the skid, only to arrive at delivery with the skid no closer to the load bar than when I started out, nor has it moved at all left or right.
Some trucks, like those who deal with moving air freight from the plane to the bonded warehouse, have recessed rollers in the floor of their trailer. When the freight is loaded or unloaded, the rollers pop up out of the floor, allowing the cargo to slide with the push of a hand. But, the cost of that system, even for a van, makes the cost of a spray on liner look like pocket change.
A spray on lining will look kewl, especially if you have the wheel wells done to protect them, as well. But, for my money, it doesn't look that kewl.
Don't get me wrong, as I'm not saying a spray on lining will be this major mistake. It won't be. But, I think, plywood is the most cost effective method. It's most cost effective to put down, repair, maintain, and, if need be, replace.
You can, certainly. But the flooring will, absolutely, get torn up, and it's easier to replace (or repair) a sheet of plywood that has been laid down on top of the factory sheeting than it is to replace (or repair) the factory sheeting.
"The tie-downs work great with nylon web strapping and the floor is designed to haul (and slide pallets in and out) cargo. These trucks have been in use in Europe for a long time and my German friends tell me they use them as is."
True enough, some Sprinter drivers use the factory decking and tie downs. Some don't. It all depends on the type of freight they have to haul, and to where they are hauling it. In Europe, you can't throw a rock without hitting a Sprinter. Been there, seen it. Over there, the roads, and the traffic, and the distances traveled, are much different than in North America. For example, if the Sprinter were designed from the ground up for North America, I guarantee you it would have at least a 35 gallon fuel tank. But in Europe, a 26 gallon tank is considered a rather large one even for a freight hauling van.
If you like messing with nylon webbing, then tie downs are for you. If you like messing with tie downs at all, then tie down are for you. But if you like it quick and easy, and just as secure, then e-track and ratchet straps are the way to go. They are much easier and faster to put down and take off. Nylon webbing is good for barrels, and for loose cargo, but generally speaking, it's more of a hassle to deal with in expediting.
In fact, because of the way most shippers secure their cargo to the skid, the vast majority of loads in expediting can be handled with 2x4 e-track brackets and a single 2x4 laid on the floor in the brackets - a load bar on the floor, in other words. Some cargo is secured to itself, but not to the skid, and in cases like that a 2x4 will keep the skid from sliding forward, but it won't keep the cargo from sliding forward and right off the skid. In those cases, either a 2x6 load bar would suffice, or simply strap them down. Just keep in your mind, "What will this cargo do if I have to slam on the brakes?" and secure accordingly. You want it to move very little, if at all.
Tie down rings also limit where you can tie things off to them, whereas e-track gives you many more positions with which to secure the load.
Some people like tie down rings. More power to them. I left my tie down rings accessible in case I wanted to use them, and in every case it was more efficient to use e-track. I've since removed the rings and have never once wished I still had them. Use whatever you like, whatever works best for you.
" So you think the line X will work but it's kind of costly."
I've seen both in action, in a cargo van in expediting, and if I were going to get Line-X or Rino, it would be the Line-X. Either will work, but neither will stay in relatively pristine condition for very long at all. In every case, every owner of an expediting van with a spray-on lining has said next time they'll just go with plywood.
The only thing that I've seen that will take a beating and keep on ticking (other than a Timex watch) is diamond plate steel, as you would have in a van that has been converted as a refer unit. I've run into a guy several times who bought a used refer van (fresh fish on ice delivery) and now uses it for expediting. It's a beautiful thing to behold. Entire cargo area, floor to ceiling, boxed around and over the wheel wells, all pure diamond plate. It rolls its eyes a pebbles under a skid. A protruding nail? Ha! Child's play. A rough forklift operator? Yawn.
But, it's heavy. Very heavy. Not suited for a Sprinter at all. And the cost is out of sight.
"Do you think the cost would be worth it?"
Rino or Line-X for an expedited cargo van? Nope. Not worth the cost. Under the very worst of circumstances, you'll replace a plywood deck once a year. Even if you do that once a year for 5 years, you will still be far behind the cost of a spray-on lining. Not even close. More likely, though, a plywood deck will last at least three years, probably five, and if you keep the larger nicks and gouges repaired with bondo or wood putty, it will very likely last the life of the van.
"I know my buddy has got it in his truck and it is so slick he puts a rubber mat over it, so things don't slip around."
There's a fine line between wanting something to slide easily and something to stay put. You want the freight to slide easily when you want to load or unload it, but you want it to stick when hauling it.
The best compromise is a hard plywood deck coated with a polyacrylic (or failing that, a polyurethane is a close second, just not as hard). A poly coating serves a dual purpose. One, it helps keeps the deck clean, as oil and other spills won't soak into the wood. It also acts to hold the skid in place under a run, but at the same time allows the skid to be moved with less effort when you want to move it. I've had countless runs where a skid has been placed in the cargo area, and I've placed the 2x4 load bar an inch or two in front of the skid, only to arrive at delivery with the skid no closer to the load bar than when I started out, nor has it moved at all left or right.
Some trucks, like those who deal with moving air freight from the plane to the bonded warehouse, have recessed rollers in the floor of their trailer. When the freight is loaded or unloaded, the rollers pop up out of the floor, allowing the cargo to slide with the push of a hand. But, the cost of that system, even for a van, makes the cost of a spray on liner look like pocket change.
A spray on lining will look kewl, especially if you have the wheel wells done to protect them, as well. But, for my money, it doesn't look that kewl.
Don't get me wrong, as I'm not saying a spray on lining will be this major mistake. It won't be. But, I think, plywood is the most cost effective method. It's most cost effective to put down, repair, maintain, and, if need be, replace.
Hey, thank you for the info. Turtle I will have to give you this you are very Informative and I do appreciate what you have told me. I am in the middle of doing the insulation now.
I was thinking again (you know this one is going to hurt you know the thinking part) about taking out the right seat and putting a recliner in backwards and in the roof putting in a dvd player. You know one that folds up and down. Any ideas on this one?
I think you are right on the d rings. I think they would work most of the time and I going to leave them in, but I think having the E track would be better. I called the new compny that I am going to work for. They ask for E tracks and that help make that decision.
Anything to help me put it together wright now would be greatly appreciate. Thank You
I was thinking again (you know this one is going to hurt you know the thinking part) about taking out the right seat and putting a recliner in backwards and in the roof putting in a dvd player. You know one that folds up and down. Any ideas on this one?
I think you are right on the d rings. I think they would work most of the time and I going to leave them in, but I think having the E track would be better. I called the new compny that I am going to work for. They ask for E tracks and that help make that decision.
Anything to help me put it together wright now would be greatly appreciate. Thank You
arkjarhead
Veteran Expediter
i'm no sprinter man but it seems to me the best way to do it would be like some of the others said and put plywood down because it's cheaper. plus you could replace it in less than a day.
>Spreading the load over four rings (using two cargo straps)
>would yield a max load securement value of 14748 lbs.
>
All this stuff is outside my area however I'm thinking about the effective weight of the load versus the static weight of the load, if those terms are remotely correct. A 1500 pound object is nowhere near the load value at rest or when on cruise control but what is the effective weight of that object under panic braking? What about worst case in a collision? Either of those might exceed 14748 effective pounds.
Leo Bricker, 73's K5LDB, OOIDA Life Member 677319
Owner, Panther trucks 5508, 5509, 5641
Highway Watch Participant, Truckerbuddy
EO Forum Moderator
----------
Support the entire Constitution, not just the parts you like.
>would yield a max load securement value of 14748 lbs.
>
All this stuff is outside my area however I'm thinking about the effective weight of the load versus the static weight of the load, if those terms are remotely correct. A 1500 pound object is nowhere near the load value at rest or when on cruise control but what is the effective weight of that object under panic braking? What about worst case in a collision? Either of those might exceed 14748 effective pounds.
Leo Bricker, 73's K5LDB, OOIDA Life Member 677319
Owner, Panther trucks 5508, 5509, 5641
Highway Watch Participant, Truckerbuddy
EO Forum Moderator
----------
Support the entire Constitution, not just the parts you like.
RLENT
Veteran Expediter
Leo,
You are entirely correct in your thinking.
I have no idea whether or not the terminology is correct or not (perhaps static and dynamic loading would be the correct terms ?) ...... but a static weight or load is certainly not the same as a force generated by a mass in motion which is decelerating ......
I did not mean to imply that two or four D-Rings were capable of (safely) securing a 7,000 or 14,000 lb piece of cargo - that's why I said if you wanted to be safe you would never use anywhere close to the capacity of the rings.
In fact that's what DC has effectively done - since the D-rings are used in a vehicle that whose payload capacity is only probably 3,000 to 4,500 lbs - and realistically one would need to use at least two rings at a minimum.
Undoubtedly, my explanation was somewhat poorly worded - the intent was to show that the D-rings aren't just some whimpy light-duty piece of equipment - they are meant to be, and are capable of, safely securing a significant amount of weight, when used properly and within their rated capacity.
You are entirely correct in your thinking.
I have no idea whether or not the terminology is correct or not (perhaps static and dynamic loading would be the correct terms ?) ...... but a static weight or load is certainly not the same as a force generated by a mass in motion which is decelerating ......
I did not mean to imply that two or four D-Rings were capable of (safely) securing a 7,000 or 14,000 lb piece of cargo - that's why I said if you wanted to be safe you would never use anywhere close to the capacity of the rings.
In fact that's what DC has effectively done - since the D-rings are used in a vehicle that whose payload capacity is only probably 3,000 to 4,500 lbs - and realistically one would need to use at least two rings at a minimum.
Undoubtedly, my explanation was somewhat poorly worded - the intent was to show that the D-rings aren't just some whimpy light-duty piece of equipment - they are meant to be, and are capable of, safely securing a significant amount of weight, when used properly and within their rated capacity.
greg334
Veteran Expediter
You know there is something else to remember.
Even though a 1500 lb load will exceed 14k lbs when involved with a collision above 60 MPH, (simple physics) the tie downs that are provided on the Sprinter and other commercial vehicles of that type are subject to fatigue at the mount points which could weaken with time just due to the structural design of the vehicle itself. What I mean is a new Sprinter are used in the collision tests and they don't take in account any aging of the vehicle, so a new vehicle with these points may stop the load from shifting but an older one that has a lot of miles on it may not stop it.
Even though a 1500 lb load will exceed 14k lbs when involved with a collision above 60 MPH, (simple physics) the tie downs that are provided on the Sprinter and other commercial vehicles of that type are subject to fatigue at the mount points which could weaken with time just due to the structural design of the vehicle itself. What I mean is a new Sprinter are used in the collision tests and they don't take in account any aging of the vehicle, so a new vehicle with these points may stop the load from shifting but an older one that has a lot of miles on it may not stop it.
dieseldoctor1
Expert Expediter
If you are looking for something that is hard, tough, slick and looks good, look at Bruce's solid oak prefinished hardwood flooring. I've just installed some in my daughters house. Instructions say to fasten it down with either 6d or 8d finishing nails and there is no way to drive them through the flooring without predrilling a pilot hole. Pilot hole needs to be 1/16" and I broke 3 Bosch Titanium drill bits on this job. The wood is 3/4" thick, 2 1/4" wide and is tongue and grooved. I've done a bunch of woodworking in my lifetime but this is the hardest wood I've dealt with. It would be a bear to take out if you ever wanted to replace it though. If I was going to use it in my van I would glue it to a sheet of 1/4" plywood and then bolt it down like my 3/4" plywood is bolted down now. I have the center piece of plywood so that I can take out several bolts and slide it out. Then I lift out a door in the factory floor and replace the fuel pump. I can change a fuel pump in about 30 minutes without a problem.
Just food for thought.
Dieseldoctor
Just food for thought.
Dieseldoctor
also one thing to look at is how you sit in the seat
in my 03 sprinter with the bulk head can't get the seat back the way i want, so in a few days will be fixing that problem
also i like the roller it put in and sometime's there like having a second person around , and they make the heavy load's easier to move to the back
you can look back in drive profiles and see how i set it
in my 03 sprinter with the bulk head can't get the seat back the way i want, so in a few days will be fixing that problem
also i like the roller it put in and sometime's there like having a second person around , and they make the heavy load's easier to move to the back
you can look back in drive profiles and see how i set it
I used some sort of plastic composite fascia board from Home Depot for my floor. Each board is 12'L, 7 7/8"W, 1/2" thick. Cost was $20 per board. These plastic boards were laid over 3/8" plywood using construction adhesive, deck screws, Tec screws and bolts.
While not indestructible, this floor has held up very well. There are some gouges, but they tend to be shallow and blunt. This material does not chip or splinter like plywood. My only complaint is it added a few more pounds. I'm sure 3/4" plywood would be lighter. I would definitely use these plastic boards again.
While not indestructible, this floor has held up very well. There are some gouges, but they tend to be shallow and blunt. This material does not chip or splinter like plywood. My only complaint is it added a few more pounds. I'm sure 3/4" plywood would be lighter. I would definitely use these plastic boards again.