More Sprinter ?'s

OntarioVanMan

Retired Expediter
Owner/Operator
Ok how many Sprinter owners have rusty filler fuel caps? We take it off all the time ever look under it?
Another: Harmonic balancer How many have replaced this???

Mines an 05.
 

talkinghorse43

Expert Expediter
The filler cap on my '02 is rusty - has been for a long time. Haven't had a problem with the harmonic balancer yet (98k miles).
 

Turtle

Administrator
Staff member
Retired Expediter
I haven't had a problem with the harmonic load balancer, but I do have a rusty fuel cap. Talked with my Sprinter tech just the other day about the rust issue. He said it's nothing to worry about. Apparently, diesel fuel will flat out rust stainless steel. Don't know. But, in any case, the only part of the cap and filler tube that's metal is the rusty part you see on the cap itself and where the cap screws onto the filler tube. I'm not even sure which part is rusting, the cap, or the part of the tube where the cap screws into it, or both. Not sure of a fix, or even if a fix is necessary. I do wipe it off every now and then.

Incidentally, I just had the transmission fluid flush and renew the other day, along with the rear end differential. Supposed to be done at 60,000 miles (instead of the 80,000 as indicated in the Owner's Manual). Do yourself a huge favor and supply your own transmission fluid for this. I didn't, but next time I absolutely will.

I was told by several people to expect the transmission and rear end differeential to cost about $450, about $350 for the transmission and about $100 for the rear end. (Do make sure you have both of them done at the same time!) Mine came to $455.02 so everyone was correct.

The rear end was $86.94 for $47.70 Labor and $39.24 for parts (two quarts of Mopar# 5136033-AA rear end lubricant, $19.62 per quart).

The transmission flush and renew Labor was $79.50, and the flush (Wynn's transmission Flush) was $23.95. But the kicker is the Mopar# 5127382-AB, twelve quarts (liters, actually) at $19.85 per, total $238.20

The trans fluid Mopar# in the manual says 5127382-"AA", but Mercedes now recommends the "AB" part number, instead. Daimler has several vehicles with the same transmission as the Sprinter, but only the Crossfire and the Sprinter also share the same torque converter, which is why the bottles say for Sprinter and Crossfire Only on them.

Europarts of San Diego (http://www.europarts-sd.com/) has most any Sprinter part you might need for maintenance, all of them are original OEM parts or direct replacements as indicated, and they do have some really good prices on most things. Especially on the transmission fluid, at $9.50 a liter.

Could have saved myself $124.50 (less shipping) if I had ordered the fluid from them instead of getting it from the dealer. Take heed.

Also, as a follow-up to a long forgotten thread, I ordered 10 oil filters for the Sprinter off eBay for $61.90 including shipping. What I got were the Fram filters, which is what I wold have bought if I bought them locally. This eBay seller will send out either the Fram or the OEM Mann filters, depending on what is available at the time. (http://stores.ebay.com/Alissas-World)

I also ordered a Fumoto oil drain plug valve to make the Sprinter's no-brainer oil change even less cerebral. It's a very kewl thing. This should be standard issue on most every vehicle. Replace the OEM oil drain plug with this one (it includes a replacement seal), and changing the oil is as simple as opening the valve. Pretty much eliminates any chance of striping the plug threads.
http://www.lubricationspecialist.com/front/showcontent.aspx?fileid=105
They're in Greenfield, IN.

You can get one with or without the nipple. I got the one with the nipple. I like nipples. Plus, the oil drain is on the side of the oil pan, right up front, and I didn't want it draining all over the tires, brakes, whatever. You attach a hose to the nipple and then you can drain off whatever amount of oil you like, be it a few ounces for an oil analysis, or for filling up a one gallon (or quart) container, then filling up another, and so on until all 9.5 quarts are drained, all without making a mess or needing to carry an oil drain pan with you. (I actually use a 2.75 gallon kitty litter jug for my used oil. Don't remember the brand, but it was a green on white label, and cheap. Used it for snow traction this winter. Got it at Petsmart) (is that supposed to be Pets Mart, or Pet Smart? I digress)

The Sprinter 2.7L uses the F-106 valve plug $20.95 (or the F-106N for the one with the nipple $21.95).

I also got the retaining clip, just in case. The retaining clip is a dollar, and almost certainly isn't needed, but for a buck, I figured I'd rather go with the added safety. I'd hate to run over a gator or something and have it hit the lottery on the oil pan. Having that valve open by accident is gonna be harder than making julienne fries with a Sledge-O-Matic, tho.

You can also order the hose from them. Theirs is 24 inches long, and is 3/8 (internal) x 5/8 (external) and it will snugly fit over the nipple. It's clear, food-grade hose. The 24-hose is fine if you use a drain pan, but it will either be way too long or a couple of feet too short if you use a jug like I do. If you fill to a jug (or jugs) that you'll sit in front of the bumper, you'll need a 4 foot hose. 3 feet, anyway. If you need a longer hose, call them and they'll probably cut one to size, or you can go to Home Depot or Lowes or someplace and get it. Just make sure the inner diameter is 3/8 inch so it fits snugly over the nipple. (Also, if you sit the jug in front of the bumper, you'll want to make sure the hight of the jug is below the bottom of the bumper, as the oil won't drain very well if it has to drain down hill under the bumper, and then back up hill to the jug opening.) If you use a jug that will sit up under the oil pan, 2 feet is too long, as most of the hose will be sitting down inside the jug. The jug I use fits (barely) under the oil pan and drain, and I could fill the jug with no hose at all, it sits that close to the drain opening. But I use a 4-inch piece of hose on it.

Incidentally, the URL's that I list here are for information only and not necessarily an endorsement. I use them here for two reasons. One, it's where I got my stuff and I can, at least, recommend them, and two, it's so you will know what the heck I'm talking about and to give you your own ideas.

Changing your own oil in a Sprinter is brain-dead easy. Get a filter wrench (Lisle part # 54760, 76mm, 14 flutes), a 3/8" socket drive wrench, oil filter, the oil, a Fumoto drain valve and something to drain the oil into, and changing the oil in the Sprinter is a nearly white glove operation (except for the the o-ring replacements). It's so easy a caveman can do it.

Heck, it's so easy even a girl can do it. And by girl, I mean an 8 year old girl. Or, hey, even Cheri.
 

OntarioVanMan

Retired Expediter
Owner/Operator
This is a relatively frequently repaired problem. The Turbo Resonator is a plastic device which is placed between the Turbocharger Outlet and the Intercooler on the left side of the engine compartment as you face it from the front. It is nothing more than a muffler designed to reduce the turbo whine. It has no moving parts and you can look into one end and see clear through the device. Apparently, the body of this plastic device consists of two pieces which are heat sealed together. This seal is prone to fail resulting in a partial to total loss of turbo boost. The computer senses this as a catastrophic failure of the turbo and puts the engine in limp home mode -- a top speed of about 30mph and a nearly complete inability to climb hills. From information gleaned from several forums this failure was not unique. Depending on who you talk to, the opinions range from it being an isolated failure of a few parts to a cause for an
expected pending recall. I don't know. I do know that this is a
cheesy part to have fail in the middle of nowhere.

The good news, is that it is not very expensive (<$70) and that it only takes a few minutes to replace. It is secured by two Torx screws and two hose clamps -- an easy job for most mechanics and laymen. I
purchased an extra and recommend that users who expect to get far from
home do the same.
The better news is that you can search online and find a fellow that is selling aluminum billet substitutes which will likely never blow out.
This unit costs around $100 delivered.
 

greg334

Veteran Expediter
Turtle,
are you serious? Is this what he said?

"Apparently, diesel fuel will flat out rust stainless steel."

I fell out of my chair laughing.

Ok, I know that the mechanic is educated by D-C and that is why I have not trusted them since my cummins debacle. I would start seriously thinking about another mechanic with a comment like that.

But...

If I remember right the metal is not stainless and it lacks a proper coating for the job if it has a coating at all. If it had a coating then I would assume it is either a waterbased coating or a very thin petroleum based coating just put on there to prevent rust from forming during the manufacturing process. I happen to think that it is a waterbase coating because of the fact that there is rust (no not because of the water but rather because of what I saw).

As diesel fuel being the cause for the rust, nope not a chance because if that was the case, it would be a problem for your fuel system too. And just an FYI, diesel fuel and kerosene is used to coat parts to prevent rust in some industries.
 

RLENT

Veteran Expediter
Diesel fuel won't rust stainless (due to the inherent nature of stainless itself) .... it might corode it however (sulfur content, possible acidity, etc. etc.)

On the otherhand diesel fuel is a hydrophilic substance, meaning that it attracts water - so it will attract moisture that could cause an improperly sealed or coated piece of steel to rust.

...... and now back to your regularly scheduled programming .......
 

Turtle

Administrator
Staff member
Retired Expediter
>Turtle,
>are you serious? Is this what he said?
>

Yep.

>"Apparently, diesel fuel will flat out rust stainless
>steel."
>

Word for word. lol

>I fell out of my chair laughing.
>

That's why I said, I don't know. Cause I've used diesel to coat metal parts before to prevent rust.


The guy is actually a pretty good mechanic, even though he's probably 25 years old. He's brain-dead stoopid on some things, but he can figure out the cause of some of the most bizarre problems. He's an electrical genius. Bad wiring practically talks to him and tells him what's wrong.

But, he's at a small Sprinter dealer, so he's still learning about it. For anything really serious I'd go to one of 2 or 3 other dealers that do more work with Sprinters on a daily basis.

I'm not sure what to do with the fuel cap. Maybe coat it with some rubber or something. I'd guess it has (had) a water based coating on it, too. Other than the rust, it looks more like galvanized aluminum, even though I know it's not.
 

jaminjim

Veteran Expediter
Quick test to see if it is stainless steel, use a magnet, if it sticks it is probably not S/S.
 
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