Yeah, I noticed they don't cross. Im gonna dig around and see what I can find.
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Big Truck I work on Hino trucks. I'll answer any questions I know the answers to.
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Yeah, I noticed they don't cross. Im gonna dig around and see what I can find.
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jeffcarl
Seasoned Expediter
Hello again Greasy. So by 2013 did they get the pollution control stuff sorted outl? Are you seeing these late models making their owner/operators loose their minds with servicing the pollution control systems, or is it something that folks can live with reasonably well?
That is an excellent question. 11-13 trucks have identical Dpf/scr systems. If the maintenance schedule is followed, the driver is given adequate instruction on how to treat the truck, and only clean def is put in the tank, there's little issue. Initially there were quite a few bugs that needed to be sorted out. An improvement in the injectors and different engine and burner computer programming helped improve reliability tremendously.
If the driver continuously shuts the truck off during a regen, that's a problem. If a regen problem surfaces and is then ignored, that's a problem. If diesel goes in the def tank, that's a problem. If you don't have software that can tell you what its doing, that is a massive, overwhelming problem. A generic scan tool will tell you absolutely squat about what is actually going on, and the codes in the bcu and dcu can't be cleared without it.
I've been talking to a member here that has a fleet version of the software, and from what i can tell, its capable of doing advanced diag. Anyone who plans on doing their own work successfully needs to consider buying it.
It's the same way with cat and cummins, fwiw.
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jeffcarl
Seasoned Expediter
That is what I was hoping to hear. I have an agreement on a 70,000 2013 338, will see it in person Wednesday to cast it in stone as long as it is as advertised (& I am confident that it is, but as RR said, "trust but verify")
I'll be putting 50,000/year at most on it so I would expect a long & happy marriage.
What software should I be looking for?
Thanks Again, we Hino guys need to put you on retainer!
jeff
I'll be putting 50,000/year at most on it so I would expect a long & happy marriage.
What software should I be looking for?
Thanks Again, we Hino guys need to put you on retainer!
jeff
I'd shoot allways a pm. I think he's got the fleet version. I've never seen it in person.
We used to see them come in pretty frequently with regen problems. They issued a few recalls over burner ignitors and bcu/ecu reflashes, and just like that, warranty business dried up. Lol.
In particular, the updated burner ignitors are slightly longer, improving the spark between them. The new bcu software turns on the ignition coil for around five minutes every now and then, keeping the ignitors clean. If it sees a lost flame event, the ignitors are energized again to clean them up. None of this igniter cleaning happened with the old software, so a driver who didn't realize it was doing a regen (or didn't care) and shut the truck off or used the exhaust brake constantly, the ignitors would quickly foul.
For all Hinos with a Dpf: when the "dpr" bar graph hits three bars, it will almost immediately start a regen while the truck is moving. If the vehicle stops, or is shut off, it will try again when it starts up moving again. If its interrupted enough times, around 5 bars, it will alarm and tell you a manual regen is required. If its run all the way up to ten bars, you just bought yourself a Dpf or a trip to the Dpf cleaning oven. At this point, the truck may not be able to regen it all out itself. They can also melt the ceramic substrate at this point.
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If you want to add flexibility to the truck's ability to regen, take it to the dealer and have the "rental car" flag under engine customization changed from 0 to 1. This will allow a parked regen at any time. The DPR indicator could be at zero and you can still force a parked regen.
Helpful if a driver knows traffic conditions won't allow a driving regen, but the DPR indicator is only at 1 or 2 bars. It let's you get the regen over and done with early so its not stuck in an endless loop later, like being stuck in traffic.
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Helpful if a driver knows traffic conditions won't allow a driving regen, but the DPR indicator is only at 1 or 2 bars. It let's you get the regen over and done with early so its not stuck in an endless loop later, like being stuck in traffic.
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Got it. Gimme a minute to check it out.
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having trouble w/egr,took in for service.war is replcing dpr,will not help w/egr.turbo leaks doc'd last year.rep says not related.who can get me past 1st dealer rep to some body that wants to help.
What year is the truck? Model, engine?
What is your complaint? Egr valve failure?
Turbo is leaking what? Exhaust gas? Oil? I'm assuming oil. It's fairly common for them to leak some oil, and that by itself is not going to be covered by warranty. Did anyone measure radial and axial endplay?
In some cases, a problem with VNT control link corrosion could get you a turbo under warranty, but it depends on the year.
If there's excessive oil in the intake piping, it may be coming from the crankcase breather. In that case, make sure oil level isn't overfilled, and isn't fuel diluted. Also check valve lash (50k interval). Have they ever been adjusted?
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Another question: why did they replace the dpr? What caused it to fail?
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Kind of big deal: Many 08-10 trucks (DPR only) have had a recall issued, with improved software to enhance regeneration performance. Exhaust brake settings have been revised downwards. If your DPR is visually failing, you get a new one.
So if you've been having regen problems on an 08-10 truck, don't miss this opportunity.
So if you've been having regen problems on an 08-10 truck, don't miss this opportunity.
[h=1]A little off topic but definitely important as far as reliability goes.
HINO MOTORS, LTD. : January 20, 2014 Dakar Rally 2014: Hino Motors Wins 5th Straight Championship in the "Under 10-litre Class" of the Trucks Category[/h][h=1]http://www.hino.co.jp/dakar/index.html[/h]Poke around the site there is some cool pics.
You can find some English translations that discuss a lot of the race on the web.
CIAO
HINO MOTORS, LTD. : January 20, 2014 Dakar Rally 2014: Hino Motors Wins 5th Straight Championship in the "Under 10-litre Class" of the Trucks Category[/h][h=1]http://www.hino.co.jp/dakar/index.html[/h]Poke around the site there is some cool pics.
You can find some English translations that discuss a lot of the race on the web.
CIAO
Here is an English link to some more Dakar stuff
http://www.4-traders.com/out.php?url=http://www.hino-global.com/dakar/index.html
http://www.4-traders.com/out.php?url=http://www.hino-global.com/dakar/index.html
I've been asked this question via PM.
If the fan clutch is indeed working normally (and you'll definitely hear it cycle on and off), then that's good, a bad fan clutch will certainly cause an overheat.
When the thermostat was replaced, was the little tickler valve oriented at the very top? It's supposed to allow any air bubbles to escape from the thermostat housing and go to the radiator. Air pockets in the system will cause all sorts of dumb symptoms.
Now, onto the radiator. They can seem deceptively clean. Realistically, unbolt the condenser and move it out of the way (lines can stay attached), remove the intercooler (the bolts like to corrode, so avoid breaking them), and get a good look at the radiator.
You might end up with this scenario.
http://i.imgur.com/fwA8JBs.png
http://i.imgur.com/ltrXqGs.png
Another question: What coolant are you running? We've seen trucks come in with a mixture of god-knows-what in the cooling system. Hinos don't appear to be all that particular with what's run in them. They don't have normal wet liners, so they don't need additives to prevent liner pitting. They don't have copper in the cooling system, so they don't need the complex list of ingredients in green antifreeze. I'm not sure what the best easy to get solution is, but a HOAT coolant is what's supposed to go in them. If there's a questionable mix in there, I would drain it all (including at the block drain, located at the front of the oil cooler), add a couple jugs of your favorite flush solution, top it off with water, run it least half an hour after the temp gauge reaches the normal mark, then drain it all and refill with water and run it again, until hot, plus half an hour.
No one likes buying coolant that's a 50/50 mix. But when you get that, the water isn't from the tap, it's distilled and deionized. At the very least, stop buy the grocery store and get 4 gallons of distilled water.
We've seen no issues when running the Hino coolant, either the pink or the blue stuff. Pink goes in everything up to '11, blue goes into 11-14 conventionals. Pink goes in all new cabovers. I forget which is which, but one is good for 300k miles, and the other for 600k miles.
If the fan clutch is indeed working normally (and you'll definitely hear it cycle on and off), then that's good, a bad fan clutch will certainly cause an overheat.
When the thermostat was replaced, was the little tickler valve oriented at the very top? It's supposed to allow any air bubbles to escape from the thermostat housing and go to the radiator. Air pockets in the system will cause all sorts of dumb symptoms.
Now, onto the radiator. They can seem deceptively clean. Realistically, unbolt the condenser and move it out of the way (lines can stay attached), remove the intercooler (the bolts like to corrode, so avoid breaking them), and get a good look at the radiator.
You might end up with this scenario.
http://i.imgur.com/fwA8JBs.png
http://i.imgur.com/ltrXqGs.png
Another question: What coolant are you running? We've seen trucks come in with a mixture of god-knows-what in the cooling system. Hinos don't appear to be all that particular with what's run in them. They don't have normal wet liners, so they don't need additives to prevent liner pitting. They don't have copper in the cooling system, so they don't need the complex list of ingredients in green antifreeze. I'm not sure what the best easy to get solution is, but a HOAT coolant is what's supposed to go in them. If there's a questionable mix in there, I would drain it all (including at the block drain, located at the front of the oil cooler), add a couple jugs of your favorite flush solution, top it off with water, run it least half an hour after the temp gauge reaches the normal mark, then drain it all and refill with water and run it again, until hot, plus half an hour.
No one likes buying coolant that's a 50/50 mix. But when you get that, the water isn't from the tap, it's distilled and deionized. At the very least, stop buy the grocery store and get 4 gallons of distilled water.
We've seen no issues when running the Hino coolant, either the pink or the blue stuff. Pink goes in everything up to '11, blue goes into 11-14 conventionals. Pink goes in all new cabovers. I forget which is which, but one is good for 300k miles, and the other for 600k miles.
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Good to know, I'm gonna be doing a drain and flush pretty soon on my 03 sg right now it's looking like a dirty green.
The older trucks might have a brass radiator; if so, I'd flush it out and put green back in it, along with distilled water.
For those people who have stopped in (after discovering this thread on Google or elsewhere),
Please ask your questions here in this thread, so that others might benefit from the answers.
Im going to turn pm's off in the meantime.
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Please ask your questions here in this thread, so that others might benefit from the answers.
Im going to turn pm's off in the meantime.
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rhitrucking
Active Expediter
My 2008 338 is leaking from the right rear corner. I am not positive if its coolant or oil at this point. I am guessing coolant since my oil levels dont change and my coolant will drop a bit over 5k miles. Its never overheated. So I am guessing a head gasket is in order. Can I ask how big of a job and rough hours to complete job? I know all shops are different, but I am looking for a rough idea. Also I have heard of horror stories regarding the exhaust break taking out the turbo on this motor. My concern at this point is this truck will be used by an employee in the next few months. Is it possible and or a good idea to remove the exhaust break if never used anyway? I know its tied in to the DPR, but not sure if it is truely needed.
thanks for your time!
thanks for your time!
Hi there.
For some reason, the most common area for the head gasket to leak is at that right rear corner, just in front of the 'nook'. No one has a good explanation either.
It can leak both coolant and oil from this spot. It can also leak both coolant and oil from the oil cooler just in front of it.
I would take all of the shields and mudflaps and the right side fender off, and hose everything down very thoroughly with brake cleaner, then while the engine is dead cold, put about 15psi into the cooling system with a cooling system pressure tester. I'd look over the entire engine for coolant leaks. Check around each hose, at the water pump weep hole (inspection mirror or fiber optic inspection camera might be needed), the radiator tanks, the oil cooler, and the suspect area at the head. Chances are you'll find a couple of leaks. If the head gasket is leaking, well, not much can fix that besides a head gasket. I would take the time to actually pinpoint where it's coming from though. If it's just the oil cooler, that's not too bad. You have to take the turbo off to get to it. There's some bolts that you don't need to touch if you're taking the turbo off, so If you go in after the oil cooler, give me a heads up.
Hino gives 7 hours (warranty time) to R+R a head gasket. That is one of the most ludicrous time calculations I've ever seen. It's impossible to do it in twice that time, at least without horribly half-assing the whole job. Seriously, I'd budget 16-18 hours to change the head gasket.
The exhaust brake is an essential part of the DPR system. Without it, it will never be able to perform a parked regen. The ecu is adding fuel via post injection to get the exhaust hot, but it needs to be able to control engine rpm. It does this by turning on the brake.
If the adjusting screws on the exhaust brake have ever been fiddled with to make it work better, than it needs to go back to the dealer and get reset. It will only work correctly when set within a fairly narrow range. It is set by comparing fuel injection quantity at 980rpm with the brake on and off. They very recently revised this number downward, to 12mm3/stroke.
Really? What have you heard?
For some reason, the most common area for the head gasket to leak is at that right rear corner, just in front of the 'nook'. No one has a good explanation either.
It can leak both coolant and oil from this spot. It can also leak both coolant and oil from the oil cooler just in front of it.
I would take all of the shields and mudflaps and the right side fender off, and hose everything down very thoroughly with brake cleaner, then while the engine is dead cold, put about 15psi into the cooling system with a cooling system pressure tester. I'd look over the entire engine for coolant leaks. Check around each hose, at the water pump weep hole (inspection mirror or fiber optic inspection camera might be needed), the radiator tanks, the oil cooler, and the suspect area at the head. Chances are you'll find a couple of leaks. If the head gasket is leaking, well, not much can fix that besides a head gasket. I would take the time to actually pinpoint where it's coming from though. If it's just the oil cooler, that's not too bad. You have to take the turbo off to get to it. There's some bolts that you don't need to touch if you're taking the turbo off, so If you go in after the oil cooler, give me a heads up.
Hino gives 7 hours (warranty time) to R+R a head gasket. That is one of the most ludicrous time calculations I've ever seen. It's impossible to do it in twice that time, at least without horribly half-assing the whole job. Seriously, I'd budget 16-18 hours to change the head gasket.
The exhaust brake is an essential part of the DPR system. Without it, it will never be able to perform a parked regen. The ecu is adding fuel via post injection to get the exhaust hot, but it needs to be able to control engine rpm. It does this by turning on the brake.
If the adjusting screws on the exhaust brake have ever been fiddled with to make it work better, than it needs to go back to the dealer and get reset. It will only work correctly when set within a fairly narrow range. It is set by comparing fuel injection quantity at 980rpm with the brake on and off. They very recently revised this number downward, to 12mm3/stroke.
Really? What have you heard?
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