Hino FD 2008

Bruno De Sousa · Dec 18, 2017

Hi, the idling on my Hino FD 2008 just recently started playing up, but it doesn’t always do it, the idling goes down and up down and up, sometimes looks like it’s going to stall but it doesn’t, but if I switch it off and wait a little while then it doesn’t do it???
Also after that a few days ago, the truck lost acceleration, it comes and goes, any ideas what might be the problem?

BigStickJr · Dec 18, 2017

20 years ago I would have said it was sucking air.
With today’s engines, ..........?

Bruno De Sousa · Dec 18, 2017

Something tells me that it might be a faulty sensor???

Bruno De Sousa · Dec 18, 2017

It’s a Hino FD 1024, 500 Series 2008.

BigStickJr · Dec 18, 2017

There’s two good Hino mechanics that follow these threads.
They generally comment within 24 hours.
Considering the Holidays, they may have more pressing matters on their schedules.
Be patient, you won’t get better advice at this price anywhere.

Bruno De Sousa · Dec 18, 2017

Cheers mate

BigStickJr · Dec 19, 2017

It’s midnite here.
Cheers.

Bruno De Sousa · Dec 19, 2017

Any suggestions to what might be causing this symptom????
Please

BigStickJr · Dec 19, 2017

C’mon guys, help this guy.
The best logical answer in the next six hours will earn you a Bigstick Blooming Onion.

coalminer · Dec 19, 2017

Suction control valve is going bad more than likely not too difficult to replace

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Bruno De Sousa · Dec 19, 2017

Big thank you from Down Under, Australia BigStickJr, thank you for your support mate.
Love a group of mates that help each other out, that’s what it is all about mate.
Hard to find this days but great to witness.
It’s 12 am here now,

Hooroo

BigStickJr · Dec 19, 2017

Coalminer, thanks for helping an International member that isn’t dealing with a navistar Issue.

PM me an address and I’ll send you a gift certificate that’ll cover a blooming onion.

It’s Christmas, time to give.

Bruno De Sousa · Dec 19, 2017

Thank you Coalminer,
I’ve ordered a suction control valve, will give it a go
Just one question coalminer,
will I need to bleed the system after I replace the valve or is it just remove existing & fit new one and off you go?

coalminer · Dec 20, 2017

Bruno De Sousa said:
Thank you Coalminer,
I’ve ordered a suction control valve, will give it a go
Just one question coalminer,
will I need to bleed the system after I replace the valve or is it just remove existing & fit new one and off you go?

Once you install the new one it will self prime when you try to start it, might take a little bit of cranking but should be fairly quick. One other thing to look at is the rail limiter if the pressure reached the limit and it opened up to relieve it, that might be bad too, might have to pop the line off of that once it is running and see if anything comes out of it.

Greasy had written a while ago about one that he had seen that had the scv stuck open and he had to replace it and the rail limiter.

I had issues like you are seeing with the truck I had and once i replaced the scv it ran like new again.

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greasytshirt · Dec 20, 2017

I didn't see this thread until just now. The suction control valve, aka fuel pressure regulator, is a likely culprit, like Coalminer suggests. You're supposed to do a pump relearn after replacing it, but it will adjust itself.

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Bruno De Sousa · Dec 20, 2017

So it seems that I will be able to replace the SCV and get the truck started afterwards without too much trouble, right?
The SCV, should set itself, right?
Now, greasytshirt, when you talk about a pump relearn having to be carried out afterwards, does that involve some special tool or the truck having to be connected to a computer?
And it’s a must do job afterwards, the pump relearn?
I will keep you guys posted when the job gets done, hopefully the SCV it’s the culprit and the truck will run smoothly again,
Thank you boys and a Merry Christmas & Happy New year to you all,

Hooroo

greasytshirt · Dec 21, 2017

Bruno De Sousa said:
So it seems that I will be able to replace the SCV and get the truck started afterwards without too much trouble, right?
The SCV, should set itself, right?
Now, greasytshirt, when you talk about a pump relearn having to be carried out afterwards, does that involve some special tool or the truck having to be connected to a computer?
And it’s a must do job afterwards, the pump relearn?
I will keep you guys posted when the job gets done, hopefully the SCV it’s the culprit and the truck will run smoothly again,
Thank you boys and a Merry Christmas & Happy New year to you all,

Hooroo

Occasionally I run into a pump that will not relearn, and the advice given to me was to ignore it, that it's a function that will self learn after a few minutes of idling. An upper-tier diagnostic system is necessary to do this. My advice is to put it on and let it idle until the engine is warm.
Several seconds of cranking may be necessary to get the engine to fire after scv replacement. It will bleed the air from the system by itself.

Another thing that may cause these symptoms, sort of, is a bad connection at the scv, and at the rail pressure sensor. Give these sensor connectors a wiggle. If there's a bad connection, it will be immediately apparent. Rpm will jump all around and the engine will cough, cackle, and misfire.

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Bruno De Sousa · Dec 21, 2017

Thanks heaps greasytshirt

Bruno De Sousa · Dec 28, 2017

Greasytshirt & coalminer ive got 3 questions regarding the SCV replacement, hope you guys see this thread before next week, when I go ahead with the job;

1. Do you recommend disconnecting the battery terminals before I start replacing the SCV, or it makes no difference?

2. Will it be easy to remove the two bolts on the SCV with a warm or cold engine, or it makes no difference?

3. I was talking to this fella a couple days ago and he reckons tha the truck might be undrivible if I replace the SCV without carrying out a pump relearn, what do you say to this guys?
What’s the worst case scenario here?

I’m still waiting for the SCV, should get it next Wednesday and I’m really keen to get on with the job.

Thank you

Hooroo

coalminer · Dec 28, 2017

When I did mine I didn’t remove the battery terminals but it wouldn’t hurt if you did.

The engine was warm but not real warm when I pulled the bolts out I don’t think that matters much.

I never took mine to the dealer to do the relearn, heck I replaced the injectors and never had them coded into the ecm and it runs like new.

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