Hino 185 - no acceleration in gear

[aamar]

Hi Folks,
New member here, have been reading a lot of the posts here, and have found some great and helpful info from existing members and moderators.

I have a 2006 Hino 185, and I am experiencing issues with acceleration in gear. In neutral the acceleration appears to be fine, however when in drive or reverse or any gear there is very limited acceleration. From a complete stop when you accellerate, it takes about 10 seconds for the truck to move. And when it moves it slowly moves...once it picks up speed, it seems almost normal. When at a full stop on a hill it takes about 20 seconds to take off.
Other Symptoms include:
-Hard starting(used to start on first key, but now takes a few times to start)
-rough idle when in gear

I've read through countless posts on this site. Have had this scanned using Hino DX. There are no codes except a U1001 - Can communication failure. Aside from this there are no other codes.

Have changed the SCV, and there appears to be no difference.

Any suggestions on next steps would be greatly appreciated.
thanks,
Aamar

 

[greasytshirt]

Adjust the brake switch. Make sure the plunger is fully depressed with the pedal released. You can test by lifting the brake pedal gently with your left foot when you accelerate.

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[greasytshirt]

The hard start and rough idle are likely fuel supply problems, maybe. Several things can cause this.



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[aamar]

Adjust the brake switch. Make sure the plunger is fully depressed with the pedal released. You can test by lifting the brake pedal gently with your left foot when you accelerate.

Thanks for the quick response. This truck appears to have one of the ford style switches. Does not appear to be adjustable. Only one switch, forgot to mention I actually have replace it with a brand new one as well.

 

[aamar]

The hard start and rough idle are likely fuel supply problems, maybe. Several things can cause this.

The next thing I was thinking of doing was to run fuel straight from a jerry can. Any advice on how this should be done?

 

[greasytshirt]

Thanks for the quick response. This truck appears to have one of the ford style switches. Does not appear to be adjustable. Only one switch, forgot to mention I actually have replace it with a brand new one as well.

Check the brake light bulbs for broken filaments, check wiring for general crappiness, etc. If there is backfeed into brake light circuits it'll think the brakes are on and prevent acceleration.

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[greasytshirt]

The next thing I was thinking of doing was to run fuel straight from a jerry can. Any advice on how this should be done?

Take one of the banjo bolts off of the fuel filter*, get hose off of banjo fitting and put that directly onto the front of the injection pump.

*If it has that style.

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[Hino123]

I have seen this a couple of times on the older JO5 4CYL engines. You may have multiple issues here but your main complaint sounds like turbo lag. I am assuming you do not have access to Hino Software to check for boost pressure, intake air pressure and VNT response, so here are a few things you can check easily.
1. Remove the air intake and spin the Turbo-shaft, apply some side pressure to it and attempt to spin it. Spin it both ways if it feels like its dragging or binding at all I believe you have found your problem.
2. With the key off take a screwdriver, or pry-bar and attempt to move the VNT Turbo linkage down. Does it move freely? If you turn the key on it should come back up. Usually if the VNT has failed it will set a P0405 or a U0073 code but I have seen instances where this was not the case.
3. Remove the CAC (charge air cooler) pipe on the rh side, use a mirror to inspect the passages in the CAC. I have seen them plug solid with gunk, if they look heavily restricted CAC cleaning is suggested.
4. With all the piping re-connected, have a helper Stand on the throttle while you squeeze the CAC pipe on the RH side, then on the LH side. Does the pipe seem softer on the LH side? This can indicate a pressure drop or boost leak in the CAC, Do you notice a whistling noise coming from the CAC? If so spray it with soapy water and check for bubbles.
5. One last test is to make sure the truck is back together, remove the CAC pipe on the RH side at the CAC, have a helper rev the engine and put your hand over the CAC hose, When the turbo has spooled up it should be very hard to hold your hand over the hose, This is how I found the issue with the two trucks with similar symptoms. Neither had any codes, yet would take a mile to "get out of there own way" After 10-15 sec and boost finally came up they would "Take off" and then run fine at higher rpms, but as soon as you hit a red light they would fall on there face again. When placing my hand over the CAC I was almost able to stall the engine, on both I removed the turbos and found shafts hitching and binding. After replacement of the turbo and cleaning the CAC they both had normal acceleration. Good Luck.