E-Trac Placement

[Maverick]

For the vanners out there.

Need to arrange my trac a little different. The spacing is such that freight gets hung up between the rails. Thinking of moving them inward and run the freight right on top of them. The plan is to have them 30" apart measuring from center of both tracks....inward.

This catches the occasional 30" pallet and 90% of the time I'm crossing two straps on the freight anyway. Loads do not tend to slide and we have the L trac along the wall at the 3 ft and 6 ft height. I use these for strapping the ends of the freight.

Could grab a couple of these for placing outside this framework.
E-Track Single Anchor Point<br>Product Code: SLZ35

What do you all do? Got it removed now so any response would be of value. Thanks

 

[LDB]

I had a plywood strip along each side against the wheelwells then a row of etrack then a 24 inch strip of plywood between. The sides were a foot wide and cut to fit around the wheelwells. That maximized use of one sheet. I don't think I ever had a problem securing anything. Good luck.

Sent from my SCH-I605 using EO Forums mobile app

 

[Turtle]

I have the plywood deck and the E-track flush with each other, so freight cannot get hung up in the rails. Well, not exactly flush, as 1/2" plywood is slightly higher than the E-track.

1/2" plywood is actually 15/32 of an inch thick, or .468 inch. E-track thickness is .430 inch thick, so the E-track sits .38 of an inch below the plywood.

 

[Maverick]

Thanks for the responses. I see most, if not all, run the freight on the wood....as mentioned. I want to keep the weight down, so do you think running the track above the current material (thus having it laying on the tracks and secured well) is a good option?

The additional anchor points afforded by the L track on the walls does allow for strapping the ends of freight. I know it's not as ideal as the freight directly on the plywood......but is running the freight on top of the rails a violation....or ill advised?

 

[Moot]

I'm with Turtle, mount the E-track so it sits slightly below the plywood flooring. Leave enough space between the two rows of E-track to accommodate those small, 4-legged steel parts bins that are common to John Deere and others.

What are you currently using for flooring?

 

[Maverick]

What are you currently using for flooring?

That's the whole thing. The track is placed too near the wells and it creates a gap whereby a 40" pallet will fall inside if it's not loaded exact. Shoving the first one forward with the second.....will also cause it to wedge between the tracks.

The floor is some kind of composite but holds screws pretty well. I do not have the time or weight allowance to place plywood around the track. So, the track must be moved inward so the pallet does not fall between the two rails. It can't be half on and half off.

I keep having to tell shippers and consigns...."It's not your fault, I'll fix it when I get home" The question is this.......Is it Okay to run the freight on top of the tracks, not touching the floor at all?

Sorry, I may have worded it wrong in the OP.

 

[Maverick]

I'm with Turtle, mount the E-track so it sits slightly below the plywood flooring. Leave enough space between the two rows of E-track to accommodate those small, 4-legged steel parts bins that are common to John Deere and others.

What are you currently using for flooring?

Ut oh......Hmmmm, that kinda blows my plan. I see what you mean. My plan is blown unless at least a center piece of plywood becomes involved, in which case. one may as well do the whole thing.

 

[Moot]

You can certainly bring your E-track closer together, flush mount it and load pallets on top of it. You may find that the pallets will get hung up and or snag in the E-track punch-outs occasionally. Also unpalletized freight won't sit flat. Try it and see how it works for you. You can always redo it.

I understand not wanting to tear it up and start over, but that's what I would do. Sprinter?

 

[Maverick]

You can certainly bring your E-track closer together, flush mount it and load pallets on top of it. You may find that the pallets will get hung up and or snag in the E-track punch-outs occasionally. Also unpalletized freight won't sit flat. I understand not wanting to tear it up and start over, but that's what I would do. Sprinter?

E-350 Terra Max

12.5" wells and 49.5" between. I spent the first stint home creating the living space and the next trip home perfecting that, and adding the portable air. All the while, I noticed most everyone had the plywood and flush rails.....for good reason I fear.

All I've done now is removed the rails and waiting feedback. Looks like I'll have to place them back where they were, until I can do the plywood. Owner is great and won't even really have to ask. I'll just do it.

But, we'll have to decrease the weight allowance cause I was right on the edge the way it was. I'll probably go like it is for now as the port air and generator will be removed this fall.

Almost hate to say this but the anchor points on the Sprinter are one of the few things I liked about that set up.....right now.

 

[Turtle]

A 4x8 sheet of plywood only weighs about 50 pounds, depending on the wood species.

This isn't the ideal picture, but at least is gives you a good idea how I've got it done. E-track on the sides right up against the wheel wells, and a sheet of plywood cut to fit in between them. It's actually an 8 foot sheet, plus another one foot up near the bunk, for 9 feet of plywood floor space. The seam between the 8 and 1 foot sheets are filled in (with Bondo) and sanded smooth so nothing can get caught in it. The thumbnail below is clickable for a larger version.



The E-track and the plywood are mounted right in top of the original OEM wood composite flooring.


Another picture that's a little more detail on the floor and track.

 

[Maverick]

Looks like what I'll need to do Turtle, and good news on the 50 pound plywood weight.

The 160" depth would mean 13 feet of plywood totaling around 75 pounds. Generator and port air weigh around 150 combined. Got to make Fall, or cast off some ballast. Since I carry nothing extra, adding the plywood now, means dropping my weight capacity.

Anyone carry the air conditioning past Sept, Laredo aside?

 

[layoutshooter]

Looks like what I'll need to do Turtle, and good news on the 50 pound plywood weight.

The 160" depth would mean 13 feet of plywood totaling around 75 pounds. Generator and port air weigh around 150 combined. Got to make Fall, or cast off some ballast. Since I carry nothing extra, adding the plywood now, means dropping my weight capacity.

Anyone carry the air conditioning past Sept, Laredo aside?

I guess the AC question would depend on the individual. There has never been a month, since I have been in this business which is over 8 years, that we have NOT used our AC at least one or two nights. I would say that, overall, we use our AC more than we do heat, going by number of hours each would be used.

 

[Turtle]

E-Track is 5-inches wide. If the outer edges of the E-track are 48-inches apart, then you'll need a piece of plywood that is 38-inches wide to go between them. So, when you buy the plywood have them rip 10 inches off the long ends (or 9-inches if you want 49 inches between the outer edges). That's the easiest way to do it. Then, you lay the plywood down and position the E-track on either side, get it all lined up straight, and start screwing it all down.

Removing 9 or 10 inches from the 4x8 sheet, you can figure losing about 20% of the full-sheet weight.

That 50 pounds is for fir and pine. Hardwoods (birch, maple) will weigh 70 or 80 pounds. I do recommend sanded plywood, because it's smoother (duh) and will take a on Minwax Polycrylic or some other polyethylene or acrylic coating better, and thus stay harder longer.

 

[ebsprintin]

Going on six years without an air conditioner. I have an ac on board this season, but it is an experiment (not so functional). I have an Endless Breeze 12 volt fan from the fantastic vent people. It allowed me to sleep in until 1030 this morning in Laredo. It may not be fun, but I've come up with a system that works and haven't had to check into a motel in years.

As for the e-track...like others say, a plywood floor is a proven method. Not the only way to do it, but it is proven. Start basic then get creative.

eb

 

[LDB]

1/2" plywood is actually 15/32 of an inch thick, or .468 inch. E-track thickness is .430 inch thick, so the E-track sits .38 of an inch below the plywood.

I think it's .038 of an inch below the plywood. And that's how I had mine too.

 

[Maverick]

E-Track is 5-inches wide. If the outer edges of the E-track are 48-inches apart, then you'll need a piece of plywood that is 38-inches wide to go between them. So, when you buy the plywood have them rip 10 inches off the long ends (or 9-inches if you want 49 inches between the outer edges). That's the easiest way to do it. Then, you lay the plywood down and position the E-track on either side, get it all lined up straight, and start screwing it all down.

Removing 9 or 10 inches from the 4x8 sheet, you can figure losing about 20% of the full-sheet weight.

That 50 pounds is for fir and pine. Hardwoods (birch, maple) will weigh 70 or 80 pounds. I do recommend sanded plywood, because it's smoother (duh) and will take a on Minwax Polycrylic or some other polyethylene or acrylic coating better, and thus stay harder longer.

Valuable info Turtle, and thanks for the advice. I need to go out "as is" this time, but will use this info for the next trip home. Vanning is a two edged sword for me.....pain the rear, and fun at the same time.

Thanks again.

 

[Maverick]

Going on six years without an air conditioner. I have an ac on board this season, but it is an experiment (not so functional). I have an Endless Breeze 12 volt fan from the fantastic vent people. It allowed me to sleep in until 1030 this morning in Laredo. It may not be fun, but I've come up with a system that works and haven't had to check into a motel in years.

As for the e-track...like others say, a plywood floor is a proven method. Not the only way to do it, but it is proven. Start basic then get creative.

eb

Thanks for that reply. Vans get hot quick, and some can take the heat for sleeping. Melted iron and steel for 20 years, so I can take the heat, but don't like it.

It conflicts with my pillow.

Will most likely follow the advice from the seniors here. Thanks Turtle, Moot, and others for weighing in. Had to make a decision quick, and this forum was the place to go.

 

[Turtle]

I think it's .038 of an inch below the plywood. And that's how I had mine too.

Yeah, thanks. Left out a zero. Sorry about that.

Just to make it clear, .038 of an inch is 1/26th of an inch, a little more than 1/32nd, about one-point-two 32nd of an inch (1.2/32). It's not much, but it's just enough.

Over time the plywood will be friction-eroded and compressed by sliding freight in and out, so the wood and E-track eventually would be truly flush, or the deck even slightly lower than the E-track, but the 3-5 layers of Polycrylic applied once a year or so keeps the plywood deck ever so slightly higher than the E-track.

 

[LDB]

Well, when you leave out a zero you're not leaving out much.

 

[Murraycroexp]

I need to add plywood. But I've had two GREAT loads that would not have fit if I had it. Both were "Sprinter" loads that were measured wrong. One was about 135x49" and the other was 115x49.25" or so. And they were 800+ miles each. And not "adjustable". "Oops, we didn't account for that big a$$ motor mounted on top".
About 25-35% of what I haul is posted as a Sprinter load. Probably why my average loaded mile $ is so high. Makes up for the excessive deadheading home I do each week.
XCV with 144x52x49 @ 3189# rated capacity. No bulkhead, trimmed mat, no right seat, no floor surface. I just repaint the floor every 3 months. But the $1800+ off those two TALL loads more than pays for the two cans of paint quarterly.