DT 466 E No Start. Air in fuel?

[BobWolf]

I re, reexamined the fuel lines and found a moist spot not wet but its at a spot of surface rust on the line betwene the filter and fuel rail. Ofcorse it wasnt there yesterday so, a trip to the dealership, $90.00 for the 3 prebent fuel lines fuel inlet, to pump, to filter, to fuel rail, and three hours of drive time round trip. Totaly whiped out what daylight I had after reworking the filter assembly this morning after making an AM delivery.

I thought about bending my own lines but Somthing told me I should just bite the bullet and buy new prebent lines besides they should fit the first time.
Not crazy about the extra time and money but I have a gut feeling that if its not the primary cause its definately not helping, Besides Id rather it not fail on the road.
The idea of van work is looking better every day.

Ill be carefull with the dry starts, and Ill update tomorrow.
Thank you all for the advice.

Bob Wolf.

 

[SHARP327]

Bob if you still haven't found the problem!....there's a return fuel line that comes off the filter housing that returns unused fuel to the #2 tank....the #1 tank is the tank that supplies fuel to the engine....if the plastic fitting comes loose it'll cause the fuel line to loose it's prime....this fitting has two clips that fit into the groove of the housing and there's a (white) part of the clip that fits through the main clip that prevents the clip from coming loose....this sounds just like the problem I once had....as a temp. fix I used nylon pull straps to keep it in the fitting snug.

One other thing that'll cause this is a bad gasket on the filter it's self....this also happened to my truck.

 

[guido4475]

Bob if you still haven't found the problem!....there's a return fuel line that comes off the filter housing that returns unused fuel to the #2 tank....the #1 tank is the tank that supplies fuel to the engine....if the plastic fitting comes loose it'll cause the fuel line to loose it's prime....this fitting has two clips that fit into the groove of the housing and there's a (white) part of the clip that fits through the main clip that prevents the clip from coming loose....this sounds just like the problem I once had....as a temp. fix I used nylon pull straps to keep it in the fitting snug.

One other thing that'll cause this is a bad gasket on the filter it's self....this also happened to my truck.

Mr. Sharp is correct in telling you it could be a bad gasket or the fuel filter itself. I have had, actually, a bad fuel filter that was cracked at the housing where it meets the housing on the engine, therefore, letting air into the system. The whole thing is, it ran when you parked it, and you changed the fuel filter, and now it doesn't run, right? So the problem has to be within the fuel filter or the fuel system losing it's prime. It's gotta be something simple and stupid.

 

[BobWolf]

Still chasing the problem while trying to do van work,
Also, the last couple days its been 20 - 25 deg. F..
I started getting good fuel no air but I will check the filter. I have had the O ring rattle flat on a couple occasions and suck air so I carry a few in the truck and Zip tie the connector on for good measure. Make sure to clip the extra so it dosent look shabby. Carquest sells green teflon O rings for A/C work but they hold up better than rubber, and cheaper than the dealership. Make sure you warm them up in youre hand or in youre armpit if its cold they work easier. I am wondering, if It might be a fuel line, and will rubber fuel line hold up its easeir to handle in cold weather than plastic.

I pulled the hand primer and installed a plug the pump dosent seem to be doing anything, and dosent seem to build presure. Unplugged the injectors and cranked untill I have clear fuel at the shrader valve it will start to knock but not fire. Checked the wire harness and injectors for coninuity both seperately and plugged in. I dont show any resistance, I changed out the engine position sensor it covers both crank and cam position $25.00. Had one go a couple years ago had simular symptoms. Any way, I changed it not much for results. Do you think changing the filter May have been the death nail for the injectors? As far as I know theyer original 330,000 miles only one replaced last year.

If I pull the injectors and inspect them do I need to install a new hand pump or will I be OK if I reprime with the injectors unplugged and bleed the air out?
F.Y.I., most DT engines and Powerstrokes use the same 3 pin sensor 25 bucks at Carquest as compared to 250.00 dealership. and they last just as long.

Thanks again.
Bob Wolf

 

[SHARP327]

this may sound stupid but my International will not fire when the voltage is around 12.3 volts and as soon as I realize it's having a hard time I quit cranking it and spray a little starting fluid in the intake and she'll fire....rough but it'll fire...helps to have someone crank it while it's being sprayed.

 

[BobWolf]

Voltage makes sense, especialy since its cold and im sure the block heater is pulling on it.
I tried the go juice, it will knock but not fire Im going to pick up a new 200 amp booster I think my old faithful 50 amp is getting tired and all the extra cranking may hav weakened the bateries.

Bob Wolf.

 

[SHARP327]

a service manager at International once told me it takes a certain minimum of voltage to fire the ECM on these trucks, I can't elaborate on that...it's just something I heard

Good Luck

 

[Slo-Ride]

Bob not sure where ya stand with your repair but 1 way to find a suction leak is to pressurize the fuel tank and it should cause the spot to leak. Using clean/dry and low air pressure ya should be able to push fuel out of the p-up tank and into most of the lines.. 4 to 5lbs of regulated air should do it. Dont go to high pressure tho. Ya can seal the tank with rags and shoot air in but some sort of cap works best if you can make one.
Make sure your not filling the second tank tho..Use to be a day when ya could shut off the Xover lines but I think that may have changed with newer equipt..

Those bannana trucks out of Woodhaven have alot of troubles with a fuse thats connected to a electric p-up pump..Not sure if thats the type of system you have or not??
Hope ya get it worked out without sending it in on a hook.

 

[Stihlman88]

Hello I know this is an older thread but I just had this problem and we fought hard to figure it out. After replacing dpr valve we had a no start situation after replacing seals,lines,primer pump We still had tons of air!!! Come to find out the fuel filter housing itself will start leaking and suck air into system. About $700 dollars for filter housing and she primed and ran great. We always noticed them replaced on different motors and always wondered why...we got our answer