Heating / Cooling davis instruments air-dryr

MikeDamone

Not a Member
Researching
So I picked up a Nissan nv2500 and im about to start getting it ready to expedite. This van has insulation, but not ideal insulation. Its the kind that is stuffed in the gaps and holes in the wall with nothing adhering to the metal surface, which for the previous owner probably wasn't a problem since he didn't really run much heat in the winter, but im still planning on pulling the panels off and checking behind the insulation to check for any mold issues. Im planning on installing an espar, so I anticipate condensation issues. Im kicking around ideas on how to deal with it other than ripping the insulation out and using closed cell spray foam. Does anyone know much about something like either of these things. Im a bit confused on how it even works. Seems that it pulls moisture from the air and turns it into heat, which would just create more condensation.

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct...61E0kVnYoY1u5eazw&sig2=pSQHO0zt5qwTIduDmy7IHA


http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...yV4YtXhV-CNTacnQg&sig2=sc496zq2uRtrjoldLDzoHw
 

xiggi

Veteran Expediter
Owner/Operator
I have fiberglass insulation on my walls and never had any problem. I do have a ceiling fan sucking out most of the time and an espar does dry the air some. I do think sprayed foam is the best route but not because of moisture.

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RoadTime

Veteran Expediter
Owner/Operator
From my experience using an Espar, it already creates a very dry environment. So much that I've considered leaving open jars of water out to help raise the humidity. I've never had an issue with condensation using the Espar, so I don't see the value of those products. When I used a buddy heater, I could of used an umbrella sometimes
Just my 2 cents.


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brokcanadian

Veteran Expediter
Owner/Operator
An NV 2500? You must have got a deal...it won't break down much, but aren't they hard on gas?

If you get in sprayed foam, make sure they know what they're doing, don't use the diy kit...I ve heard of it turning to dust with vibration you don't want too breathe that stuff in, and spraying it is worse for your lungs, hard too get the environment right to cure it too

I don't know about it pulling moisture from the air...haven't heard that one...I'm planning on using foam board panels and blowing insulation into the hard to get areas with a shop vac, and using bubble wrap as a vapor barrier, simple and works

Cool air dryer units, I've never had a problem with mold tho and I used a catalytic propane heater whenever I wasn't to lazy to set it up, it would rain on me all night :D
 

MikeDamone

Not a Member
Researching
From my experience using an Espar, it already creates a very dry environment. So much that I've considered leaving open jars of water out to help raise the humidity. I've never had an issue with condensation using the Espar, so I don't see the value of those products. When I used a buddy heater, I could of used an umbrella sometimes
Just my 2 cents.


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I thought the condensation came from warm air coming into contact with a cold, metal ( or glass, for that matter ) surface? And since the insulation is adhered to the surface of the metal, warm air will get behind it, hit the cold surface and create condensation.
 

MikeDamone

Not a Member
Researching
An NV 2500? You must have got a deal...it won't break down much, but aren't they hard on gas?

If you get in sprayed foam, make sure they know what they're doing, don't use the diy kit...I ve heard of it turning to dust with vibration you don't want too breathe that stuff in, and spraying it is worse for your lungs, hard too get the environment right to cure it too

I don't know about it pulling moisture from the air...haven't heard that one...I'm planning on using foam board panels and blowing insulation into the hard to get areas with a shop vac, and using bubble wrap as a vapor barrier, simple and works

Cool air dryer units, I've never had a problem with mold tho and I used a catalytic propane heater whenever I wasn't to lazy to set it up, it would rain on me all night :D

Yeah, I did get a good deal on it. It was for sale in the classifieds not too long ago. It wasn't the ideal van I was wanting because its only has a 10 foot cargo capacity, but I really like not having monthly payments and having plenty of $ left over after the purchase, and I was a bit on the fence about going the fleet owner route. If expediting doesn't suit me, then ive got me a nice little camper van. The guy I bought it was was really nice. He has a custom, side mount fold down bed that clips into the side e-track, a 10 foot piece of extra e track and plenty of straps that he sold me for just 40 extra bucks.( the extras, not the van, lol.) 275k miles, but all expedite. Runs like a champ, just drove to Columbus OH and back with not a single issue. Engine and drive train wise you would think it was nearly new. Driving comfort is decent, but you can feel the miles.

So is it that the espar creates enough air circulation to not allow condensation to form? Is that what im understanding. Oh, speaking of espar, ive heard some things, (and these are probably just people being babies,) but what kind of safety profile does a gasoline powered espar have?

Oh, and gas milage, if you keep your foot out of it I made a round trip from Evansville, IN to Columbus, Oh roughly a thank and a qurter tank. 27 gallon tank. So I would estimate about 19-20mgs in the low 60s. That was without a load, though. We'll see how much that plummets with a couple thousand pounds.
 

brokcanadian

Veteran Expediter
Owner/Operator
but I really like not having monthly payments and having plenty of $ left over after the purchase,
Winner! You've done your research, and you'll like it, I'm way too hung up on MPG cause I could count on my former company to send me out and leave me to deadhead back.

In my experience, a vapor barrier taped in with that red stuff causes the condensation where you can see it, and it's from inside...you'll never take out all the moisture from the air, your vents and vehicle aren't completely sealed...if youre that worried leave a panel loose and peek behind the insulation next time you see drops in the walls or ceiling, I bet there's nothing in the body skin...
I guess that's because the buddy doesn't really circulate air that well?
A byproduct of propane catalytic furnaces is moisture, and they made a lot
 

xiggi

Veteran Expediter
Owner/Operator
So you run your fantastic and the espar at the same time?
Not for the most part just while.cooking or might open it without the fan running if it gets to hot and I don't want to get up I'll grab the remote and open the hood. The espar will dry the air plenty you should have no problem.

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RoadTime

Veteran Expediter
Owner/Operator
I thought the condensation came from warm air coming into contact with a cold, metal ( or glass, for that matter ) surface? And since the insulation is adhered to the surface of the metal, warm air will get behind it, hit the cold surface and create condensation.

Oh, and im not trying to be argumentative, im just not quite understanding.

Not my area of expertise, but sounds right in your explanation. That's why I stayed away from putting any type of insulation against the metal that could absorb any possible condensation created, and made sure what I did use was microcrobial resistant. If there is condensation being created with the espar, I wouldn't know without pulling off the insulation. So far, I've seen nothing to indicated a condensation issue, but the inside will be very dry. That's why I think a device to remove moisture on the inside would not help.
(Referring to the products you linked)
 
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MikeDamone

Not a Member
Researching
I thought the condensation came from warm air coming into contact with a cold, metal ( or glass, for that matter ) surface? And since the insulation is adhered to the surface of the metal, warm air will get behind it, hit the cold surface and create condensation.

Oh, and im not trying to be argumentative, im just not quite understanding.

Not my area of expertise, but sounds right in your explanation. That's why I stayed away from putting any type of insulation against the metal that could absorb any possible condensation created, and made sure what I did use was microcrobial resistant. If there is condensation being created with the espar, I wouldn't know without pulling off the insulation. So far, I've seen nothing to indicated a condensation issue, but the inside will be very dry. That's why I think a device to remove moisture on the inside would not help.

Yeah there are a few spots ( sliding door, rear doors ) that aren't insulated. If I see no condensation build up on those spaces, I think ill be good.
 

MikeDamone

Not a Member
Researching
Oh, and as far as safety on the gasoline powered espars, what do you guys think. Im sure most of you are probably using diesel.
 
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