Check it out and tell me!!

EGG_1705 · Mar 18, 2014

Alright so I had to do this before doing anything else, I see my answer pretty clear, replacing the motor, tell me if you agree!! Thank you.

Murraycroexp · Mar 18, 2014

Shut it off!!! LOL!!
Stuck piston in the valve in the oil pump?
Just a guess. But don't restart it. Not even to see if it still does it.
Just one opinion.

EGG_1705 · Mar 24, 2014

So I just need to take a look at oil pump and replace it, not the engine?

billg27 · Mar 24, 2014

So, the oil pressure gauge reads max 80 psi with the engine not even running? First you need to get that fixed. Sending unit or bad gauge? Or hook up a direct oil pressure monitor. Then see what it really has for oil pressure. Does it run and drive good? The noise could be an ac compressor or water pump bearing. I noticed you still had the lower short belt spinning the ac compressor.

FlyingVan · Mar 24, 2014

I would definitely do some more investigation before replacing the engine. It might not be that bad in the end.

billg27 · Mar 24, 2014

Also I see your check engine light is on. Did you check the codes? What are they?

LDB · Mar 24, 2014

Call Click and Clack, the Tappet Brothers, and ask them during their show on Saturday.

Turtle · Mar 24, 2014

LDB said:
Call Click and Clack, the Tappet Brothers, and ask them during their show on Saturday.

They've been in edited reruns for nearly two years.

EGG_1705 · Mar 24, 2014

No the lower short belt it's not hooked up I made sure of that, however I think the gauge may not be working properly

EGG_1705 · Mar 24, 2014

It didn't have any check engine light on before taking the air flow sensor off to remove the filter case and all that, that's probably why is that light on. No misfire and it runs perfect, I don't see it missing power or nothing

Mailer · Mar 24, 2014

The old mechanic's trick. Get a long piece of wooden stick. Place one end close to the moving part(not on the moving part), and the other end to your ear.

You might be able to pin point the location of the noises.

Be extremely careful, you could loose your ear.

RLENT · Mar 24, 2014

Mailer said:
The old mechanic's trick. Get a long piece of wooden stick. Place one end close to the moving part(not on the moving part), and the other end to your ear.

You might be able to pin point the location of the noises.

Be extremely careful, you could loose your ear.

Mechanics stethoscope, regularly $4.99, currently on sale for $2.99, at Harbor Freight Tools:

Mechanic's Stethoscope

MLTransCorp · Apr 5, 2014

billg27 said:
So, the oil pressure gauge reads max 80 psi with the engine not even running? First you need to get that fixed. Sending unit or bad gauge? Or hook up a direct oil pressure monitor. Then see what it really has for oil pressure. Does it run and drive good? The noise could be an ac compressor or water pump bearing. I noticed you still had the lower short belt spinning the ac compressor.

EGG_1705 said:
Alright so I had to do this before doing anything else, I see my answer pretty clear, replacing the motor, tell me if you agree!! Thank you.

The oil pressure sending unit is at the rear of the engine driver side behind the doghouse. Remove doghouse, disconnect the electrical plug from the sending unit. Turn key on. Do not start. Guage should go to full scale. Then to zero with no connection to sending unit. If it goes back up to full scale (pegs) the problem is in the dash, that is the total instrument cluster. A new cluster is about 450.00. There are third parties where you can send the cluster and they will repair. If the gauge goes to zero and then stays there. The problem is the sending unit, available at O'Rielly's or the Zone for about 65.00. There is a problem with the oil pump in these units, I am on my second oil pump on my 2005 with about 475,000 on it. This time putting m365 pump in (high volume, high pressure), it seems that the pump can such the relief valve down and then not build the pressures it should. Pressure tapers off as it warms up , or not at all if the relief is stuck in bypass mode.

sent from S4 using EO

Rising_Cow · Apr 5, 2014

If it is the gauge, just buy one for $25 or so and mount somewhere, cheaper that the cluster and more accurate (if you buy a good one) summit or jegs or any speed shop will have them in many types.

MLTransCorp · Apr 7, 2014

MLTranaCorp said:
The oil pressure sending unit is at the rear of the engine driver side behind the doghouse. Remove doghouse, disconnect the electrical plug from the sending unit. Turn key on. Do not start. Guage should go to full scale. Then to zero with no connection to sending unit. If it goes back up to full scale (pegs) the problem is in the dash, that is the total instrument cluster. A new cluster is about 450.00. There are third parties where you can send the cluster and they will repair. If the gauge goes to zero and then stays there. The problem is the sending unit, available at O'Rielly's or the Zone for about 65.00. There is a problem with the oil pump in these units, I am on my second oil pump on my 2005 with about 475,000 on it. This time putting m365 pump in (high volume, high pressure), it seems that the pump can suck the relief valve down, especially if there is any gunk buildup on the suction screen, and then not build the pressure it should. Pressure tapers off as it warms up , or not at all if the relief is stuck in bypass mode.

sent from S4 using EO

sent from S4 using EO