We were wondering if anyone has any storage suggestions for cargo vans? We bought a used GMC, already has metal wall w/door behind the seats and e-track installed. We're thinking about everything that needs to be taken and running out of space. We built a wooden box with a lift up cushion top-will hold clothing plus double for sleeping on the bucket seats. We've gotten some thin plastic storage containers with compartments for the little things to slide in the doors but we can't come up with any ideas for where to store bedding, food (where it won't get too warm)etc. Any suggestions? Thanks!!!:7
cargo van storage
- Thread starter Mrand Mrs
- Start date
Tom Robertson
Veteran Expediter
Hi
Sorry it has taken me so long to reply...
Seems like you haven't gooten much help on this so I'll give it a try.
I have three vans on the road and maybe a couple of suggestions for you.
You will rarely if ever use any of the space in your van above and from the front of your wheel wells to the rear of the van: on most vans that is between 8 and 9 inches in width, approx 48 inches in heigth and the length will depend on whether you have a standard or extented lenth model. So think thin! Think portable.
The best design I have used for bedding is simple but requires a little work on your part.
1. use a 1 x 10" board turned vertically and cut to length to the front of each wheel well. Screw the boards onto the wheel well using self taping screws, with an application of clear fast drying silicone. Use screws long enough to fully penetrate the wheel well but only poking through about 1/4 to 1/2 inch on the other side. The silicone will seal the hole and keep it from leaking when driving on wet pavement. You will have to brace the back of each board with another piece of wood screwed into the edging of the door frames. This will serve as a base for your bed to sit on.
2. The foundation of your bed will be a piece of 3/4 plywood covered in a lightweight auto carpet like material sold at Home Depot for a very resonable price. Simply use a staple gun to attach this material to the underside of your foundation. Do not use staples on the side you will be lying on. (more on that later) This foundation should measure approximately 39" to 40" in width and long enough to span side to side the boards you have already attached to the wheel wells and door frames.
*** (make certain that the width of your foundation will store vertically against the wall in front of your wheel wells. Use a couple of bunji cords to keep the foundation and mattress secure when hauling freight.
Your foundation will be approx 11" off the floor and once you place your mattress on top you will find it comforatble to sit on, much better than sleeping or sitting on the floor. On the underside of your foundation, use two large hinges that will fold flat when not in use. Screw one side of the hinge to the foundation, and the other to another piece of the 1 x 10 cut the same width as your foundation. Place this attachment in the center of your foundation. At each end of the foundation you will screw another cutiing of the 1 x 10, a narrow strip about 1" wide, so that your foundation cannot slip between the boards attached to your wheel wells. Place the foundation from side to side keeping the end pieces on the outside of your boards. Fold down the center support on your hinges and you now have a foundation that I know will support a man who weighed about 270#s. Drill two holes in each vertical 1 x 10 and find a metal pin which can be placed into each hole. The pins will keep your foundation from sliding forward when braking or backward when accelerating. (assuming team drivers)
Are you visualizing this? You will be lying over the axel of the van and unless you are 6' tall or taller and sleep fully extended you will find the area comfortable for sitting and sleeping.
3. mattress chices... My drivers have used three different options.
sleeping bag.... warm but not much padding
air mattress... more comfortable but can be punctured... (remember the staples mentioned earlier?)
foam mattress... have you seen the commercials for Tempurpedic mattresses? You know where one person is jumping on the bed while a glass of wine is on another part of the mattress? This system is truly a dream to sleep on... we have it. Well the reason I mention this is many different companies now make a knock off of this brand name using "space age" heat forming foam. Many also make a mattress topper that is only 4" thick. (remember I said think thin?) While a bit more expensive than the other options, this system may be more comfotable than the bed you sleep on at home! Buy a twin size mattress topper (75" x 38") the addiitonal length can be trimmed to fit the foundation or left alone. If left alone standard size linens will fit and the additional length will simply fold vertically along the sides of the van, serving as a head and foot board! Works fine if you sleep in a slight curve or if you are under 5' 10" tall. This will store to the inside of you foundation, forward of your wheel wells when not being used.
ok thats your bed... now the area enclosed on the outside of the wheel wells can be used to store any item less than 8" in width. Use bunji cords to secure any item that extends well beyond the 10" in height. Use this area for food storage as well.
if you need more space consider getting a roof mounted weather proof contianer to store items that are used infrequently. It is a pain getting items into and out of.
I hope this helps you...
please advise if you have further questions
Tom Robertson
Sorry it has taken me so long to reply...
Seems like you haven't gooten much help on this so I'll give it a try.
I have three vans on the road and maybe a couple of suggestions for you.
You will rarely if ever use any of the space in your van above and from the front of your wheel wells to the rear of the van: on most vans that is between 8 and 9 inches in width, approx 48 inches in heigth and the length will depend on whether you have a standard or extented lenth model. So think thin! Think portable.
The best design I have used for bedding is simple but requires a little work on your part.
1. use a 1 x 10" board turned vertically and cut to length to the front of each wheel well. Screw the boards onto the wheel well using self taping screws, with an application of clear fast drying silicone. Use screws long enough to fully penetrate the wheel well but only poking through about 1/4 to 1/2 inch on the other side. The silicone will seal the hole and keep it from leaking when driving on wet pavement. You will have to brace the back of each board with another piece of wood screwed into the edging of the door frames. This will serve as a base for your bed to sit on.
2. The foundation of your bed will be a piece of 3/4 plywood covered in a lightweight auto carpet like material sold at Home Depot for a very resonable price. Simply use a staple gun to attach this material to the underside of your foundation. Do not use staples on the side you will be lying on. (more on that later) This foundation should measure approximately 39" to 40" in width and long enough to span side to side the boards you have already attached to the wheel wells and door frames.
*** (make certain that the width of your foundation will store vertically against the wall in front of your wheel wells. Use a couple of bunji cords to keep the foundation and mattress secure when hauling freight.
Your foundation will be approx 11" off the floor and once you place your mattress on top you will find it comforatble to sit on, much better than sleeping or sitting on the floor. On the underside of your foundation, use two large hinges that will fold flat when not in use. Screw one side of the hinge to the foundation, and the other to another piece of the 1 x 10 cut the same width as your foundation. Place this attachment in the center of your foundation. At each end of the foundation you will screw another cutiing of the 1 x 10, a narrow strip about 1" wide, so that your foundation cannot slip between the boards attached to your wheel wells. Place the foundation from side to side keeping the end pieces on the outside of your boards. Fold down the center support on your hinges and you now have a foundation that I know will support a man who weighed about 270#s. Drill two holes in each vertical 1 x 10 and find a metal pin which can be placed into each hole. The pins will keep your foundation from sliding forward when braking or backward when accelerating. (assuming team drivers)
Are you visualizing this? You will be lying over the axel of the van and unless you are 6' tall or taller and sleep fully extended you will find the area comfortable for sitting and sleeping.
3. mattress chices... My drivers have used three different options.
sleeping bag.... warm but not much padding
air mattress... more comfortable but can be punctured... (remember the staples mentioned earlier?)
foam mattress... have you seen the commercials for Tempurpedic mattresses? You know where one person is jumping on the bed while a glass of wine is on another part of the mattress? This system is truly a dream to sleep on... we have it. Well the reason I mention this is many different companies now make a knock off of this brand name using "space age" heat forming foam. Many also make a mattress topper that is only 4" thick. (remember I said think thin?) While a bit more expensive than the other options, this system may be more comfotable than the bed you sleep on at home! Buy a twin size mattress topper (75" x 38") the addiitonal length can be trimmed to fit the foundation or left alone. If left alone standard size linens will fit and the additional length will simply fold vertically along the sides of the van, serving as a head and foot board! Works fine if you sleep in a slight curve or if you are under 5' 10" tall. This will store to the inside of you foundation, forward of your wheel wells when not being used.
ok thats your bed... now the area enclosed on the outside of the wheel wells can be used to store any item less than 8" in width. Use bunji cords to secure any item that extends well beyond the 10" in height. Use this area for food storage as well.
if you need more space consider getting a roof mounted weather proof contianer to store items that are used infrequently. It is a pain getting items into and out of.
I hope this helps you...
please advise if you have further questions
Tom Robertson
Great ideas Tom. I want to throw in a couple of my fav pics here... from the thread on deiseldoctors OLD van.... they really gave me ideas....
His bed folded up along the wall.. me being a 'lil' over 6 ft, I need that room, so it would be the way to go for me. My old van had the crossways "Alumibunk" style bed, and I had to sleep in an "S" >>LOL...
Dreamer
His bed folded up along the wall.. me being a 'lil' over 6 ft, I need that room, so it would be the way to go for me. My old van had the crossways "Alumibunk" style bed, and I had to sleep in an "S" >>LOL...
Dreamer
theoldprof
Veteran Expediter
Would a guy flying solo in a cargo van ever have the occasion to sleep with a load in the van? :+ :+
sure. Quite often you'll arrive at delivery point in the evening and have to wait til morning to unload. Or, perhaps a fri pickup and monday delivery. Or, you've got a couple of hours cushion to take a break in a rest area, a bed beats sleeping behind the wheel
Tom Robertson
Veteran Expediter
The system I mentioned above also allows you to place the foundaton on top of some of the shorter skids you may haul. You may have very little head room from time to time, but it beats sleeping in the seat!
The fixed system mentioned by another responder would not allow you to use the bed under load.
Portability in the restricted area of a cargo van allows greater flexibility to accomodate various size loads.
Once again.... if you have any questions, just ask!
Tom Robertson
The fixed system mentioned by another responder would not allow you to use the bed under load.
Portability in the restricted area of a cargo van allows greater flexibility to accomodate various size loads.
Once again.... if you have any questions, just ask!
Tom Robertson
True Tom... you would be giving up being able to sleep under load with the side mount bed...
I've wondered if it would be possible to do both somehow... have some kind of cross ways bed for when under load, then the fold up bed for layovers. Probably too much hassle and weight added. Just have to compromise one way or the other...
Dieseldoctors NEW van, with the bed that cranks straight up is probably the closest practicle thing.
Dreamer
I've wondered if it would be possible to do both somehow... have some kind of cross ways bed for when under load, then the fold up bed for layovers. Probably too much hassle and weight added. Just have to compromise one way or the other...
Dieseldoctors NEW van, with the bed that cranks straight up is probably the closest practicle thing.
Dreamer
Fr8 Shaker
Veteran Expediter
Mr.and Mrs. You didn't mention if your van was a standard or extended. I hope extended. Anyway, Mine is extended and i have a bed built in there going lengthwise behind the seats (basisally a box built to fit with a mattress on top) which is all storage underneath. the bed is 33 1/2" wide and the mattress was made to order at the mattress outlet which has a wood frame and 8" of foam for a 100 bucks. I have 8' 6 1/2" from the bed to the rear doors.
the bed frame or (box) that the mattress sits on was constructed of 2x4's and 1/2' plywood. it has one end side toward the side doors which was left open to have access for storage and I also hinged the top so as to gain access to storage from the inside, from the cab area. I do run as a team and luckily my girlfriend and I are both thin. I am 6' tall and she is 5'9" and we both fit fairly comfortably though I do stretch wall to wall. ( BUT ) another thing that I had done was I picked up a double hammock at wal-mart for 16.88 in their camping section. and you hang this inside kidde -corner in the van putting the S-hooks in those square holes in the top frame. BTW stop at home depot and pick up the 3" S-hooks for the hammock. you will need those, their a buck something a piece. I'll tell you this hammock is comfy. LOL. My girlfriend and I lay on it together and set the tv up on the bed and watch movies together.
P.S
whether the bed or the hammock you better like to cuddle. LOL.
Best of Luck,
Fr8 Shaker
the bed frame or (box) that the mattress sits on was constructed of 2x4's and 1/2' plywood. it has one end side toward the side doors which was left open to have access for storage and I also hinged the top so as to gain access to storage from the inside, from the cab area. I do run as a team and luckily my girlfriend and I are both thin. I am 6' tall and she is 5'9" and we both fit fairly comfortably though I do stretch wall to wall. ( BUT ) another thing that I had done was I picked up a double hammock at wal-mart for 16.88 in their camping section. and you hang this inside kidde -corner in the van putting the S-hooks in those square holes in the top frame. BTW stop at home depot and pick up the 3" S-hooks for the hammock. you will need those, their a buck something a piece. I'll tell you this hammock is comfy. LOL. My girlfriend and I lay on it together and set the tv up on the bed and watch movies together.
P.S
whether the bed or the hammock you better like to cuddle. LOL.
Best of Luck,
Fr8 Shaker
theoldprof
Veteran Expediter
Fr8 Shaker,
You said your bunk is lengthwise behind the seat. Is is crosswise with the truck? Is your head at one side of the van and your feet at the other side when in the bunk? I assume your bed is permanent. Do you ever have occasion to have a load take up all the room from rear doors to front seats? With all the stuff in the cab, do you have walk or crawl thru access from the cab to the bedroom? Do you want or need access, or do you get out of the cab and walk around to the side door of the van? Thanks
You said your bunk is lengthwise behind the seat. Is is crosswise with the truck? Is your head at one side of the van and your feet at the other side when in the bunk? I assume your bed is permanent. Do you ever have occasion to have a load take up all the room from rear doors to front seats? With all the stuff in the cab, do you have walk or crawl thru access from the cab to the bedroom? Do you want or need access, or do you get out of the cab and walk around to the side door of the van? Thanks
Fr8 Shaker
Veteran Expediter
Sorry, I did mean crosswise, My bed is permanent and I can either crawl in from the cab or use the side or rear doors. Most companys require you to have 8'6" of cargo space so that you can haul 2 full 4x4x4 skids.
Fr8 Shaker
Fr8 Shaker
theoldprof
Veteran Expediter
Have you ever had the occasion to haul THREE 4X4X4 skids, or would that automatically go to a larger truck? :+ :+
Fr8 Shaker
Veteran Expediter
Well you would have to have an extended van with a full 12' behind the seats with nothing else back there. it is possible but chances are they would probably call in a larger truck to make sure there wouldn't any problems.
Fr8 Shaker
Fr8 Shaker
>This seems awefully inconvenient to me sleeping in a van
>like this. Are van drivers out on the road that much they
>need a sleeper? I thought they were more for local type
>stuff?
NO WAY.. they run just as much as trucks. When I ran mine, I only stayed out about a week or so. That was because of the fact that where I live, is right in the heart of Expedite Country, as it were! I ran by my house at least 2 or 3 times a week, whether I stopped by or not.. LOL.
I know some who stay out longer. If it's set up right, its no dif, and a lot cheaper to run. I'm a big fan of vans!
Dreamer
>like this. Are van drivers out on the road that much they
>need a sleeper? I thought they were more for local type
>stuff?
NO WAY.. they run just as much as trucks. When I ran mine, I only stayed out about a week or so. That was because of the fact that where I live, is right in the heart of Expedite Country, as it were! I ran by my house at least 2 or 3 times a week, whether I stopped by or not.. LOL.
I know some who stay out longer. If it's set up right, its no dif, and a lot cheaper to run. I'm a big fan of vans!
Dreamer
My old van, and probably the new one when I get it, used a bunk crosswise behind the seats. 24 inches wide, 3/4 inch plywood resting on 2x4 brackets bolted into e-track load locks. It had a custom made foam sleeper, slept like a log. I usually left it up and could sleep there on all-night runs for naps, also during times when I had a load that I had to keep over a weekend or overnight at the receiver. If I needed extra room, the mattress sat on edge behind the seats, plywood up next to it, wood brackets came out of the e-track and got stuck somewhere, such as the step-well at the side loading doors. Only took a minute to set-up or tear down the bunk system. Then I had lots of load room for longer loads, and if I knew I would have to sleep with a longer load, I got a motel. But I made sure the company paid toward the motel, or that I earned enough extra on the load to cover it. Probably only one load in 20 that I needed the last two feet of cargo space, and very few of those required holding the load over night or over a weekend.
One modification I will make. The brackets were only about 2 feet wide and I had one in each e-track, so one on each side of the vanwith the plywood board extending across the van from one bracket to the other. Next time I'll make them so that each sit crosswise in the van, with one end in the passenger side e-track, and the other end in the driver side e-track. That way I can move them as far apart as I want, put the plywood on lenthwise instead of crosswise, and sleep lengthwise when space permits so I can really stretch out, and so the brackets can also be used as moveable and elevated load bars, which will be handy for barrels and other odd-shaped freight. I had a small wire three shelf stand that fit nicely
next to the wheel wells (got it at Crate and Barrel, or similar place)
and stored my non-perishable food and plasticware on it. Bungie-cords, of course. Golf bag bungied to the opposite wall near wheel-wells. I didn't worry about keeping food cold....with a van, you can just pull into the grocery store and buy cold stuff whenever you need it.
One modification I will make. The brackets were only about 2 feet wide and I had one in each e-track, so one on each side of the vanwith the plywood board extending across the van from one bracket to the other. Next time I'll make them so that each sit crosswise in the van, with one end in the passenger side e-track, and the other end in the driver side e-track. That way I can move them as far apart as I want, put the plywood on lenthwise instead of crosswise, and sleep lengthwise when space permits so I can really stretch out, and so the brackets can also be used as moveable and elevated load bars, which will be handy for barrels and other odd-shaped freight. I had a small wire three shelf stand that fit nicely
next to the wheel wells (got it at Crate and Barrel, or similar place)
and stored my non-perishable food and plasticware on it. Bungie-cords, of course. Golf bag bungied to the opposite wall near wheel-wells. I didn't worry about keeping food cold....with a van, you can just pull into the grocery store and buy cold stuff whenever you need it.
Hello All, I have reading all these posts on van sleepers, and it raises a big question to all van owners. I had a E-350 Ford exteneded van with an Alumi-Bunk sleeper. It was completely enclosed from cargo area, and I could haul two GM skids easily. My question is "and this happened to me when I first started out" Have you ever got a load of machined parts with the cutting oil still on them? The smell is Horrible, I don't see how anyone could sleep, let alone drive any great distance with this smell. Thank God For Alumi- Bunk Sealed sleeper. Just my Opinion for what its worth. Drive Safely...Butch