Let's say I have 1500.00 to spend? The battery will probably be toward 300.00. Etrac and plywood has to be done now @ 200.00?
The cranking battery is for the engine. Use it for that and nothing else. The aux battery is for everything else. That's the reason for the battery isolator, to keep them separated, except when you're charging them.
If your cranking battery is a wet cell (or "maintenance free"), then you want the same battery type as your aux battery. You don't want an AGM for an aux battery, because wet cells and AGMs require different charging voltages. AGM batteries require a higher voltage, and if the alternator is producing the correct voltage for the cranking battery, then the AGM will always be chronically undercharged. The last thing you want to do is spend $400 on an AGM battery and then promptly set out to kill it. If you get an AGM aux battery, then you need to get an AGM cranking battery, as well. That way the charging voltage will be correct for both batteries.
Unless your amp hour requirements are high enough, then you don't need a $300 or $400 high dollar battery. All you'll need is a cheap marine or truck battery, about 100 Ah, about $125 give or take. Ideally you should get something like a
Xantrex LinkLITE Battery Monitor to monitor the house battery to ensure it's charging properly and that you don't discharge it more than 50%. The battery monitor is a couple hundred dollars, but it's definitely worth it for high dollar batteries, and it'll pay for itself with cheap batteries when your cheap battery lasts 3 or 4 years instead of 18 months.
I do recommend using a
battery mat under the house battery bank. It's a felt-looking absorbent material that soaks up and neutralizes any spilled electrolyte. Awesome stuff.
There's the Xantrex LinkPro for monitoring two battery banks (like on a boat), and the LinkLite for monitoring one bank. The LinkLite is all anyone out here needs. I'd recommend the
Xantrex temperature sensor which monitors the temperature of the house battery, so that it's readings and calculations are more accurate due to temperature compensation. But it's certainly not
needed.
You'll need the
wiring to connect the monitor and shunt to the battery bank. Like the monitor itself, it's incredibly overpriced, but also like the monitor, worth every penny. If you're an electrician you don't need the kit, as you can just rig up any 3-pair twisted wire (6 wires) to connect things. But the connection kit comes with all the right connectors, fuses and color coded wire to make installation brain-dead simple.
BTW, I'm not necessarily recommending that any of that stuff be bought at those particular links. They may or may not be the cheapest at those links.
The Buddy is pretty safe so I'll stick with it for now. The silly thing to do is buy something you cannot squeeze in at the moment. Sure, it will cost me more money now.....but better to spend within means, than to get in too deep.
It actually won't cost you that much right now. You've already got the Buddy heater, so concentrate on the more important priorities for the moment.
First thing is to ensure that it's well insulated. It's a lot easier to do that before you do anything else, rather than trying to come back and deal with it later. Next figure out your layout for hauling freight, since that's the most important thing we do out here. Once that's laid out (first on paper, I'd recommend) you'll know what you have room for in a bed, where to put your house battery, wiring (and a busbar if you use one), inverter, battery monitor, where you're going to store clothes and stuff.
Get the plywood and the E-track down (they're cheap), then go from there.