Just a check in here, I chickened out and changed the oil at 16,000 (mobil 1 European 0w40) but it says I have 2000 miles left, which would probably end up being 4000...timed change or trust assyst? Oil analysis, I'd rather just change it...
Assyst -18000 miles?
- Thread starter brokcanadian
- Start date
I don't blame you. Mine is a 2012 Sprinter and I use the ESP low ash mobil 1oil. It's says 10k to change, but I go 15k. There has been a couple of times I've got to 20k and the oil was black. I didn't like seeing that.
Oh the oil was definitely black...but I did not use a drop between changes...
I saw some talk about MB going to 10,000 mile changes, that's part of why I'm asking...do they want money or do the engines actually benefit...
I saw some talk about MB going to 10,000 mile changes, that's part of why I'm asking...do they want money or do the engines actually benefit...
I didn't need to add oil also. On my it's 10k to change the oil. I've heard the new ones are saying up to 20k for a oil change. IMO the ones like mine that says 10k to change oil it's about money. But I think fresh oil and clean oil is always best.
My 2015 says I should change the oil at 20k. I changed it at 18k and it was black. So I'm gonna start doing 15.
Well mine was black at 2000 miles...
...that could get expensive...not worried about that, I just wonder about engine longevity, my next van will be a 2014 4 cyl as soon as they sell for under $5000...so 2028 if expediting exists by then
My egr stopped contributing to soot in the oil so I wonder where the black came from, blowby I guess
On a side note, do the later models still have an axle drain? Changed mine last night, it was fantastic, 5 min job
...that could get expensive...not worried about that, I just wonder about engine longevity, my next van will be a 2014 4 cyl as soon as they sell for under $5000...so 2028 if expediting exists by then My egr stopped contributing to soot in the oil so I wonder where the black came from, blowby I guess
On a side note, do the later models still have an axle drain? Changed mine last night, it was fantastic, 5 min job
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I think the oil in most diesels gets black quickly.
Found a post by rlent (wasn't he in here?) on Bob is the oil guy. He went 47000 miles on Mobil 1 with a bypass filter and oil analysis...guess I'm safe to follow the assyst...
Oil change is cheap. Why chance a engine? I change mine and drive around the block and it's almost black as night. Come on guys, it's not 5 gallons of oil here. Best $50.00+ you can spend to save the engine.
"If you use an oil that's on THE LIST, you can almost always trust the ASSYST." - Turtle Cochran
The reason you can't always always trust the ASSYST is because you can actually reset the ASSYST computer to stop using the Oil Quality Sensor and instead cause it to do a straight mileage countdown. If you reset the ASSYST, and then immediately reset it again before driving it, that's what happens. To get it back on the Oil Quality Sensor you have to reset it with the DRB III tool at the next oil change.
As for the oil being black, do a fresh oil and filter change, run the engine for 2 minutes, and then check the oil. It'll be black. There's a chemical reaction that takes place between the oil and the fuel (mainly but not exclusively the sulfur) which causes the oil to turn black. This is normal. It happens with and without an EGR valve. It happens with gasoline engines, as well, only not as quickly.
Unless you are Geordi LA Forge, merely looking at oil on a dipstick won't actually tell you anything about the oil quality.
When I first got mine, for the first, I dunno, half a dozen or so oil changes, I was pulling oil for analysis every 5000 miles and again at the oil change per the ASSYST, and the ASSYST turned out to be spot on with the oil analysis. That's when I felt comfortable in trusting the ASSYST.
I've had the ASSYST tell me to change the oil as quickly as 12,000 miles and as long as 23,000 miles. It all depends on the conditions under which the engine has been operated (temperature, humidity, altitude, RPMs, lots of factors play into it).
Roughly every 7000-9000 miles (usually when the ASSYST says I have 5000 miles left to go on the oil change) I will change out only the oil filter, that way the filter gets changed at about the mid point of the oil change interval.
I currently have a really annoying oil leak that no one can find, without steaming the engine and just looking for it. I have three very highly educated guesses from three very highly experienced Sprinter mechanics as to where it's leaking, all of them highly different guesses. Awesome. But I go through a quart every 4000-5000 miles. Not surprisingly, adding half a quart of fresh oil every 2500 miles really stretches out the ASSYST interval.
I do mine between 10 - 15,000 miles...0w40 as well....oil is black pretty much as soon as you turn the key in a diesel as Scott noted....colour means very little...it is the viscosity that is important and other attributes...
As Eddie said Oil is cheap compared to a new motor...I am a known cheapskate but I don't mess with the oils and other fluids.....ALWAYS stick to the list.....
NOTE: I stuck to the list with the Sprinter Rad fluid and didn't change out rad till I put in new motor at 696,000 miles....there is a difference in the aluminum block qualities/properties of say Sprinter vs Prestone Aluminum fluids...
If it means anything, for warranty issues the dealer uses the actual odometer not the ASSYST
As Eddie said Oil is cheap compared to a new motor...I am a known cheapskate but I don't mess with the oils and other fluids.....ALWAYS stick to the list.....
NOTE: I stuck to the list with the Sprinter Rad fluid and didn't change out rad till I put in new motor at 696,000 miles....there is a difference in the aluminum block qualities/properties of say Sprinter vs Prestone Aluminum fluids...
If it means anything, for warranty issues the dealer uses the actual odometer not the ASSYST
So...in case of a problem, for warranty you need to follow timed intervals and not use their own assyst system...now that makes sense
My diesel E350 went at least 30000 miles on Rotella conventional, with weekly makeup quarts, over 1,000,000 miles and was still running with zero engine problems...million is what I'm aiming for, at that point the chassis is a little suspect...
I like the idea of a midway filter change but would also like some data...difficult to add pressure gauges to this thing
My diesel E350 went at least 30000 miles on Rotella conventional, with weekly makeup quarts, over 1,000,000 miles and was still running with zero engine problems...million is what I'm aiming for, at that point the chassis is a little suspect...
I like the idea of a midway filter change but would also like some data...difficult to add pressure gauges to this thing
Oil Analysis kits are under $20. You can check it If you plan on changing filter half throw or any other ideas you have. But I'm with Steady on this. I drive a Str8 and it cost me $74 to change my own. It never passes 12K on my oil. It is the simplest and cheapest thing you can do for your engine.
When I haven't crossed into the US for awhile, the diy price is 130 for 9.5 quarts and filter
I've seen diesel at 4.15 a gal cdn last week too...
I've seen diesel at 4.15 a gal cdn last week too...
Fukc. That's a lot. You need to cross and pick up some Oil. Lol
Yep. Walmart, Mobil 1 0-W40, 4.4 l jugs, 49.95 plus H.S.T.
Or 12.83 by litre (plus HST)
Or 12.83 by litre (plus HST)
I don't think I'd be buying oil at a Walmart that adds an HST. I'd be buying oil at a Walmart in Buffalo.
I bought 2 jugs the other day. Price was $22.88 each plus 6% South Carolina sales tax. Total paid for the two jugs was $48.51.
I bought 2 jugs the other day. Price was $22.88 each plus 6% South Carolina sales tax. Total paid for the two jugs was $48.51.