Other than an Onan with a roof mount AC/Heat strip is there any APU that will provide AC/heat by plugging into shore power when available or by running the APU engine when not?
APU question
- Thread starter layoutshooter
- Start date
Biggest concern it the height of the roof top. Also, my ProHeat boat anchor only puts out 4000 watts, which MAY be enough. It is, however, going to need all new seals and the cabinet is rusting out. OTHER than that, I believe it would work.
greg334
Veteran Expediter
Well A bit of advice to you, get someone who knows how to convert your present system into one with a electric driven compressor and they can deal with the engine and other issues you have with the system.
4000 watts is enough to drive the thing and there isn't much to the controls of the APU that you need to worry about.
4000 watts is enough to drive the thing and there isn't much to the controls of the APU that you need to worry about.
okee dokee
EASYTRADER
Expert Expediter
Carrier has a shore power option, their AC and Heater are both electrically driven.
Sent from my SPH-D700 using EO Forums
Sent from my SPH-D700 using EO Forums
It cost about $1000. I was hoping to stay away from that unit. The AC is VERY wimpy. I have the Proheat, which Carrier bought. Even when the AC is working perfectly it cannot keep my cab and sleeper cool if it is hot outside. Their systems are only 10,000BTU
AlumiJunk.
Are you sure you want to cut a hole in the roof on one of those?????
No, just looking for a good answer. Would LOVE a good roof vent too. Concerned about that too. I just HAVE to do SOMETHING!
Thanks for the input. I need all the help I can get. It is going to be a VERY long and HOT summer.. Already having to idle to keep cool.
AMonger
Veteran Expediter
I can't imagine 10,000 BTU can't keep you cool. What do you drive and how much of it are you trying to keep cool?
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You know the problem with bad cops? They make the other 5% look bad.
I have a FTL M112 with an Alumijunk 96" sleeper. My APU, when it bothers to work, will not bring it down much below 85 or 90 if it over 100 or humid. My truck AC is about 30,000BTU and it does the job just fine.
Well, it is AlumiJunk It is not only the poor insulation, it has a lot to do with where the AC vents are located.
I would LOVE to design and build my own sleeper. All it would take is a zillion bucks or so. If I had enough to do that chances are I would not need to expedite, eh?
Not sure if this will help. http://cs.dogpile.com/ClickHandler....1&mid=9&hash=436AE99C7BBA39C4D08F725C4F88CBCC link to a list of shorepower-capable APUs
jimmy
jimmy
Thank you SO much!
greg334
Veteran Expediter
Why? where are the vents located? outside?
I can tell you this, I've re-insulated about 30 sleepers, a few alumibunks and the improvements that just this one thing makes is amazing. I would venture to guess that you also have a problem with heat soaking from the cab, but nevertheless, new insulation is the way to go.
It actually is easy to do, if you approach it in a logical way, starting with taking one panel off and seeing what's behind it.
The last one I did, which was made by some company in Texas was the hardest one yet, They used wood for the backing of the panels and one area leaked behind the panel rotting the panel and causing mold. I replaced the panels with a plastic and a heat barrier on top and then the vinyl on top of that, the guy was telling me that his a/c was hardly running and he was getting too cold.
The one thing I highly recommend is if yours was made with house wiring, get rid of it and replace it with marine wiring. My beenz had a little fire in the wall because the wiring was shorting against the frame.
It isn't hard, I will be doing this with the new truck next year. I am tired of the crap workmanship and the crap materials I have seen in most of the sleepers I worked on. I think taking a good approach of learning from the marine industry was the right thing to do coupled with a few visits to Kenworth and Volvo has helped a lot too.