dieselphreak2K
Expert Expediter
I finally got all the new lights hooked up. Figured I'd share a pic.
After a day's wiring...
- Thread starter dieselphreak2K
- Start date
dieselphreak2K
Expert Expediter
We were on i-40, but that's about it.
Going Long
Seasoned Expediter
Chicken lights...gotta love it!
rode2rouen
Expert Expediter
The top and bottom of the sides of the box look kinda nekkid!
Rex
Rex
Wow that is nice. Good Job. Hey Cheri maybe he can get them to blink all through December.
Doggie Daddy
Veteran Expediter
I sure hope that you "weatherized" all of those connections,this time of year is hard on all add-on electrical connections.The salt just eats them up. :'( :'(
So true on the wiring with todays chemicals. They either should be a electical tube assembly, or solder and shrink wrap a connection. If you get one winter out of a crimp connection I would be surprised.
Davekc
owner
22 years
PantherII
EO moderator
Davekc
owner
22 years
PantherII
EO moderator
Yes, absolutely solder the connections and forget about crimping as corrosives will work their way into the crimping and gradually degrade the electrical conductivity. Crimping is only a mechanical connection thus there is space; however small, for those corrosives.
On the other hand those same corrosives cannot penetrate a good solder joint even though they may cover the outside surface. Those not familar with soldering should practice some before doing the live work. It really isn't rocket science but there is a technique to it.
One of the common complaints is the lack of a third hand to hold everything while soldering. This is usually unnecessary. Make a mechanical connection of the wires by simply looping the bare ends together then with a hot solder iron preloaded with a bit of solder touch the bare wires. When the wires get hot enough the solder will wick over to them. I usually finish off the job by sliding shrink wrap tubing over the joint and then sealing it with applied heat. Another common mistake is to forget to slide the shrink wrap over the wires BEFORE soldering. I still do that occasionally!
On the other hand those same corrosives cannot penetrate a good solder joint even though they may cover the outside surface. Those not familar with soldering should practice some before doing the live work. It really isn't rocket science but there is a technique to it.
One of the common complaints is the lack of a third hand to hold everything while soldering. This is usually unnecessary. Make a mechanical connection of the wires by simply looping the bare ends together then with a hot solder iron preloaded with a bit of solder touch the bare wires. When the wires get hot enough the solder will wick over to them. I usually finish off the job by sliding shrink wrap tubing over the joint and then sealing it with applied heat. Another common mistake is to forget to slide the shrink wrap over the wires BEFORE soldering. I still do that occasionally!
The airport called and need another beacon at the end of the runway. They said your truck looks perfect as a guide. Seriously though, it looks great and it's cool you have the talent to do that stuff for yourself.
Leo Bricker, 73's K5LDB, OOIDA 677319
Owner, Panther trucks 5508, 5509, 5641
Highway Watch Participant, Truckerbuddy
EO Forum Moderator
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Support the entire Constitution, not just the parts you like.
Leo Bricker, 73's K5LDB, OOIDA 677319
Owner, Panther trucks 5508, 5509, 5641
Highway Watch Participant, Truckerbuddy
EO Forum Moderator
----------
Support the entire Constitution, not just the parts you like.
Redbird Girl
Seasoned Expediter
No excuses if they hit you except maybe, "hey I was blinded"
No, really looks good, I wish I could do that with my bike. I hate being the little guy that no one see's.
Redbird Girl-LIVESTRONG-LIVE LONG
No, really looks good, I wish I could do that with my bike. I hate being the little guy that no one see's.
Redbird Girl-LIVESTRONG-LIVE LONG
dieselphreak2K
Expert Expediter
Thanks for all the neat comments! I entirely agree with what's been said above. If you are going to wire, do it right! Seal everything 100%. I usually solder and then wrap all my connections. I haven't had problems yet, but the factory wiring is starting to give me headaches now.
Also. Don't use Double Bubble lights. They are the plastic base, two bulb lights found on most trucks. They are a cheap light, grounding through the mount which always corrodes, and you cannot properly seal them from getting dirt inside and looking darker. If you already ahve the holes for these lights, try Grand General's LED version that is a two-wire hookup(seperate ground). They seal better and are brighter than the standard ones.
Also, the idea that LED's draw less is true. I'm almost 100% led now, and my volts increased when going down the road.
Also. Don't use Double Bubble lights. They are the plastic base, two bulb lights found on most trucks. They are a cheap light, grounding through the mount which always corrodes, and you cannot properly seal them from getting dirt inside and looking darker. If you already ahve the holes for these lights, try Grand General's LED version that is a two-wire hookup(seperate ground). They seal better and are brighter than the standard ones.
Also, the idea that LED's draw less is true. I'm almost 100% led now, and my volts increased when going down the road.
dieselphreak2K
Expert Expediter
For christmas, I'm using one of the vehicle wreath kits my family's Christmas supply company sells. You'll see a 24" cedar wreath with a bow attached to my grille.
mrgoodtude
Not a Member
Showed this to a bull hauler, He wasn't happy......
Mike and Cyn
Mike and Cyn
raceman
Veteran Expediter
I think it looks great. I would like to see a picture at dusk to get a little better idea. I think you know my truck is lit up like Greater Cincinnati Airport runway. I am missing a few things that I want to light and it looks like you may have done it. Front end and front of box. I would like to see how you placed those. Would you share that info?
Raceman
OTR O/O
Raceman
OTR O/O
dieselphreak2K
Expert Expediter
The front end is a United Pacific bumper bar. 20 2" Beehive lights. Front of the box, I used Maxxima (best brand of lights I've ever purchased) slim-line LEDs. I didn't use the guards, as they would make the light only go straight forward. I measured out spacing for 6, and then drilled and mounted them to the curved upper panel on the box. It's a single layer, which made it easier. I siliconed behind the lights and ran power and ground off the existing wiring for the upper corner lights that came on it. I'll post the Maxxima part number as soon as I dig up that catalog.