2015 RAM Promaster Upfit from A to Z

westmicher · Feb 5, 2015

We just took delivery of our next Promaster, a 2015 3500 Extended version. We have been asked many times to post details so this should satisfy curiosity. I will answer questions about the construction but will not respond to negative postings as I have had my fill of those. This is our latest evolution of the Promaster and while you may have built it differently, this is what we are doing currently.

The cost was just under $39,000 out the door, with all of our incentives added. Keep in mind the 2014 model has more incentives available but we custom order ours so there are no leftovers that fit our needs.

Zeigler Chrysler RAM Dodge is where I buy Promasters from. My salesman, Bill Ball, is a Promaster specialist and has bent over backwards to provide great pricing & service! Their # is (269) 685-5800. If you would like help getting the Upfitter $1,000 discount, just PM me and I'll help you.

This is how it was delivered, minus all the factory identification badges that were plastered all over the exterior. We prefer a super clean look so they had to go!

FlyingVan · Feb 5, 2015

Is this the diesel that you ordered last year?

westmicher · Feb 5, 2015

FlyingVan said:
Is this the diesel that you ordered last year?

This one is a gasser...

westmicher · Feb 5, 2015

Here is the sticker... we load our Promasters with most of the available options. Notably we delete the passenger seat to make room for a nice - sized refrigerator and microwave, among other things. We want our drivers to be comfortable.

westmicher · Feb 5, 2015

So I go to Menards and pick up 10 sheets of 1/4" thick plain sliced red oak, 4 sheets of 1" thick polystyrene insulation, 4 sheets of 1-1/2" polystyrene insulation, 2 rolls of fiberglass insulation, 16 cans of spray insulation, sandpaper, and 2 gallons of satin polyurethane. Then I run to the local hardware to pick up stainless 1/4" - 20 machine screws, stainless locknuts, and TEK sheet metal screws. I pick up 3 - 10' lengths of e-track. At the shop I use templates to begin cutting the interior panels... then sanding and finishing them.

I order a custom 10" thick mattress, straps to secure the loads, e-track pockets to stop the loads, and some specialty electrical outlets/wiring.

xmudman · Feb 5, 2015

How have the transmissions been?

westmicher · Feb 5, 2015

xmudman said:
How have the transmissions been?

I would have bet there would have been trouble by now but they are running well... (knocks on wood)

Changing fluid + filter every 80,000 miles...

Headlight bulbs need replacing too often though... always keep a spare AND figure out how to replace them ahead of time because they are not easy to figure out!

The 2015 brakes make much less noise though... thank God!!!

FlyingVan · Feb 5, 2015

West, how many miles do you have on your oldest promaster?

GrassHopperr · Feb 5, 2015

FlyingVan said:
West, how many miles do you have on your oldest promaster?

I 2nd that question.

LDB · Feb 5, 2015

And in case the question is answered literally but the answer to the question asked isn't the answer being sought, what is the mileage of your highest mileage van?

westmicher · Feb 5, 2015

OK.... this is a Promaster build thread, not a Promaster durability thread. I let it get off course but need to bring it back to the build.

That said, none of my Promasters have more than 150,000 miles but it's significant how many don't have transmission problems at any miles... outside of one or two I've heard of that had problems very early, I don't think there is an inherent problem with transmission durability... at least yet...

Now, back to the build please.

DST001 · Feb 7, 2015

Hey westmicher will you new van have a small bunk in it ? are you able to fit 3 skids in it

westmicher · Feb 8, 2015

DST001 said:
Hey westmicher will you new van have a small bunk in it ? are you able to fit 3 skids in it

Yes, I will only build them to hold 3 48" long skids... 146" long cargo floor. I also put a real twin size mattress in them... 10" thick... but it is stowed along the side wall when there is 3 skids, which isn't all that often. Even when there are 3 skids in the van, it isn't for very long.

westmicher · Feb 8, 2015

I start the floor with 1/2" plywood. I coat the surface with satin polyurethane before machining. We found out that it gets too dirty if we wait to coat it after its installed.

westmicher · Feb 8, 2015

Meanwhile, we begin stuffing the door cavities with fiberglass and/or spray insulation, as needed, prior to installing the oak plywood trim panels.

Murraycroexp · Feb 8, 2015

Very nice!!

westmicher · Feb 8, 2015

After we've filled the cavity with fiberglass, we attach the red oak lower trim plywood panels to the lower rear walls.

westmicher · Feb 8, 2015

We use a white duct tape to cover holes that will not be covered with red oak trim. It looks surprisingly nice when complete!

westmicher · Feb 8, 2015

We are starting on the floor. We use 2 - 10' long E-track strips with 1/2" thick fir plywood flush mounted between. We use less expensive fir plywood because "it look like it's supposed to get scarred up from cargo". We don't feel so bad when the inevitable cargo loading/unloading damage occurs. It is replaceable if it really gets used up.

This is quite a process because the stainless attachment screws go through tapped holes in the floor and are locknutted underneath. Finally the locknut/screw areas are hit with undercoating to prevent rust/failure years down the road.

brohammerllc · Feb 9, 2015

Sounds and looks great! Now, when it's all said and done, what kind of weight can you haul? What is the empty weight as you have it set up verse the weight that is on the door frame? Right now I know that the Feds aren't stopping these vans or weighing them, but I feel soon that "revenue enhancement" time is just around the corner, and that they will be looking at us! So, how much can you haul in it?