07 hino hose that connects to turbo keeps coming loose any suggestions?
- Thread starter gboss
- Start date
I have had my hose pop off of my 05 268 a couple of times, usually after I have had it off for whatever reason and didn't get it back on either tight enough, or the clamp in the right place.
I finally ended up putting 2 screw type clamps on either end of the hose and have not had it happen again, and have had the hose off a couple of times replacing the belt tensioner and the alternator.
Might want to try clamps like this:
Heavy Duty T -Bolt Clamp Style Htbc - HTBC238
Will be able to get those tighter than normal radiator type screw clamps.
I finally ended up putting 2 screw type clamps on either end of the hose and have not had it happen again, and have had the hose off a couple of times replacing the belt tensioner and the alternator.
Might want to try clamps like this:
Heavy Duty T -Bolt Clamp Style Htbc - HTBC238
Will be able to get those tighter than normal radiator type screw clamps.
As I tell everyone, YOU DO THE FOLLOWING AT YOUR OWN RISK... If you're not sure, take it to a shop.
First a question...
Are you sure the boots and clamp are the right size? Unlike personal vehicles where one size fits all commercial trucks are often vehicle specific. You can have several different sized turbos on that series truck and engine,
Use a T bolt style clamp, be careful that you don't over tighten the clamp you can get allot of clamping force quickly. Ive seen guys crack the tank openings so, go only tight enough to keep it from moving and tweak it as you go. Also use a little, JUST ENOUGH TO MIST THE BOOT! silicone spray to slide them on if they are tight fitting.
Check both turbo tubes turbo to cooler Hot, and cooler to engine Cold as they tend to rust or corrode from the inside out A corroded Hot tube can cause blockage of the charge air cooler. Make sure your cooler is not plugged, look inside the cooler do you see a powdery substance, metal, rust, or oil? a little light residue of oil is normal if its gummed up you might need to have a radiator shop flush it clean. and check the turbo for a blown oil seal if its leaking the turbo is in trouble.
Speaking of the turbo, if it has a waste gate valve I would also check to see if the valve actuator is connected and working. The actuator is a diaphragm that has a small vacuum line attached to it and connects the the turbo. If you don't see a round-ish metal piece with a hose attached to it and the turbo and a rod going from the part into the turbo your turbo is likely internally waste gated and this I would take to a turbo shop.
Make sure the line is connected, tight, and not cracked or leaking. If it checks out you will disconnect the line and start the engine just long enough to see if there is vacuum. STAY OFF THE THROTLE YOUR OVER PRESSURE PROTECTION IS DISCONNECTED!! If you rev the engine you could do some serious damage. If you have vacuum this is good sign but this also says the actuator or the linkages are likely the causes. If you have a vacuum tool you can apply vacuum to the actuator while the engine is running and listen for a change in the idle. If it changes with vacuum the actuator may be weak. I would recommend replacing it anyway as this is a common wear item and it will help the turbo do its job better.
Sometimes you can remove them and free them up and they are good to go for a while, and sometimes they are so corroded, or if the rubber diaphragm is leaking they are finished, depending on the specific turbo you can replace the actuator by itself, or you might have to replace the whole turbo.
Hope this helps, PM me if I can be of assistance.
Be Safe.
Bob Wolf..
First a question...
Are you sure the boots and clamp are the right size? Unlike personal vehicles where one size fits all commercial trucks are often vehicle specific. You can have several different sized turbos on that series truck and engine,
Use a T bolt style clamp, be careful that you don't over tighten the clamp you can get allot of clamping force quickly. Ive seen guys crack the tank openings so, go only tight enough to keep it from moving and tweak it as you go. Also use a little, JUST ENOUGH TO MIST THE BOOT! silicone spray to slide them on if they are tight fitting.
Check both turbo tubes turbo to cooler Hot, and cooler to engine Cold as they tend to rust or corrode from the inside out A corroded Hot tube can cause blockage of the charge air cooler. Make sure your cooler is not plugged, look inside the cooler do you see a powdery substance, metal, rust, or oil? a little light residue of oil is normal if its gummed up you might need to have a radiator shop flush it clean. and check the turbo for a blown oil seal if its leaking the turbo is in trouble.
Speaking of the turbo, if it has a waste gate valve I would also check to see if the valve actuator is connected and working. The actuator is a diaphragm that has a small vacuum line attached to it and connects the the turbo. If you don't see a round-ish metal piece with a hose attached to it and the turbo and a rod going from the part into the turbo your turbo is likely internally waste gated and this I would take to a turbo shop.
Make sure the line is connected, tight, and not cracked or leaking. If it checks out you will disconnect the line and start the engine just long enough to see if there is vacuum. STAY OFF THE THROTLE YOUR OVER PRESSURE PROTECTION IS DISCONNECTED!! If you rev the engine you could do some serious damage. If you have vacuum this is good sign but this also says the actuator or the linkages are likely the causes. If you have a vacuum tool you can apply vacuum to the actuator while the engine is running and listen for a change in the idle. If it changes with vacuum the actuator may be weak. I would recommend replacing it anyway as this is a common wear item and it will help the turbo do its job better.
Sometimes you can remove them and free them up and they are good to go for a while, and sometimes they are so corroded, or if the rubber diaphragm is leaking they are finished, depending on the specific turbo you can replace the actuator by itself, or you might have to replace the whole turbo.
Hope this helps, PM me if I can be of assistance.
Be Safe.
Bob Wolf..
Going to move this to the Truck Talk forum !!!!
Ok, time out. 2007 Hinos don't have a DPF so they don't do regens. Perhaps you have a 2008MY truck built in late 2007.
In any case, sounds like you're having the frequent regen blues. The other CAC hose, the one going from the CAC to the intake manifold, if you remove that hose and look into the intake, you'll see a throttle plate. Are there three holes hand-drilled into the plate?
I'm not sure which emissions devices Australian trucks have, but over here they have a particulate filter and an SCR catalyst for NOx reduction.
When you select system check and it says No Fault, hold the up/down toggle in the UP position for ten seconds or so. It'll start displaying inactive faults. Keep scrolling through them with the up button. I have to assume that they are configured the same way, but YMMV.
Another thing is that the check engine light may be lit when another module like the urea dosing unit has a problem. It will tell the ecu to turn on the light and issue a generic code, but the specific code would be set within the dosing unit and would only be accessible by using Hino software to talk directly to the dosing unit.
cheers for that. Took into dealer today. Did updates etc and cleared light. Seems ok.
It sounds like the truck is fairly new. Sometimes we see a newer truck come in with the same recurring fault a few times, like it's having some teething issues. In particular, there have been a couple that have had EGR outlet temp sensors that have skewed values. After replacing that sensor, the problem goes away and stays away.
Several conditions will turn on the check engine light that don't point toward the failure of any particular sensor. The ecu is programmed to make several calculations with data from several sensor sources. If the calculation results are off target, it's my job to find where the deviation is occurring.