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Won't Start ~ Will Start ~ Won't Lock ~ Will Lock???

D

Dghnc4

Seasoned Expediter
Hi All
We were wondering if anyone has had any problems with there vehicle starting then not starting, remote locking and then not locking?

2005 Dodge Sprinter Van 2500
2.7L Mercedes Diesel Engine
540k miles


First, we were unable to get the doors to lock with the remote. It would take several attempts, where it would lock then immediately unlock and then it would finely lock and stay locked. This would happen occasionally.

Then, about a month ago, we had a no start, thinking it was the battery, got a jump, started right up, had the battery checked, fully charged.

Then, this past Friday, no start, jump didn't start it, battery fully charged, starter not getting volts. It sat in a shop until opening on Monday morning. First they checked the battery, dead, tried charging 2 hrs, would only get to 10.2 volts, replaced battery, starter and alternator fine. Started and locked multiple times. Also, when not starting, they said no communication from the ECM. But when starting, communication is there and no codes coming up.

Drove away from the shop, 2 miles away, stopped, turned it off, doors wouldn't lock, van wouldn't start.. Here we go again....

Returned to the certified Mercedes-Sprinter shop, they cannot get it to do anything to figure it out , except start, not start, lock, not lock... Only other thing the tech said is that the ECM was hot to the touch. He put it in front of fan, cooled it down, reinstalled it.

Has anyone had anything similar happen?

Any informative input would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks
Gail & Donald
 
Murraycroexp

Murraycroexp

Veteran Expediter
No Sprinter experience but.....
What if the ignition switch was bad.
Switch thinks the key is in the switch sometimes and rejects the lock command.
May also explain the "no power" to the starter.
Not sure how it would kill the battery but maybe the bad switch energized the ignition but not the dash cluster until the battery was drained.

Odd problem, though. Just my $.02.
 
Turtle

Turtle

Administrator
Staff member
Retired Expediter
It could be several things, but I'd start with the CTM (Central Timer Module) and the Ajar switches, most likely the driver Ajar switch. Make sure the wiring to them isn't damaged and are seated properly and the contacts are clean. After that looks at the electrical connections to the SKREEM.

Also, have the technician (or someone with a DAD) make sure the "Collision Impending" error hasn't been tripped in the Crash Status, and if it has it needs to be reset to "danger gone!" mode. That can be tripped if the Sprinter has recently experienced an abrupt (very abrupt) stop, like hitting something, a pole or barrier in a parking lit, for example.

It's very likely some electrical short in the wiring harness somewhere, but it could be a failed CTM or ECM, but I doubt it's a failed module, since it works and doesn't work randomly, which indicated dirty contact, damaged wiring, or a short in the harness somewhere. If the best the technician can do is read error codes on the DRBIII tool, find a different technician. The Sprinter guy at MB in Novi, MI is really good at electrical diagnostics. So is the one as Sansone Dodge in Avenel, NJ. There are others, but those are the ones I'm intimately familiar with.

My recommendation to start is to call or e-mail Andy Bittenbinder. He's in Pittsburgh.
[email protected]
412-366-6165
 
BobWolf

BobWolf

Veteran Expediter
Owner/Operator
Were the bateries tested on a heavy duty truck shop carbon plie tester? Especialy with diesels and multiple batery setups

Everything electronic goes through the batery and it may be the issue remember that most parts store and car shop testers are ment for gasoline engine car bateries and often dont test at the requirements that a diesel engine pulls at especialy with multiple bateries. Annother thing, with more electronic controlls on vehicals yes it will start, but it only takes a batery to be couple amps to raise havoc.

Also, do you have keyless entry or an alarm system? If so, I would place this as a prime suspect especialy if the system is aftermarket. That box store, awsome deal dirt cheap, alarm installer may have done a hatchet job on your electrical system verry common.

Bob Wolf.
 
BobWolf

BobWolf

Veteran Expediter
Owner/Operator
I forgot to mention the difference betwene Batery testers.
The ones that are used at most auto shops and parts stores will only pull 100 to 500 amps they will show a good batery and yors might be dying.
A heavy truck shop should have one that will pull 1,000 amps. You need a large pull on a diesel batery.

Bob Wolf
 
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