Straight Truck Sleeper

flattop40 · Jul 1, 2013

Looking at buying a straight truck and building my own sleeper in it. I have everything figured out accept the 2-3 inch gap between the cab and the box. My questions are, does the box need to move independently from the ? If so what would be the best way to seal this space from the weather? Some type of hard rubber?

This is an example of the truck I am looking into. It has a 26 foot box that I plan on using 6 feet for sleeper space leaving 20 feet for cargo. GVW is under 26k. I figure I will have a payload of 9-10k. Any feed back would be appreciated.

blackpup · Jul 1, 2013

Do a search for the term (texas sleeper). Here is one link that might be useful.

http://www.expeditersonline.com/for...as-style-sleeper.html?highlight=texas+sleeper

jimmy

paullud · Jul 1, 2013

Will that sleeper be DOT legal?

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tknight · Jul 1, 2013

My friend did that to the same truck his payload is more like 8k bulkhead wall is 2x4stud frame bolted through box walls and floor covered in 3/4 birch plywood both sides very solid he has storage space between roof of box and roof of sleeper, I would recommend a FTP box over an aluminum box much easier to cut holes for windows vents etc.... And hole through to cab.aluminum box has way to much crap to cut out.

21cExp · Jul 2, 2013

It's an interesting project, to take a sealed cab and make access to the box. Are you planning on just popping the window and using one of the gaskets mentioned?

I've seen box trucks with sleepers but they seem built on a cutaway cab, where you have the whole back of the cab open to the sleeper, and can walk in, not climb in. Those were done as tknight suggested, with a sleeper height that inside the box allows for storage above the sleeper. Looks like a cabover inside the box, actually.

The few I've seen had sleepers completely sealed from the cargo area, built with plywood, with 2x2 or larger angle fixing the wall of the sleeper to the wall of the box. I know one guy who removed the sleeper from one truck and used it in his next truck, too. That might be worth considering when designing your sleeper.

I'd find some box trucks at the truck stops and ask the drivers how their sleepers are set up. Most guys are more than happy to show what they've done.

It'll be cool to see what you end up doing though, to seal the cab to the box. I've always wondered if cutaway cabs with open backs are built on a different chassis than a sealed cab is, for just the question of independent movement you mention in your post.

Murraycroexp · Jul 2, 2013

I had a driver do this about 6-8 years ago. Be sure to factor in the escape hatch in the side of the box. I think he said there's some reg out there requiring it. But he may have made that detail up.
I can't remember what he used to seal between them but the box and can flex on the frame at differing amounts and angles. So the union between can't be too hard.

Moot · Jul 2, 2013

flattop40 said:
My questions are, does the box need to move independently from the ? If so what would be the best way to seal this space from the weather? Some type of hard rubber?

I would think that you would want the box to be able to move independently of the cab. A 26' box will be subject to yawing when loading or going down the road.

If you plan on using the window opening for a crawl-through, there are boots made for pickup trucks that fit between the cab and a topper. If you do some cutting of the back wall of the cab for a walk-through, buy an OEM boot and cut the wall to the boot size. Different truck makers have different size sleeper openings, so do some research.

Another option is buy the boot material by the foot allowing you to custom cut the opening to your own specs. There are different types and thickness of this material so you should be able to find some that fits your particular needs.

Keep us updated on your project.

runrunner · Jul 2, 2013

Here you will find the regulations for legal sleepers.
Sleeper berths. - Federal Motor Carrier Safety Administration

If you note after Jan 1953 sleepers must be in the cab or adjacent to the cab,so if I get this right it is now illegal to build a sleeper in the cargo box.

runrunner · Jul 2, 2013

Oh yea,another thought,I think it would through off balance when you need to get some cargo weight to the front axle making you over weight on heavy loads.

flattop40 · Jul 2, 2013

runrunner said:
Here you will find the regulations for legal sleepers.
Sleeper berths. - Federal Motor Carrier Safety Administration

If you note after Jan 1953 sleepers must be in the cab or adjacent to the cab,so if I get this right it is now illegal to build a sleeper in the cargo box.

Thanks for all of the constructive feedback everyone. I may be wrong but building a sleeper in the front of the box then meets the standard of it being "adjacent" to the cab. Correct?

WanderngFool · Jul 3, 2013

flattop40 said:
Thanks for all of the constructive feedback everyone. I may be wrong but building a sleeper in the front of the box then meets the standard of it being "adjacent" to the cab. Correct?

That's the way I understand it.

A crazy thought that hit me today as I was pondering how to max out the space in the straight truck with 63" sleeper I bought last month... Why don't sleepers have slide out sections like rvs?

Btw, my older (1995) straight truck (Freightliner FL70) has the sleeper box bolted solidly to the cab - a bead of silicone has to keep the water out. It was leaking when I bought it but it probably hadn't been resealed since '95. If I have to reseal it every couple of years - no big deal.

BobWolf · Jul 3, 2013

Urethane sealant is superior to silicone stiks better, better durability, and more fexable. Make sure you get down to the substrate metal, fiberglass, or frp. It can be runny if its hot like 80 deg.F. in the sun out mask off the edges you dont want it on and seal it up. If it gets below 55 deg.F. You will need good forarm muscles as it guns slow and thick.

Bob Wolf

runrunner · Jul 3, 2013

flattop40 said:
Thanks for all of the constructive feedback everyone. I may be wrong but building a sleeper in the front of the box then meets the standard of it being "adjacent" to the cab. Correct?

Yep I think you are right, I spoke to soon.

purgoose10 · Jul 4, 2013

The longer the frame the more flex you will have. You should positively have a 3 inch gap between box and sleeper.

spongebox1 · Jul 4, 2013

Tst or express one up in Michigan next to the detroiter had several box trucks for sale with the sleeper built into the cargo box area, I don't recall the build setup but they were refurbished pensky Internationals!

spongebox1 · Jul 4, 2013

The trucks I just mentioned had a pass through with a flex seal between cab and sleeper

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jjoerger · Jul 4, 2013

I wouldn't plan on hauling any HAZMAT in a box that had a sleeper inside of it. Especially one attached to the cab by a boot. Poisonous gases have a way of killing people in a set up like that.

spongebox1 · Jul 6, 2013

jjoerger said:
I wouldn't plan on hauling any HAZMAT in a box that had a sleeper inside of it. Especially one attached to the cab by a boot. Poisonous gases have a way of killing people in a set up like that.

I don't think by law you can run hazardous with a sleeper like that?

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flattop40 · Jul 8, 2013

I think this should do the trick in reference to the OP.

Accordion Seals | Uni-Grip Inc.

As for the hazmat issues, I am not sure but even if I can't haul it there is plenty enough freight that is not hazmat. Besides it leaves more loads for those of you who do carry it.