ebsprintin
Veteran Expediter
I just got around to making my own cable to by-pass the alternator/battery cable that is problematic on some sprinter models. This job is related to a previous discussion in a subthread linked here:
http://www.expeditersonline.com/for...2665-august-2010-locations-25.html#post382186
The primary symtoms are low voltage readings, weak starts, and premature battery and alternator failure on post 06 sprinters. The problem comes from a corroded fusible link that is in the cable between the alternator and starter.
The original harness connects the alternator to the starter and then the starter to the battery. My cable is a direct connection from the alternator to the battery. I left the original cable harness in place and used it as a route to tie my cable. The original harness is still the starter to battery connection. I disconnected the old cable from the alternator and insulated the connector, so it wouldn't short to anything, connected my cable to the alternator and routed it back to the battery. The alternator end is the only connector in the elements. The new cable is #2 awg welding cable going through a bolted inline atm fuse in the battery box. The connections are crimped with a hammer crimper, sealed with liquid electrical tape and then covered with heat shrink. The heat shrink at the alternator connection is heavy duty, waterproof heat shrink. Cost of parts is less than $30, and I now have a solid 14 volts.
I consider the repair/mod semi permanent. If it holds up, I'll remove the old cable, make a new cable for the starter to battery connection and replace the atm fuse with a fusible link.
eb
http://www.expeditersonline.com/for...2665-august-2010-locations-25.html#post382186
The primary symtoms are low voltage readings, weak starts, and premature battery and alternator failure on post 06 sprinters. The problem comes from a corroded fusible link that is in the cable between the alternator and starter.
The original harness connects the alternator to the starter and then the starter to the battery. My cable is a direct connection from the alternator to the battery. I left the original cable harness in place and used it as a route to tie my cable. The original harness is still the starter to battery connection. I disconnected the old cable from the alternator and insulated the connector, so it wouldn't short to anything, connected my cable to the alternator and routed it back to the battery. The alternator end is the only connector in the elements. The new cable is #2 awg welding cable going through a bolted inline atm fuse in the battery box. The connections are crimped with a hammer crimper, sealed with liquid electrical tape and then covered with heat shrink. The heat shrink at the alternator connection is heavy duty, waterproof heat shrink. Cost of parts is less than $30, and I now have a solid 14 volts.
I consider the repair/mod semi permanent. If it holds up, I'll remove the old cable, make a new cable for the starter to battery connection and replace the atm fuse with a fusible link.
eb