sleeper in a chevy CV 2500 extended
- Thread starter miker
- Start date
While I won't go into the specific methods of building a sleeper in a van (Turtle, Moot, Ontariovanman, Relent, & Dhalltoyo can do that much better), I will say that having a comfortable place to sleep is a necessity. I highly doubt that having a sleeper in the van I owned cost any loads, but even if it did, it was well worth it - you cannot perform at your best if you don't get proper sleep. I couldn't sleep well until I had a sleeper built with a bulkhead wall, to isolate me from the freight (including the sometimes appalling smells).
I have a Ford E 350 Ext Cargo van with a Bulk head. If I'm loaded with Freight I put a 5 gallon pail between the seats lay a thin sheet of plywood, a couple of mattress pads and a quilt. If I'm empty mattress pads and a sleeping bag on the floor. A magnetized reading light and I'm all set.
late4dinner
Seasoned Expediter
Aluma bunk is the only one that I know that builds and installs sleepers in cargo vans, however they are pricy.
As far as loosing a load now and then because you have a nice place to rest and sleep, I would say who cares. Your rest and comfort is just about the most important thing I can think of.
I purchased my mattress at the Petro in Joplin Mo. and it is the best one I have had so far. In the past I have purchased mattresses at FIDA Freightliner,(they get them from Mack Mattress) but many just purchase some foam rubber slabs and make their own.
If you can find the link to Revs Ride you can see how he did his. Everyone has their own idea how things should be done and what works for one might not work for the other.
As far as loosing a load now and then because you have a nice place to rest and sleep, I would say who cares. Your rest and comfort is just about the most important thing I can think of.
I purchased my mattress at the Petro in Joplin Mo. and it is the best one I have had so far. In the past I have purchased mattresses at FIDA Freightliner,(they get them from Mack Mattress) but many just purchase some foam rubber slabs and make their own.
If you can find the link to Revs Ride you can see how he did his. Everyone has their own idea how things should be done and what works for one might not work for the other.
Last edited:
late4dinner
Seasoned Expediter
Miker, FYI Cleveland Ohio is just north of Strongsville. Now, would you please tell me why you would leave Akron, Oh and go through Chillicothe to get to Mississippi? Just wondering.
Miker: Strongsville is a SW suburb of Cleveland, exit 161 on the turnpike.
I was a van O/O for 2 yrs, then switched to driving a D unit for an owner. (I felt like Goldilocks: t/t was too big, van was too small, but a D unit is juuuuust right, lol.)
My sleeper was built by an individual who lives in Romeo, Mi. I don't know whether he still does it, but if you're interested, send me a pm - I think I still have his number. Alternately, if you have basic carpentry skills, the measuring & cutting of plywood to build a bulkhead wall & hinged bunk platform (for storage underneath) doesn't seem too difficult. A Memory Foam mattress is a great investment in comfort, and can easily be trimmed to fit whatever size needed.
I was a van O/O for 2 yrs, then switched to driving a D unit for an owner. (I felt like Goldilocks: t/t was too big, van was too small, but a D unit is juuuuust right, lol.)
My sleeper was built by an individual who lives in Romeo, Mi. I don't know whether he still does it, but if you're interested, send me a pm - I think I still have his number. Alternately, if you have basic carpentry skills, the measuring & cutting of plywood to build a bulkhead wall & hinged bunk platform (for storage underneath) doesn't seem too difficult. A Memory Foam mattress is a great investment in comfort, and can easily be trimmed to fit whatever size needed.
late4dinner
Seasoned Expediter
Okay, now I C
Jack_Berry
Moderator Emeritus
got space for a 22" wide mattress behind my seats leaving 103" of floor space. sleep right next to the freight.
the braces used to hold the cargo in place can be used to support the bed when empty. i still need to finish the ceiling but injured a knee and have surgery sched for tuesday. van is driven by suds43 currently.
walls have reflectix against them and polisynocratic(available at hd, lowes, etc) 1 inch then 1/4 plywood. floor is alloc from a bud at church.
memory foam mattress is nice. sorry mom, i didn't have time to make the bed. note the red shoe box from ikea, thanks rev. got two more on the left side holding loading supplies and other loose items.
the braces used to hold the cargo in place can be used to support the bed when empty. i still need to finish the ceiling but injured a knee and have surgery sched for tuesday. van is driven by suds43 currently.
walls have reflectix against them and polisynocratic(available at hd, lowes, etc) 1 inch then 1/4 plywood. floor is alloc from a bud at church.
memory foam mattress is nice. sorry mom, i didn't have time to make the bed. note the red shoe box from ikea, thanks rev. got two more on the left side holding loading supplies and other loose items.
Attachments
Last edited:
theoldprof
Veteran Expediter
Yep, you gotta have a good bunk. My mattress was made of 6 inch foam. Check "Plastic Pipe Bunk" in the Truck Forum, and "Floor in Cargo Van" in Newbies Forum.
Miker: you'll find the dimensions of the mattresses written on the label - next time you're in the store where they're sold, you can see what the size is.
As for whether you can be comfortable with that much space, lay a flat sheet on the floor, folded as wide as you want to test, (ie 24") and decide whether it's roomy enough. Keeping in mind that leaving yourself too little space pretty much defeats the purpose of having a sleeper, eh? As long as you can fit 2 standard pallets (48x48) and close the back doors, the rest of the space is yours.
As for whether you can be comfortable with that much space, lay a flat sheet on the floor, folded as wide as you want to test, (ie 24") and decide whether it's roomy enough. Keeping in mind that leaving yourself too little space pretty much defeats the purpose of having a sleeper, eh? As long as you can fit 2 standard pallets (48x48) and close the back doors, the rest of the space is yours.
miker
Seasoned Expediter
after some contemplating , I think that i will use my crafty skills to build my own bunk, I used to have all tools needed for anything but pretty much liquidated all of them when i got out of construction, i think i will take my time and do it right while gathering some tools and material. in the meantime i think that im going to get an air matress to do the job while my masterpiece is in progress. i might be able to put a 30 -36 '' in there with the extended cab that i have now it is 11' of cargo space
thanks
thanks
Jack_Berry
Moderator Emeritus
mattress from the mattress factory. i am 6'2 and 250 and mattress is wide enough. i can sleep widthwise with my feet in the opening of the side dorr of the ford.
the 1/2" making up the cargo box can be cut at 18" at the lumber yard(dept stores don't cut). drill with a phillips bit does double duty. btw the cargo walls are L bracketed to the floor. metat floor has a 1" hdf on top then the alloc.
the 1/2" making up the cargo box can be cut at 18" at the lumber yard(dept stores don't cut). drill with a phillips bit does double duty. btw the cargo walls are L bracketed to the floor. metat floor has a 1" hdf on top then the alloc.
That is a very nice sleeper you have there jack. I love the hardwood floors. The only critique that I have about your sleeper is that you should have made the bunk area foldable. I know it is not often, but I have on several occasions, picket up automotive racks that have gone from the back of my doors to the back of my seats. I guess they knew that I did not have a sleeper in my van. But as far as the way you have it set up, it looks very professional, and that leaves a good impression with customers.
Jack_Berry
Moderator Emeritus
thanks for the kind comments. i have had forklifters asking why it was insulated then get the wide eyes when i say i am not home much(present time exempted). i guess i could extend the opening and shore up the sides with 4x's on the floor. only had one load that needed to go that far(for weight dist). i am leery of losing the little sleep area when i have long run loads and i need to spend some blankie time for a couple hours.
chefdennis
Veteran Expediter
I have a 2 x 10 that runs along the drivers side from 4inches back behind the drivers seat to the back corner of the van right against the wheel well. I build a box that sits in the step well for the side doors that is as tall as the top of the 2x10. I then ripped a 34 in 4x8 sheet of plywood and put a piano hinge on it so that it folds in half. I then laid the plywood over the 2 x 10 and the box, no issues with support. I use a inflatabke full size twin air matteress. When i have to get 2 skids in, all i do is lift the edge of the plywood and fold it uo. I have a eyelet screwed into on the underside of the board and i use a short bunge strap and hook it to the eyelet and to the 1st rib back fron the factory headliner on the interior roof. I have had no problems with 2 skids in this fashion.
Now if i have to sleep while the board is folded, i use a smaller air materess and deal with that. no big deal. If for some reason i need more room i can either folld the board completely in half and lay if flat and i can also tip it up and stand it on edge behind the drivers seat in that 4 inch area that i didn't cover with the 2x10. then i have the complete load floor. i haven't had to do that yet at all. And i really don't expect to.
The area behind that 2 x10 is great for storing a case of water until i need it in the frig, food before it gets in the micro wave, straps, chain, gloves fuel cannisters for the big buddy and the butane burner, gym bag full of clean clotes, dirty clothes bag and toiletries other stuff.
Oh I also use a heavy shower curtain rod and hung a heavy quilt over it and used nylon ties to hold it folded in place and use that as a seperater from the cargo area, Using the shower curtain rod lets me take it completely down or move it anywhere i need it using the holes in the side wall and roof supports. I insulated the 4 ft area i sleep in with Dow blue foam board and the same air bubble insulation that Jack used, covering the side wall, ceiling and side doors. My only issue is i used duct tape to hold the bubble insulation in place, bad idea! I need to fix that and then cover it all with wood.
Now if i have to sleep while the board is folded, i use a smaller air materess and deal with that. no big deal. If for some reason i need more room i can either folld the board completely in half and lay if flat and i can also tip it up and stand it on edge behind the drivers seat in that 4 inch area that i didn't cover with the 2x10. then i have the complete load floor. i haven't had to do that yet at all. And i really don't expect to.
The area behind that 2 x10 is great for storing a case of water until i need it in the frig, food before it gets in the micro wave, straps, chain, gloves fuel cannisters for the big buddy and the butane burner, gym bag full of clean clotes, dirty clothes bag and toiletries other stuff.
Oh I also use a heavy shower curtain rod and hung a heavy quilt over it and used nylon ties to hold it folded in place and use that as a seperater from the cargo area, Using the shower curtain rod lets me take it completely down or move it anywhere i need it using the holes in the side wall and roof supports. I insulated the 4 ft area i sleep in with Dow blue foam board and the same air bubble insulation that Jack used, covering the side wall, ceiling and side doors. My only issue is i used duct tape to hold the bubble insulation in place, bad idea! I need to fix that and then cover it all with wood.
Last edited: