Big Truck PLEASE HELP!! I HAVE 2008 HINO W/DPF PROBLEMS.
- Thread starter MOTEK
- Start date
It's 1:48 AM.
PM me in the morning.
PM me in the morning.
tknight
Veteran Expediter
I have blown up Moteks phone with technical text messages.
I don't talk on the phone during working hours.
I don't talk on the phone during working hours.
That's really funny when you think about it.
Choked off exhaust filter? I really don't know, have to wait for Greasy
Does the fan clutch come on? You'll hear it cycle on and off as you're driving.
Does the coolant level stay put, or are you having to add coolant?
The radiator fins can get clogged, and it won't be noticeable at all until you get some stuff out of the way. You can try removing the intercooler and cleaning the radiator fins. I would not use a pressure washer.
This radiator looked clean around the edges. Removing the intercooler revealed how dirty it actually was.
whataboutbob
New Recruit
So I was searching for info on a hino 268 dpf system and ran across this thread though it seemed to stray off of the dpf subject.
I have a 2008 268 which is giving us fits. we bought the truck 2 years ago with 196k miles, at 197k it started asking for regens at less than 100 mile increments. The truck went to a nearby Hino dealer and we were told injectors were out of spec and the dpf needed to be replaced. Problem seemed to go away for about 1k miles then same issue, were told injectors were bad again and would be replaced under warranty. 1k later same problem, replaced pressure sensors. 500 miles and same issue,and on and on, told bad clutch switch causing the problem. Now same problem again and told it may be an internal engine problem. compression and leak down were done and all is good, also was told that the turbo impeller felt tight.
The truck now has 206k and can't get more than 50 miles without requiring a manual regen. Any help would be greatly appreciated
I have a 2008 268 which is giving us fits. we bought the truck 2 years ago with 196k miles, at 197k it started asking for regens at less than 100 mile increments. The truck went to a nearby Hino dealer and we were told injectors were out of spec and the dpf needed to be replaced. Problem seemed to go away for about 1k miles then same issue, were told injectors were bad again and would be replaced under warranty. 1k later same problem, replaced pressure sensors. 500 miles and same issue,and on and on, told bad clutch switch causing the problem. Now same problem again and told it may be an internal engine problem. compression and leak down were done and all is good, also was told that the turbo impeller felt tight.
The truck now has 206k and can't get more than 50 miles without requiring a manual regen. Any help would be greatly appreciated
Does the truck suffer from low power when the DPR graph hits three bars?
Does the DPR graph ever jump from a couple of bars straight to five bars or higher?
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Does the DPR graph ever jump from a couple of bars straight to five bars or higher?
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You're most likely experiencing low boost during a regen, or erroneous temp sensor readings.
Low boost is often caused by the turbo. It doesn't really matter if the shaft is loose or tight, it just cannot ever bind. If it's spun by hand with a bit of side pressure on it and it binds, then it has to be replaced. Period.
The charge air cooler (intercooler, CAC) can sometimes get gummed up with enough goop to block airflow. If it looks like the inlet is full of tar, remove it and have it cleaned and pressure tested.
Sometimes the intake throttle valve sticks shut. It should be modified by drilling three holes in it. If it does not have holes drilled, get back to me.
If the EGR valve doesn't shut all the way, there can be regen problems. This issue is rare.
On the temp sensors:. The sensors should be replaced every 200k miles. Also, the wiring harness tends to break an inch or three behind the temp sensor connector because of vibration. This needs to be tested electrically. There is a TSB out on this that your dealer has access to. If they can't find it, get back to me.
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Low boost is often caused by the turbo. It doesn't really matter if the shaft is loose or tight, it just cannot ever bind. If it's spun by hand with a bit of side pressure on it and it binds, then it has to be replaced. Period.
The charge air cooler (intercooler, CAC) can sometimes get gummed up with enough goop to block airflow. If it looks like the inlet is full of tar, remove it and have it cleaned and pressure tested.
Sometimes the intake throttle valve sticks shut. It should be modified by drilling three holes in it. If it does not have holes drilled, get back to me.
If the EGR valve doesn't shut all the way, there can be regen problems. This issue is rare.
On the temp sensors:. The sensors should be replaced every 200k miles. Also, the wiring harness tends to break an inch or three behind the temp sensor connector because of vibration. This needs to be tested electrically. There is a TSB out on this that your dealer has access to. If they can't find it, get back to me.
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whataboutbob
New Recruit
thanks for the info, I'll ck these things and see where we are. I had read about the three holes in the throttle valve and mentioned it to the dealer (FMI) and they said they had never heard of that. I actually drove the truck Friday just short of 200 miles and everything seemed to work well, went to three bars then dropped back to zero twice. oil level stayed right at the line, fuel economy was 9.8. When we have had regen issues it would suddenly jump from three bars to five as you described. Again thanks for the info
Bar jumping is almost exclusively the DPR temp sensors / harness connectors. Not only is there a TSB on the throttle plate, there's also one on load testing the DPR sensor harness.
If your local dealer cannot satisfy you, go to Hino.com and start sending some polite yet stern emails.
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