I have a baby cat 3116,i think.My driver says engine runs real hot at speeds of 55mph and above and when the weather is 90 or hotter.I said to put the heat on,he does and it helps alittle.If he idles its fine,there are no leaks inside or out.I wanna take the thermosat out and see what happens,what do think?
Overheating
- Thread starter pellgrn
- Start date
rode2rouen
Expert Expediter
>
>I have a baby cat 3116,i think.My driver says engine runs
>real hot.........
>
How hot is "real hot" on the Engine Temp. guage?
Does the fan clutch engage when it gets "real hot"?
Rex
>I have a baby cat 3116,i think.My driver says engine runs
>real hot.........
>
How hot is "real hot" on the Engine Temp. guage?
Does the fan clutch engage when it gets "real hot"?
Rex
rode2rouen
Expert Expediter
There are 2 types of fans that are commonly used.
Air operated: these are found on most class 8 engines (as well as some newer class 7s) and the fan function is controlled by the ECM as it monitors coolant temp. On older mechanical engines there was a fan thermostat (commonly called a "Skinner Valve") that controlled the air. You can usually see the 1/4" air line going to the front or rear of the fan hub.
Viscous operated: these use the flow of air through the radiator to activate the fan. When the temp of the air coming through the radiator reaches a certain point the fan engages (this is usually tied to the engine thermostat opening temp).
Trouble shooting is straight forward....with either type you should HEAR the fan engage when the engine thermostat opens. For example: my International with an M11 Cummins will usually run at 180 degrees, when the temp reaches about 190 under a hard pull, the fan will come on and stay on until the engine temp drops below 190.
You really need to have the driver give "real hot" a temp number...is "real hot" over 220 degrees?????
Note: there are also electric controlled fan hubs, but they are usually found on school busses.
Rex
Air operated: these are found on most class 8 engines (as well as some newer class 7s) and the fan function is controlled by the ECM as it monitors coolant temp. On older mechanical engines there was a fan thermostat (commonly called a "Skinner Valve") that controlled the air. You can usually see the 1/4" air line going to the front or rear of the fan hub.
Viscous operated: these use the flow of air through the radiator to activate the fan. When the temp of the air coming through the radiator reaches a certain point the fan engages (this is usually tied to the engine thermostat opening temp).
Trouble shooting is straight forward....with either type you should HEAR the fan engage when the engine thermostat opens. For example: my International with an M11 Cummins will usually run at 180 degrees, when the temp reaches about 190 under a hard pull, the fan will come on and stay on until the engine temp drops below 190.
You really need to have the driver give "real hot" a temp number...is "real hot" over 220 degrees?????
Note: there are also electric controlled fan hubs, but they are usually found on school busses.
Rex
He said 210 is the highest it gets,i think i'll have him take a power hose and blow the bugs out the front of the radiator cause it only gets over 200 when he turns the air on,the condensor gets hot and there's not enough flow to compensate.If he idles or drivers with the air off he's fine,if the fan clutch was bad it should heat up even more at idle i would think.Thanks again for everones input.
Broompilot
Veteran Expediter
I agree with Pell thats also the cheapest solution to begin with. If that still does not do it use any Oven Cleaner let it sit (Cool) for about 20 minutes than rinse completely.
If still having heating concerns, than consult a professional. Cooling is nothing to play around with.
If still having heating concerns, than consult a professional. Cooling is nothing to play around with.