New Guy with Class 8 Straight truck Please HELP!!!

JCarr283

Expert Expediter
Ok here's the deal, I Am purchasing a Class 8 Truck probably a Century or Columbia condo. I have been doing research in expediting for several months, and am leaning to sign with PantherII. I drove Tractor-trailer for Atlas OTR and a local inter-city transfer Co. My friend and I will be driving as a team. I am having the truck stretched and adding a 24ft cargo box. (tired of pulling 53ft trailers in tiny truckstops and docks) This seems the most affordable option as I can build this unit for under $25K with a 2001-2002 tractor with 300k-400k miles. All of which I plan to pay for in cash and have no debt to pay, just fuel, maintenance, insurance, ect.
My questions are these:
1. Is this the best (most profitable) way to start out?
2. Are team drivers going to get more loads with longer hauls?
3. Am I better off with tandems or a single axle then pay to add tag axle?
4. What type of pay should I expect with this unit, straight truck pay or tractor pay?
5. What is the typical pay rate for a co-driver since mine is not putting up any investment capital?
6. Isn't the stretched tractor method better so that I may haul heavier loads and lower purchase price than a Class 5 with a sleeper added, not to mention the on-road advantages of a Semi (I.e. more gears, Jake brake, more comfortable ride, power divider ect)?

Any answers to these questions and/or any other input would be GREATLY appreciated!!!!!
 

raceman

Veteran Expediter
RE: New Guy with Class 8 Straight truck Please HEL

If you run team you will do very well with any of the Big Boys in this business. This is the best approach as Teams do get the long runs. I love that you are doing a stretch and to the best of my knowledge all that you mention or question sounds right on.

As for a co driver with no investment you need to work through the numbers and see what you can afford or want to afford. I have always done 20%. With fuel and no investment I may rethink that. You may want to take a best guess at your mileage per week and just pay them a flat figure. I would guess your mileage to be somewhere between 4000 and 5500 a week and you may somewhere between $1.20 and $1.60 per mile.

In my opinion you try and give them a flat rate and leave room for a raise or two to keep them motivated. Most people will tell you to apy a percentage. As I said I have always done that in past but I think today my offer would be some amount per week as long as truck runs X number of miles a week. Ifd the truck runs less than X per week then you have a clause that points out some reduction.

That is why percentage works best. Because the mileage will vary.


Raceman
OTR O/O
 

LDB

Veteran Expediter
Retired Expediter
RE: New Guy with Class 8 Straight truck Please HEL

> My questions are these:
>1. Is this the best (most profitable) way to start out?

In all likelihood yes since the D unit will get the highest pay other than T/T.

>2. Are team drivers going to get more loads with longer
>hauls?

Another pretty much yes answer although there are teams getting bounced around on short runs too.

>3. Am I better off with tandems or a single axle then pay to
>add tag axle?

If you go tandem you pay higher tolls every time. If you go tag you only pay higher tolls when those wheels are down. If you go tandem you pay for 4 more tires for every mile you run. If you go tag you pay for 2 more times only when using them.

>4. What type of pay should I expect with this unit, straight
>truck pay or tractor pay?

D unit straight truck pay mostly although if it will scale over 13k you might get T/T pay once in a while if they load you heavy. That depends on carrier policy.

>5. What is the typical pay rate for a co-driver since mine
>is not putting up any investment capital?

I've often heard 25% in the situation you describe but it's whatever the two of you agree on.

>6. Isn't the stretched tractor method better so that I may
>haul heavier loads and lower purchase price than a Class 5
>with a sleeper added, not to mention the on-road advantages
>of a Semi (I.e. more gears, Jake brake, more comfortable
>ride, power divider ect)?

Class 8 is going to become the standard within a few years I believe for the reasons you mention. I can't answer for your specific situation but can say my next truck is going to be class 8 for many of the same reasons.

Good luck to you.

Leo
truck 4958

Support the entire Constitution, not just the parts you like.
 

Lawrence

Founder
Staff member
RE: New Guy with Class 8 Straight truck Please HEL

JCarr283

I'm not sure if you have chosen the vendors to do all your work yet -but let me caution you on this - choose a vendor who knows expediting. You may get stuck with a truck that is not compliant with the major expedited carriers.

I will always remember talking to the guy from texas with a 26' box and a 84" sleeper.

Lawrence,
Expediters Online.com


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greg334

Veteran Expediter
RE: New Guy with Class 8 Straight truck Please HEL

I am going to throw my 2¢ in, sorry I am long winded

I am posting this because I read on another forum that anyone can do frame stretch and still have a margin of safety, which is wrong and dangerous to say.

I was offered a class 8 truck, FL Argosy, two weeks ago and have been thinking of taking it and stretching it to use.

The truck has around 300K on it and I know the history of it (one owner, great records, no accidents, never abused, etc…). The price is less than most of the used cargo vans I been running across but the expense to prep the truck would cost more than buying a new sprinter. The only reason I am looking at changing my plans of driving a cargo van to a straight truck is because of the incentive of making more money in the long run but a factor of safety in the decision process is most important than anything else.

The truck’s owner is interested in what needed to be done to the truck to prep it, which included stretching the frame. He helped find different people to talk to about that work.

We met with a few “experts” who claim to be able to stretch anything.

One yahoo we met built hotrods and race cars and did frame stretching in his workshop on the side to pay for his car habit. Really nice workshop and great looking cars, but …we were not impressed with the information he was telling us (or his claims that he has stretched a lot of trucks) so needless to say he won’t be doing my work.

This does not mean that people who build race cars or hot rods don’t know anything or do bad work, it is this one person who is a “know it all” that got under our skin.

In the end we both agreed that using just anyone to stretch a frame is not a good idea.

To satisfy my desire to do things right the first time and to answer my technical questions, I contacted some of my former co-workers who are at D-C who put me in touch with the actual designers/engineers of these trucks at FL. I wanted to get the skinny on this subject from the source, no BS.

I found out a lot of information about frame stretching and what not to do. I won’t go into the technical details, but here is a small list of points to remember;

Point one
Safety is the most important thing. Having a frame stretched changes the dynamics of the frame and how it handles loads in the long term. Not speaking of the obvious, placement of the axles, etc.. but the internal changes (meaning metallurgical changes) when things are cut and bolted/welded together.

There is a big difference between a frame that is new and one that has 300K on the frame. Fatigue plays a major role in road worthiness and safety but over looked a lot. Frames with even with 50K that have been abused (overloaded, accident etc..) can pose a safety risk if any frame work is not done properly. I am told that a truck frame is one of the most intense engineered pieces of a truck which is all done to combat fatigue and guarantee safety under rated loads. According to FL engineers, there is even a metal content difference among certain frames to counteract different load stress on frames.

If it was like the old days, you would have one, maybe two engineers who designed the frame and it was tested with 50K miles then put into production. But times have changed. There are whole teams that work on a single frame and test it under strict standards, (like quality standards: ISO 9000:2000, SAE to mention a couple).

Point two
Using a shop to stretch the frame, be it a reputable frame shop or a custom truck company, is important to the quality of the work and the safety of you and anyone around you. Properly equipment and trained personal are critical, like the neat laser alignment table I saw last year to a certified welder all play a part. Frame alignment is the second most critical part and any work in the frame that alters it must be checked and kept within tolerances that the manufacture sets.

Good reputable shops will help you with your questions, concerns and problems without making you feel like a dummy. Ask dealers or FL or KW or any manufacture to recommend a shop to do the work. Don’t just go to one, but check out a couple and research the shop and ask for referrals.

Point three
There is a possible liability factor involved which is too complex to explain here in detail but I want to say something about it. I always look at my liabilities when making decisions like these.

Using a shop limits your liabilities and allows you to have some legal recourse just in case. My insurance agent (and lawyer and even the people at FL) told me that even though someone did the work for you, you are the one that can be sued for an accident if there was a defect in your truck as a result from stretching the frame.

You must do due diligence when having the work done to limit your liabilities. Not having a shop do the work is asking for trouble.

Again sorry for the long winded post

Good luck
 

davekc

Senior Moderator
Staff member
Fleet Owner
RE: New Guy with Class 8 Straight truck Please HEL

Greg334 has a excellent post.
One needs to know as much as the people doing the work.
So many people go down this path without the experience and proper knowledge, and bad things happen.
As mentioned, you have to find the right people in addition to having the right equipment for this to work correctly.
Usually not a cheap process.

My concern with this post is the indicated cost.

To buy a 2000 tractor, stretch it, and add a new or used box seems difficult at a final price tag of $25,000.
I think it will be considerably higher than that number

Just an observation

Davekc
 

Tennesseahawk

Veteran Expediter
RE: New Guy with Class 8 Straight truck Please HEL

Greg334... If you don't end up taking the truck, plz let me know. I'm in the market for a good argosy and live right down the street from you (practically).
 

JCarr283

Expert Expediter
RE: New Guy with Class 8 Straight truck Please HEL

Thanks for all the input people. I appreciate it. As to the frame stretching for $2500, this was a quote from an actual big truck dealer, he said $2000-$3000 depending on how long and how many frame rails he had to add and such. They have done many off these trucks before and I am confidant in their abilities. As to the Questionable cost involved, had quotes from the two leading van body builders in my area and they both have used 22-24' boxes from $3,000 and up, and brand new units, (with fork lift package, translucent roof, oak floor, 3 rows of e-track and swing doors) for around $10-$11k. I have found several tractors ranging from 1998-2001 with 400-550K miles(double bunk condos) for $13k-$20k and my having cash to waive in their face makes me confidant that I can haggle them down considerably.
On Another point does anyone have a more firm answer regarding the tag axle vs.. tandem topic? I know installing a tag wont be cheap, and I am aware of the high cost of tires. But saving the cost of adding a tag seems good to start out with, also being able to deck loads and get loaded heavy is appealing. Any further input again appreciated!
 

Tennesseahawk

Veteran Expediter
RE: New Guy with Class 8 Straight truck Please HEL

How much would a tag axle be compared to tandem? Did they price that?

You may want to reconcider the lift gate, unless you plan on going into specialized freight such as white glove. Experience with someone who had one was that customers see you have it, then expect that it comes with the service. They don't realize it costs money to run. Also, certain dock-locks don't work with lift gates, so some customers refuse trucks with them (many big 3 factories).

If you're going to invest in a class 8, I recommend something newer than a 2000. Try to get one with 300-400k and some warrantee still left. If you have the money, use it with something that'll last 5-7 years. Personally, I would look for a 2003 t-600 if I wanted just a 20-24' box. But the argosy with a 30' box is the way to go if you want a better chance of finding E freight.
 

JCarr283

Expert Expediter
RE: New Guy with Class 8 Straight truck Please HEL

Thanks for the advice. I have never been in a Argosy but I have spent many days in a International Cab-Over, and I hated it, they rode terrible and the sleeper set-up is deplorable. I couldn't even imagin running a team in one. maybe the Argosy is a vast improvment but I Strongly prefer a conventional tractor. As to your inquiry regarding a quote on a tag-axle installation, no I have not looked into it at all. I thought having tandems with fresh tires would be a more affordable choice to start with. And as to the idea of getting an even newer tractor, well that is simply out of my current plan. I Feel the key to keeping "afloat" in the beginning is to have as few expenses as possible so financing a Tractor isn't an option for me. I only have about $25k to start off with so I'll get the best truck I can and a good used box. I'd much rather be in debt to myself and still pay all my bills and expences vs. owe a bank and hopefully just scrape by if times get rough.
 

Tennesseahawk

Veteran Expediter
RE: New Guy with Class 8 Straight truck Please HEL

You may be better off financing, at least partially. Experience shows that there will be costs above and beyond what you're expecting, so having a little cash reserve helps alot. Also, depending which company you go with, you'll need a few thousand to several thousand to start out with.

Also, getting an older truck means to prepare for something major to go wrong soon after you set out. With me, it was a transmission and clutch about 3 months after I got the truck.

If you can put half down and have the bank finance the rest, do it. Definitely have some cash in your pocket.
 

JCarr283

Expert Expediter
RE: New Guy with Class 8 Straight truck Please HEL

Well that's defiantly something to consider. Unfortunately my credit is not good, so financing is a distant possibility even with such a substantial down payment. I am apprehensive of the possible break-downs and un-expected maintenance as well. The Co. I'm most interested in signing with says no out of pocket money to start-up with. But like most places they want an escrow out of your first few settlements. In all Honesty how much cash reserve should I be prepared to keep when starting out? I had not thought I needed several thousand. I was planning on about 2K until my first couple settlements. Then I'll have much more to keep since I wont have a $400-600 a week payment on the truck.
 

Tennesseahawk

Veteran Expediter
RE: New Guy with Class 8 Straight truck Please HEL

If you're going with a company that has no start-up costs and gives a percentage on p/u or delivery, I would have a couple of thousand in pocket.

$25,000 isn't alot of money to build a truck with... especially a class 8. Maybe you should look for one already built. You'll be kicking yourself if something breaks soon after putting it together, and you have no money to fix it.

I know I'm being repetative, but it downright sux to have it happen. Ask Raceman... it's easy to lose your nest egg when a truck (or the driver of that truck) decides to crap.
 

X1_SRH

Expert Expediter
RE: New Guy with Class 8 Straight truck Please HEL

T-Hawk is dead right.

Whenever you are starting any kind of business you need capital. Things can and will go wrong, and you WILL need cash reserves. This is a good rule of thumb whether you are getting into expediting or starting an ice cream shop.... Plan for that rainy day.

Best of luck - Scott
 

plumcrazy8

Expert Expediter
RE: New Guy with Class 8 Straight truck Please HEL

Back to the tandem vs liftable tag, I've had them both in class 8 straight trucks.

The tandem (hopefully you mean twin screw - don't mess with a non-drive second axle you can't lift!) is more expensive for tolls but not much, winter traction is a BIG bonus, tire wear is not much of a consideration as if it is kept in alignment you will get over 400,000 miles on them, the ride is less squirrely on the off-camber wallowy roads and does track better on snow (I keep thinking of my ride on US-30 in PA during a snow storm - don't even go there without a twin screw!). Oh, and with the extra axle you have more shock absorbers in play and on a straight truck that really helps.

The liftable tag, if put ahead of the rear drive axle, can be a real lifesaver for a front-heavy load (and this WILL happen on a class 8 due to their nose heavy tendencies), is cheaper on the tolls, and the possiblility of that extra screw going out on a twin screw is out of your mind.

My opinion on a used class 8 would be to find a single axle and add an air tag, only because of the possible repair bill of that extra drive axle on a used truck. New one - definitely go with a twin screw.

I have noticed no difference between the two setups in fuel useage.

One more thought. If you buy from a dealer check out the exptended warranty usually offered if the truck has less than 500,000 miles on the clock. Mine was $2,000.00 for an additional 250,000 miles and that price included a dyno test (required by the warranty people).

Good luck to you, that Argosy sounds interesting.
 

Tennesseahawk

Veteran Expediter
RE: New Guy with Class 8 Straight truck Please HEL

I saw that, thanx. 26'er is close to ideal. Price is on the high side tho.
 

ATeam

Senior Member
Retired Expediter
RE: New Guy with Class 8 Straight truck Please HEL

>3. Am I better off with tandems or a single axle then pay to
>add tag axle?

We've driven a tandem-axle D-unit and 3 single-drive-axle rigs with lift axles. All were Freigthliner Century Class trucks in the year 2000-2001 range. BY FAR, the smoother ride was inthe tandem-axle truck. To make your decision you need to consider the cost of a lift axle installation v. a twin-screw stretch, tire and axle maintenance costs over the life of the truck, etc. A toll analysis should also be done for the states you will drive in most. Some states charge by axle, some by weight, some by truck class defined by states - which vary by states.

Quantifiable results (axle cost, maintenance cost, tire cost, toll cost, etc) are easy to weigh one against the other. Then consider the non-quantifiable benefits as well, like the smooth ride, better traction, availability of a power interlock, ride stability, and more.

Also note that lift axles are not without their liabilities. The small clearance between the ground and the tires on a raised lift axle means the tires can be damaged even when up, by a sudden impact with a speed bump, sharp railroad grade, etc. The accidental lowering of a lift axle at high speeds can also damage the tires, as can improper pressure on the lift axle. You can smoke tires pretty good and flat spot them if they are lightly weighted in relation to the drive axle.

My personal preference: Tandems.
 
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