In-Box Sleepers

[SKIDROCK]

I'm building a small sleeper inside my box and I'm wondering if anyone knows how to connect the cab to the sleeper? I'm wondering how big of a hole I would need and where I can get a boot. I know this is a trend of the past, but I'm an owner-operator with my own authority, and I won't get any crap from anyone! My truck is a 2003 Sterling Acterra daycab with a 26' Morgan box!

Any advice would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks,
Jordan

 

[Humble2drive]

Just a thought in case you don't get any good answers on here.

When I used to drive for North American most agencies had at least one of these straight truck set ups with a box sleeper. They were used for short overnight jobs and I don't know if they were DOT approved. It wouldn't hurt to drive by a few of your local moving agencies and see if they have one so you can take a look.

Very few if any expediters are going to have one because of DOT regulations and Hazmat.

 

[redytrk]

I would give BENTZ a call. They can supply/install the boot. They would also be able to advise what would be required if you intend to use the sleeper to comply with DOT sleeper regs. Must be legal sleeper to use the sleeper berth line on your logs.

Bentz Transport Products Inc.-Home Page

 

[greg334]

Get your green book out and read about sleepers before you do anything. Plan to follow the regs to the letter and then call your insurance company to find out if they have any objections.

You will not be allowed to haul some types of hazmat, if you haul any now. Some DOT officers will put the truck out of service if there is no gap between the sleeper and the box.

The boot is one part, you need to make a place for the gasket (boot) to sit on, which has to be mounted on top of a another gasket and sealed on both the cab and box.

You will have to build a bulkhead within the sleeper, it can't be a simple 1/2 inch piece of plywood but a strong bulkhead that will stop the freight getting into the cab.

 

[layoutshooter]

Sounds like real work to me.

 

[guido4475]

I did the same thing to my t-300 with a 26' box. it cost me a grand and took me a week.it was sweet, alot better constructed and insulated than the crap that is out here now.it had a separate entrance/screen door on the right front corner,windows on the left wall.the opening has to be at least 36" square.i used 4x4's set on 12" centers insulated with 3/4 plywood for the floor.walls were 2x4's on 12" centers,heavily insulated, lag-bolted to the floor.i ran romex just like in the house, with outlets and ceiling lights, etc for use with the generator.i also ran the wiring off of the batteries for lights and things like that for going down the road.the sleeper boot, i took the rear window out of the t-300 and extended that opening down to a total of 36 inches.then i cut the front box wall on the same location to match that of the cab.i cant remember where i got the rubbre from, but i made 2 metal frames that went around the perimiter of the opening and screwed it to the walls after applying liquid nails to everything.the interior got covered over with rubber-backed carpet runner from home depot, and framed in for the finish. i made sure NOT to make the cab/sleeper join together firmly because they flex between each other.it is the quietest and warmest/coolest sleeper i have ever had.my freind did the same thing, only making his 10 feet out of a 30 foot box.they are still both on the road, after 5 years, and no leaks.i will do this again, in the future.

 

[greg334]

i ran romex just like in the house

Sorry guido, but I caution anyone using solid wire in any vehicle application. I already had one fire because my sleeper manufacturer used 14/3 and another near fire because they didn't debur the holes int he frame which showed the cheapness of their 'engineering'. When it was presented to them, they blew me off as I was some nut. After doing a lot of vehicle electronic installs from radios/amplifiers to lighting, I have to say that 14/3 stranded wire is the right way to go, Lowes/HD or any west marine has it cheap enough.

 

[guido4475]

Even though the wires (romex) was only hot when I was parked with either the shore power or generator going through it, I understand what you are saying.I appreciatte that. So far, no fires or anything. But I willl warn everybody of the possible risk.

 

[greg334]

Guido,
The reason you don't use Romex is because it is a solid wire, but if your wire is getting warm using either shore power or a generator, then there is something else wrong - Size, heavy load, etc...

The standard is stranded wire in vehicles, boats and planes for a reason - it holds up to the vibration. Solid wire fatigues and breaks, even if you install it by tying it down. My problem here in the sleeper was the wire vibrated enough to break inside the plastic and was arching, causing it to burn. The other problem was the sleeper manufacturer used poor workmanship and didn't debur the holes, they just drilled them and stuck the wire through the hole and that was it - I seen this on a sleeper that was made in 2005 from them. The bur cut into the wire causing it to short out.

 

[guido4475]

What I meant by "hot" was current going through them.But I appreciate and understand what you are saying, and it makes sense.I will do it the way you suggested next time. I also had a sleeper with the same wiring issues.Holes drilled into the steel,and a wire going through the hole, not protected, no grommet.Same problems.shorting out because of a wire rubbing the bare metal.