If I owned a Sprinter I could record operating hours by circling rust spots with a Magic Marker. Nickle size rust spots = 5 hrs., dime size rust spots 10 hrs. etc.
Those rust spots are signs of maturity...also many DOLLAS..
If I owned a Sprinter I could record operating hours by circling rust spots with a Magic Marker. Nickle size rust spots = 5 hrs., dime size rust spots 10 hrs. etc.
I seen a guy in laredo with a box truck ...he drilled a hole in the top of the trucks tank...and ran a fuel line to the back of the truck....then had a quick connect of sorts to hook into his Honda 2000i.. he had a primer ball @ the end of it ...I was told they DO have a fuel.pump?..where are you planning on mounting the gen.???
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Here's how to hook up two Honda generators to one external tank. The principle of hooking one Honda genertor to an external tank, or a vehicle's fuel tank, is exactly the same.
I seen a guy in laredo with a box truck ...he drilled a hole in the top of the trucks tank...and ran a fuel line to the back of the truck....then had a quick connect of sorts to hook into his Honda 2000i.. he had a primer ball @ the end of it ...I was told they DO have a fuel.pump?..where are you planning on mounting the gen.???
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This may be the best way to do it, but it's not exactly what I'm wanting to do. I would like to actually bypass the honda's existing fuel tank and just feed straight from the van tank to the fuel intake line of the generator.
Below is the concept I have in mind (thanks to Dennis). I just don't know the exact details of how he had it set up. The one thing I would question about doing it is whether or not that fuel pump would hold up to a consistent "lift" load. It's obviously built to pump gravity fed fuel to the fuel inlet.
Why would you want to bypass the existing tank????
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Ok, 1st keep in mind that ALOT of the newgererators (not sure about the honda, but the honeywell is) are CARD compliant. What that does in make the fuel system a "closed loop" with a vent to a evaporator canister....bypassing the gravity tank on the generator would open the closed loop and probably flood the evaporator canister causing gas to run out on the ground...
I am thinking Asj seen the same guy i spent a few hours with figuring this out (brown and gold gmc cube van) and his final connection to the generatop was thru the cap if I remember like the article Turtle posted about....
With the fuel pump, I would "T" the fuel line from the factory tank just before the fuel pump..that would then lessen any added demand on the fuel pump and I,d bet keep the factory tank filled also....
Like i said, i am not sure about the honda other then they are darn good units, but i do know how to flood the evaporater canister on the Honeywell...been there done that...trial and error...
Never pass up an opportunity to complicate the simple.Why would you want to bypass the existing tank??
Not if you had the brilliant foresight to wax your Sprinter very early in ownership with Turtle Wax liquid clay and Turtle Wax ICE. Hard to find rust spots on mine.If I owned a Sprinter I could record operating hours by circling rust spots with a Magic Marker. Nickle size rust spots = 5 hrs., dime size rust spots 10 hrs. etc.
Not if you had the brilliant foresight to wax your Sprinter very early in ownership with Turtle Wax liquid clay and Turtle Wax ICE. Hard to find rust spots on mine.
Also keep in mind a Honda Fuel pump is the size of a hockey puck...REAL small....not a lot of pumping power...Wow... live and learn. I had NOT considered any of that! That's why It's good to have an open forum of discussion on this stuff. Ok...so maybe there was a fly in my ointment...it was just a small fly I'll get it out...well maybe!
Ok, 1st keep in mind that ALOT of the newgererators (not sure about the honda, but the honeywell is) are CARD compliant. What that does in make the fuel system a "closed loop" with a vent to a evaporator canister....bypassing the gravity tank on the generator would open the closed loop and probably flood the evaporator canister causing gas to run out on the ground...
I am thinking Asj seen the same guy i spent a few hours with figuring this out (brown and gold gmc cube van) and his final connection to the generatop was thru the cap if I remember like the article Turtle posted about....
With the fuel pump, I would "T" the fuel line from the factory tank just before the fuel pump..that would then lessen any added demand on the fuel pump and I,d bet keep the factory tank filled also....
Like i said, i am not sure about the honda other then they are darn good units, but i do know how to flood the evaporater canister on the Honeywell...been there done that...trial and error...
Yup.....same guy....pretty kewl setup..
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Also keep in mind a Honda Fuel pump is the size of a hockey puck...REAL small....not a lot of pumping power...
So...both of you talked to this guy and looked at his set up and we don't have a single picture..not even a list of parts needed?
I'm thinking it's gotta be pretty simple. I haven't even bought the generator yet. I would like to have a decent idea of what I want to do before I purchase anything. It's sounding like this will be doable in some fashion, so I'll probably go ahead and get one. I like this setup the best.