engine starting procedure

LDB · Sep 4, 2006

Ok, how do you start your engine? I don't mean just the turn the key part. I turn off the a/c so that load isn't on it. I turn the key to the on position and wait for the 5 dings of whatever that bell is that sounds like the seatbelt reminder on a car. During that time there are also some relays that click a few times. After that 3-4 seconds I push in the clutch and then turn the key to start the engine. I don't know for certain that's best but it's how I do it. Opinions? Variations?

Leo Bricker, 73's K5LDB, OOIDA 677319
Owner, Panther trucks 5507, 5508, 5509
Highway Watch Participant, Truckerbuddy
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ATeam · Sep 4, 2006

Wow! Do you mean to say Diane does not have to get out and push?

rode2rouen · Sep 4, 2006

It's a good idea to wait those few seconds when you turn the key to the "RUN" position as this is when the ECM does it's self-test sequence. You should notice the warning lights activate in the instrument cluster and on some trucks the gauges will sweep their full range (less than full sweep is an indication of a problem). You will also hear the ABS solenoids activate (that's the clicking Leo refers to).

Starting the engine with the A/C engaged is no biggie, if you'd rather not, that's cool.

Rex

davekc · Sep 4, 2006

Rex is correct. Additionally, on our KW the chimes will last alittle longer when its real cold because it has activated the pre-heat.

Davekc
owner
22 years
PantherII
EO moderator

RichM · Sep 4, 2006

I have a Cummins mechanical engine. I would just put the clutch in and turn the key. Let it idle at low revs for a while and when the oil pressure would start to decrease then take off.I have never understood why some ppl including engine mechanics start the engine then race the hell out of it ,while it's cold to build up the air pressure. Seems to me with the oil cold a lot more wear and tear would occur.

Deville · Sep 8, 2006

I always wait for the glow plug light to go out, no matter if the engine is cold or warm, Thats how I was taught. Also never start with the A/C on, only because ive noticed on my truck it takes the Alternator loknger to reach proper charging levels usally around 13.8 14.2 volts

I'm not sure maybe its diffrent for c-8 motors, but ive seen my freind who owns a few tractors start his Fl in 30 degree weather in the morning without waiting for the glow plug, its started right up, i know on the trucks ive owned they will usually start on the 1st key turn, but the glow plugs pull a lot of volts from the battery and take longer to crank.

greg334 · Sep 8, 2006

put key in ignition

turn key to on position

wait for "wait to start" light to go out

turn key to start position

hold until engine starts

let go of key

watch oil pressure

A/C on or off?
It don't matter because the A/C at lower speeds take less HP and the drag on the engine maybe noticable but not detrimental - I am wondering about this with the newer trucks. In many of the newer trucks the ECM controls the A/C and some will not engage the A/C clutch for X amount of seconds so the engine can becoe more stable for emissions.

LDB · Sep 8, 2006

Mine does not have a glowplug light or wait to start light or anything of that nature so I use the relays and chimes as my wait signals. That takes maybe 5 seconds. I turn the a/c controls off and wait for the oil pressure to come up before turning them on on the theory by then the engine is ready for the extra drag. I figure my a/c procedure may not be helping but definitely can't hurt.

My other area of question is pushing the clutch in before starting. I don't really know what value that may have but it's another that just seems to me like it can't hurt anything. Not being mechanical at all it may exponentially hasten catastrophic failure for all I know but until I learn differently or can't push it to the floor or it snaps up and breaks my leg or the engine falls out on the ground I guess I'll keep doing it this way.

Leo Bricker, 73's K5LDB, OOIDA 677319
Owner, Panther trucks 5507, 5508, 5509
Highway Watch Participant, Truckerbuddy
EO Forum Moderator
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Support the entire Constitution, not just the parts you like.

greg334 · Sep 8, 2006

>My other area of question is pushing the clutch in before
>starting. I don't really know what value that may have but
>it's another that just seems to me like it can't hurt
>anything. Not being mechanical at all it may exponentially
>hasten catastrophic failure for all I know but until I learn
>differently or can't push it to the floor or it snaps up and
>breaks my leg or the engine falls out on the ground I guess
>I'll keep doing it this way.

Leo,
If it is cold out, say 30 degrees, the trans fluid is thick and unloading the engine through the clutch will help it a lot more than the a/c being off.

Deville · Sep 9, 2006

>
>Leo,
>If it is cold out, say 30 degrees, the trans fluid is thick
>and unloading the engine through the clutch will help it a
>lot more than the a/c being off.

so is it a good idea to push the cluth in during the winter months pior to starting?

RichM · Sep 9, 2006

I think it's a good idea to push the clutch in when starting period. If the clutch is left engaged even in neutral, your starter will have to use more amps and work harder because it's turning the transmission.

ATeam · Sep 10, 2006

Interesting reading in this thread. Good tips to take to heart. One thing that has not come up is the other side of starting; namely, stopping the engine.

A couple years ago, at the Louisville truck show, Volvo had on display a disassembled engine that had over 1,000,000 miles on it. The engineers and sales reps from Volvo Power were on hand to talk it up. I asked one of them what I'd have to do to have my Volvo engine looking that good after a million miles. His answer was mostly to read the manual and follow the directions.

Then he threw in something else. He said to let the engine idle for a few minutes before turning it off. He said that will equalize any hot spots that developed in the engine and help provide a more-uniform cooldown, stressing the engine less.

Adopting this practice, we have seen no noticable difference in the temperature guage on the dash. Actually, I'm quite amazed at how little that guage changes after the engine is warmed up. Mountain climbing on a hot day will raise the engine temp. But beyond that, engine temp holds rock steady at all speeds, loads, and outside temps. Nevertheless, we usually idle the engine for three to five minutes before shutting it down, espeically when comming in off highway speeds.

greg334 · Sep 10, 2006

Phil,

that is good advice, but I am surprised that many don't know about it. The other reason you idle the truck (for that matter any turbo engined vehicle) is to give the turbo oil under no load conditions to cool it down. The bearings can get coked up and sometimes seals fail.

The other thing that comes to mind is not to use the temp gauge but your pyrometer (if you have one) to bring the exhaust temps down to a low number. this helps with the turbo and other things.

RichM · Sep 10, 2006

I would always let it idle at least 10 minutes for turbo cooldown. If you have been running hard 3-5minutes really isn't enough.

Broompilot · Sep 11, 2006

Never race any engine especially a Diesel when its cold. These engines should warm in the summer 3 minutes before touching the accelerator, 5 minutes in the winter.

Now shutting it down, did you know its suggested to let the engine cool for 5 minutes after running on the highway, just idle it and it will cool the turbo otherwise you could do damage to the turbo by it cooling to fast and the fast cooling of the metal could cause it to crack.