$#&*^% DARN IT!!!!

[layoutshooter]

I give up. I stopped for a oil change at the Speedco in Wytheville VA. I have a load on the truck that does not deliver until Tues at 9am. Figured this was a good time to do it. WRONG!!! When they tried to tourqe on the drain plug it stripped and will no longer stay in the oil pan, it's Sat on a holiday weekend and there are no parts shops open. They claim they did not do it that it must have been stripped at Alumibunk when they serviced it. I KNOW what Alumibunk will say.

I have gave up on the load and dispatch is lookin for a truck to take it, IF the customer will let us break the seal.

Talked with Detroit Diesel, they say the best thing is to replace the oil pan. This requires dropping the front axle. True? Can it be re-tapped and a new insert/plug put in?

Anyone else go through this one? It is a 2005 MBE4000 450hp in a 2006 Frieghliner M112 with only 161500 mi on it. What a rip. Aluminum MIGHT not be the best thing to make oil pans out of.

Layoutshooter

 

[terryandrene]

I had the identical thing happen to me and my Ford E-350 Diesel van at a Jiffy Lube. The Station manager came to me and said that they couldn't put oil in the van because the plug hole threads were stripped and they had no plugs larger than the one they removed from the pan. Fortunately, I had a temp plug in the tool box. It was an expandable rubber plug I had bought at a parts store. It's use was enough to get me to repair shop where a piece of flat stock was welded over the stripped hole and retapped for a new plug.

Jiffy Lube picked up the tab, thanx to all of my changes being performed by the JL guys. The replacement of an oil pan on my 1996 Ford would have been almost $2000, because the engine would have to have been lifted to allow the pan to clear the I beam over which it was mounted.

 

[layoutshooter]

I will look in the TA for such a thing, but I somehow doubt it. Maybe a transom plug for a boat might work. I will have to call a cab tomorrow and see if I can get to a Wally World to see what I can find. I am TOO tired and TOO fed up to try it tonight. Layoutshooter

 

[layoutshooter]

Has anyone ever used a product called thread repair by Permatex? It is a 2 part epoxy and a release agent. It mentions oil pan drain holes as one of the things is fixes. Anyone? Layoutshooter

 

[greg334]

I heard of it but never used it so I can't say good or bad.

I would say that speedco owes you an oil pan and installation of it by a qualified DD mechanic. I would not go any other way except the correct way to fix it. the bung idea is ok for small holes where the pressure on the plug is not that great but then you run into the amount of pressure on the plug by the oil and then add any issues with blowby and a closed system you take too much of a chance.

I can't understand how anyone can strip out the threads of any oil pan but again, no offense speedco fans but it is not the shuttle that they hire these guys to work on and many just don't care. It is too simple to put the thing in the right way.

 

[Time Out]

As a last resort, if there is any threads left at all on the drain plug... wrap the threads with teflon tape to hold the plug in the pan and use JB Weld to adhere the plug to the pan. I have also used a product called "The Right Stuff" by permatex which is an extremely good black silcone that may work. Not sure if wally world will have it. I bought it at the Advance store. Wally world will have the J B Weld. Maybe it will hold you until you can get it fixed.

Also, there is a garage off of 77 in Hillsville that has road service. I think that it is called Burke's. I have a friend that used them a short while back and was pleased with them. You also have a KW
dealer at 77 and 460(Worldwide). There is a Western Branch (Detroit Diesel) and Freightliner dealer (Va. Truck Ctr.) in Roanoke.

 

[layoutshooter]

They said it was not their fault and will not fix it. I watched them try to torqe it but I did not see them put it in. All I know is that it was not leaking when I took it in and I cannot run at all now. Has anyone tried the Fumoto quick drain valves? Layoutshooter

 

[layoutshooter]

I like the JB Weld idea, I will try it a first light. The threads have been wrapped with teflon tape already. It drips only a drop every couple of minutes. How hard is it to get the JB stuff off once it is on? Layoutshooter

 

[TeamCaffee]

Could they not re tap the hole and then put a valve in it instead of a plug? If this would work you should be able to get everything you need at a AutoZone or something similar to a AutoZone. If you do this be sure and flush the oil pan to get any shavings out.

 

[layoutshooter]

I just love this forum, I ALWAYS get such great ideas!!! Not sure Bob, no one here will even look at it until Tuesday. That is why I am looking for a temp fix to get me up the road. FedEx is havnig trouble finding anyone to take this and they are not sure if the customer will let them break the seal. If I can keep the plug in place I can deliver the load and then get it looked at. I just don't want to blow up an engine. Layoutshooter

 

[Time Out]

The J B will set up hard. So, do not put it where you don't want it. You will more than likely have to cut or grind it out. You might consider using a hole saw to cut the plug back out then welding an aluminum coupling to the pan and inserting a new plug. Being sure to remove All shavings. Good Luck.

 

[layoutshooter]

I need all the good luck I can get, things have NOT been at their best lately. Layoutshooter

 

[ATeam]

Which Speedco store was it that did not over-tighten your drain plug?

OOPS...Never mind. Re-read the post to find out.

 

[layoutshooter]

LOL, come on PHil!!! It's my night to do things like that!!! Wytheville, VA. Got it? HEHEHE. Ya have to laugh or go nuts!!! Layoutshooter

 

[greg334]

layoutshooter,
It don't matter what they say, it didn't come in there with the drain plug leaking or falling out, did it? They accepted the responsibility of the truck the second they had you pull into the bay.

They have an obligaiton not to screw up the equipment they work on and they are supposed to be trained to see issues like that before they happen. If you drove the thing in to the bay, they are to make sure that everything is the same when it leaves. I would say start with finding out who worked on the truck, document everything including who you talked to and when and bring this to the people who run Speedco.

Fumoto is a good way to go but they will seep if there is no real way to bring the plug to the near full torque.

I would not plug the thing except to get it unloaded. I would not have anyone else work on it except a mechanic you trust or a DD service center.

 

[layoutshooter]

I have their sheet that they gave me there. I will most likely have to get a lawyer on it. Who knows if that will be worth the cost and effort and time.

I am going to try to plug it in the morning, like you say, just to hold it to get this load off. There is a DD service center 20 miles from my drop off. I can run there first thing Tues after I unload. Assuming of course that the ideas work.

I am going to go to bed and try to sleep. I just know that in the mornin I will wake up and find out this was just a nightmare or at least log onto the the forum and find someone has the exact fix for me and it only costs $16.94. Either way I guess I am dreaming.

Layoutshooter

 

[Time Out]

Do you have any idea what the diameter of the drain plug is?

 

[greg334]

>Do you have any idea what the diameter of the drain plug is?

Not sure if it is A 22mm-1.5 or 26mm-1.5

 

[RichM]

Layout Shooter I sent you a PM that might help.

 

[Time Out]

If my calculation is correct, 22 mm is equal to .86614 inches and 26mm is equal to 1.0236 inches. The boat transom plug that I have here should work for either of them.