Allison automatic

[BobWolf]

I'm, running an older truck with a 2000 series but the pan on any trans is only a small amount. I did a spin on, pan filter and refill and that took almost 4 gallons. that doesn't count the cooler and lines. 28 qts sounds about right for the trans, and cooler. In fact I think my fluid and filter
swap took almost 5 gallons when it was all said and done.

3000/4000 series are different animals I do know there are 2 internal cartridge filters. The 3000/4000 are beefier and larger.

FYI don't fall for the transmission flush this is a popular gimmick started by the quick lube shops and wont go away along with the engine oil flush sludge removers and other mechanic in a can products. If the fluid is clear no metal or clutch material, and not burned fluid and filters are the only thing you need. Metal, sludge, and clutch material means the trans needs to be torn down and rebuilt. The transmission and engine flushes them selves anytime the engine runs, axles as you drive.

With that said I do recommend having the cooler solvent flushed and having the cooler lines inspected or better yet replace the lines and if the cooler is old damaged, plugged or worn as the lines can break down from the inside out and plug the cooler and raise havoc with the trans.
Also only use Allison filters and Transynd fluid. No, its not cheap but its cheaper than the trans grenading on you, paying for the wrecker, transmission swap, new cooler and lines.

Bob Wolf

 

[Greg]

I second the Allison filter and Transynd fluid. I got over 900,000 trouble free miles out of an Allison 3060p transmission with regular fluid and filter changes. And it was still running strong when I sold the truck..

 

[RETIDEPXE]

My 3000HS now has 1,444,000 miles, never cracked open. Shifts better then new, some slush box noises in the lower gears but has done that for about 400,000 mi.s now.

New problem tho, but I'm blaming the ABS;
At a steady cruise hwy speeds it will start to slip in and out of gear with the slightest hill or vacuum when a big trk passes in the hammer lane. Let off and it will go back in gear. It will come and go for about 5 minutes like this, then the ABS lite comes on steady and the trans works as normal. ABS lite has been off and on the past few days before the trans issue. I know the ABS ECU and the trans ECU communicate with each other. Anybody have any ideas before I crawl into the wasp nest of AMU's and ABS wires?

 

[RETIDEPXE]

Follow up, finally found my ABS problem, 2007 FL M2106.

Here's what I had to start;
ABS 136 SID 3 FAIL 05 (CURRENT BELOW NORMAL OR OPEN CIRCUIT) 3 5 LR wheel sensor circuit open
BULK HEAD MODULE HAS “B1P ABS IGNITION” ONLY
The ABS ECU is located behind driver's side kick panel.


Here's what I did;
I replaced the LR wheel sensor, same SID 3 FAIL 05. Switched left and right rear sensor plugs, showed same. This tells me it is not the sensor. If the problem showed Right Rr fail, then it would have been a sensor.

The Rr sensor wires are 2 pairs of brwn and tan twisted, and run to the ABS ECU. Using a battery tender and test lite, I knew I had a broken wire. Probed the pairs and narrowed it down to where the dreaded green spot was, actually was quite happy to see the green! (Important; be sure and seal your probes w/ liquid electrical tape, which if it had been done when this ABS wire was probed, I wouldn't have had this problem i.e. Freightliner dealer in Texarkana).

So, trans is shifting fine and ABS is fixed without a visit to the dealer. Score!

Photo of ABS ECU at kick panel