08 ud w/j08 engine

[towmater]

Had a check engine light come on no loss of power. The next time we started it there was no light and has not come back on but had it scaned.

Has 3 inactive codes.
P0045 vtn trouble
P0093 fuel omission
P0102 air flow sensor condition abnormal
I'm is seattle and the air sucks here from all the fires I don't know if that has anything to do with it.

Then last night got dpf light it just hit 200k miles but is that something I need to get done asap we do mostly hwy miles and have only had to do 2 manual regens on it scents new.

 

[towmater]

Anyone have any clue what any of these code mean.

 

[Ragman]

Anyone have any clue what any of these code mean.

P Codes – TroubleCodes.net

Hope this helps until greasytshirt or Hino123 comes along.

 

[Hino123]

P0045 is usually a turbo VNT controler issue, 90% of the time I see this code I end up replacing the complete turbo.
P0093 Is high fuel pressure, the common rail pressure sensor had detected high rail pressure. I would replace the fuel filter, and inspect the wiring to the SCV, Remove the connector and make sure the pins look good, perform a once over of the fuel system, tanks, vent etc. If the SCV gets unplugged or hangs, it sends full pump pressure into the rail. The fuel pressure overflow valve will open and relieve the rail pressure if it gets too high. In my experience the overflow valve likes to hang open once it has been released. It is not uncommon to see a p0087 (low fuel pressure) in conjunction with a p0093 or p0088 (high pressure)
The P0102 is usually someone unplugging the MAF sensor with the key on.
The check dpr light is essentially a maint light. At 200k you ae supposed to check the diff pressure of the DPR, be sure it is les than .7psi. Here are my thoughts... Clear the codes, inspect the tilpipe for soot, if no soot and the truck is performing regens with no issues, re-set dpr check light. I would plan on the turbo needing to be replaced eventually, usually once that p0045 sets it only a matter of time before the turbo will have to be replaced. Unless you like driving 35 on the freeway. If you had acess to dealer software the repair plan would be different. To make your problems even worse its a UD so you have zero dealer support. Thats y two cents best of luck, let us know how you make out.

 

[towmater]

So get ready to get bent over is what your saying. The turbo is only 2 years old with about 70k miles on it and there is only 1 dealer within 1000 miles so they try to screew you any chance they get.

 

[Hino123]

What Im saying is, plan for some downtime and some "business expenses" if you dont have an issue going forward great, if you do at least you ate prepared. Hino recommends to lube both VNT rod ends at every PM. One on the turbo and one on the VNT. You can do this yourself and maybe get some life out if the turbo. They like to hang especially in the rust belt. You will need to get a can of spray antiseize. Permatex makes one Loctite and a few others. One rod pivot you can get at the top od the turbo, the other you will need to get from under the truck. Spray the linkage and then cycle the key 10 times to work in the lube.
I dont set parts prices, or build the parts. I just fix them. My advise is buy the turbo from a Hino dealer where you can get a warranty. My cost is roughly $2200 but over the counter they charge around $2700. Expect 4-5 hr labor for install on top of that . Depending how rusty it is. We charge $129 hr. Take both hands, and use them to grab your ankles.

 

[towmater]

Around here even to get it scaned it's drop it off and takes a few days (they don't do appointments). Ya I know grab my ankles we have 3 of these trucks a 05 07 and 08 between the 3 this will be turbo #6 in the last 10 years and 1,000,000 miles that's why I say get bent over I have been thru the song and dance before.

Also you are the first I have heard about lubeing the rod thanks.

Now I know I can rent tools for working on this and I think I can rent a scaner also but don't know it might be worth a try to clear the codes and see what comes back and reset the dpf.

 

[Hino123]

If this was a Hino I could walk you through how to reset the codes and the DPR maint light in the dash. This is a UD you are referring to correct?

 

[towmater]

Yes it is a a ud.

 

[towmater]

So still playing with this truck off and on was running perfect still had the dpf light on but no check engin light and last week it quit on us towed to the shop and has a bunch codes did a crank speed sensor got it running but runs like crap now. Pic of print out the shop gave us. The thing I don't get is how it can go from running driving perfect then a crank sensor goes bad and now needs pump and injecters still. It's back home now and still does not have a check engine light on, Makes no scents to me almost sounds like they just want to throw parts at it because they want to start with a pump they said. Any help as where to start if I'm going to do the work my self would be much appreciated.

 

[Hino123]

You have alot going on here, Im suspsisious if a few things. Pm me your email and phone number. I can send you a Hino JO8 engine book and we can take it from there.

 

[greasytshirt]

Do you know what P0088, P0087, P0182, P0335, and P0340 all have in common? They're all for sensors on the same branch of wiring harness. 335 and 340 are for crank and cam sensors. These rarely go bad. I've never replaced one. Same for fuel temp sensor, 182. Yes, they're shotgunning parts at it. A harness/circuit fault here will make the truck run like crap.

P0045 is for the VNT controller on the turbo. Also possible to be harness related. For all harness connections, make sure there are no bent pins, and even though it sounds dumb, make sure everything is plugged in all the way. Some of these connectors are hard to plug in, they click when they are fully seated.

Sent from my XT1585 using EO Forums mobile app

 

[towmater]

When you say harness/circuit fault what do you even mean by that. Also what are all the codes for so I even know what plugs to check. We are not driving it now because it was hard to start, then as it was warming up driving it, it was smoking. Stopped smoking after warm then died when we stopped at a light, started back up but when I hit the throttle it it comes up to about 900rpm then falls on its face then revs up.

 

[Hino123]

Do you know what P0088, P0087, P0182, P0335, and P0340 all have in common? They're all for sensors on the same branch of wiring harness. 335 and 340 are for crank and cam sensors. These rarely go bad. I've never replaced one. Same for fuel temp sensor, 182. Yes, they're shotgunning parts at it. A harness/circuit fault here will make the truck run like crap.


P0045 is for the VNT controller on the turbo. Also possible to be harness related. For all harness connections, make sure there are no bent pins, and even though it sounds dumb, make sure everything is plugged in all the way. Some of these connectors are hard to plug in, they click when they are fully seated.

Sent from my XT1585 using EO Forums mobile app

Exactly! Never seen a fuel temp sensor fault, cam and crank failure at same time is definetly wiring/power/ground issue. I like in the story they basiclly admit they threw a sensor at it. “ replaced crank sensor... truck started but had extended crank”
Towmater. Essentially your engine uses the cam and crank signals to tell the ecm how to manage fuel. If it does not know where TDC is or where the cylinders are it will not inject fuel at the correct time and will rin like crap. You may need a guel pump and injectors but that will Not fix your current issue. You need to be looking at the wires connectors and pins on the lh rear of the engine for damage. The fuel temp and scv connectors are on the fuel pump, cam and crank are at the back center of the engine follow the wires back to where they connect to the main harness (lh center area there is a connector 12-18 pin ish on the intake. Start there make sure it is tight and work your way down the harness to the sensors. Ill try to snap a pic of rhe connecor at work.

 

[towmater]

Would any of these codes be for either of the sensors in the fuel filter bowl.

 

[Hino123]

No that is a water in fuel sensor. I attempted to send you a pic of the connector but we dont have any 2005-2010 Hinos or UD’s. You are going to have to perform several wiring checks at various sensors. Checking for voltage and ground.

 

[towmater]

So after playing with everything for the last 2 months I now have a scaner from ud not cheap but it's mine and got it up and running today. So nothing has been touched scents the last post. Today I got a code for high pressure in the rail and low pressure in the rail looking thru everything it said could be caused by a bad scv and it also had a code for that. Witch looking at all the info for the scv it said could be caused by a crank scensor going bad witch was the first thing we did when this all started. But the codes were cleared after that so I don't know.

Then tried to clear the dpf light did a regen on it and tried to clear the light. After hitting reset tried to start it and would start for about 3-5 seconds then die did that 2 or 3 times then stayed running but not to we'll rpm's up and down. But the dpf light is still on so I started looking at the back pressure and it showed to be at I think it was 7.0 and it showed acceptable to be up to 12.0 so now I still have the dpf light and don't know what to do on that part.

As for the last time 1 of the trucks was idling like I did a scv and it fixed it. I'm hoping to play with it some more in the next week or so to check wiring connectors and go from there.

Unless anyone can point me elsewhere.

 

[greasytshirt]

So after playing with everything for the last 2 months I now have a scaner from ud not cheap but it's mine and got it up and running today. So nothing has been touched scents the last post. Today I got a code for high pressure in the rail and low pressure in the rail looking thru everything it said could be caused by a bad scv and it also had a code for that. Witch looking at all the info for the scv it said could be caused by a crank scensor going bad witch was the first thing we did when this all started. But the codes were cleared after that so I don't know.

Then tried to clear the dpf light did a regen on it and tried to clear the light. After hitting reset tried to start it and would start for about 3-5 seconds then die did that 2 or 3 times then stayed running but not to we'll rpm's up and down. But the dpf light is still on so I started looking at the back pressure and it showed to be at I think it was 7.0 and it showed acceptable to be up to 12.0 so now I still have the dpf light and don't know what to do on that part.

As for the last time 1 of the trucks was idling like I did a scv and it fixed it. I'm hoping to play with it some more in the next week or so to check wiring connectors and go from there.

Unless anyone can point me elsewhere.

It sounds like the exhaust brake setting is way too high.
You need to use data monitor to do this. Monitor engine speed, water temp, and injection quantity. Turn up the idler knob, or use the activation test menu to set the engine speed to 980 rpm. Warm up the engine. Turn off all electrical accessories and all lights. Turn the exhaust brake on and off, giving injection quantity time to stabilize.

Normal IQT at 980 is between 7-12. Turn the exhaust brake on and the IQT should rise. You are looking for a 12mm3 increase in injection quantity with the exhaust brake on. Important: There are two adjusters, you only adjust the one that the lever hits with the exhaust brake on.